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BURMA
By the Same Author
EGYPT
CONTAINING 75 FULL -PAGE
REPRODUCTIONS IN COLOUR
OF MR. Kelly's pictures
AG£NTS IN AMERICA
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York
> Ji
SHRfNE ON THE PLATFORM OF THE SHWE DAGON
PAGODA
BURMA
PAINTED & DESCRIBED
BY
R. TALBOT KELLY
R.B.A., r.R.G.S., COMMANDER OF THE MEDJIDIEH
LONDON
ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
1905
College
library
TO
MY FATHER AND MOTHER
HI r G'^ r* fro
Preface
Although it has been said that perhaps the best way
of acquiring information upon a subject is to write a
book about it, it was with extreme diffidence that I
ventured to undertake the production of a volume upon
Burma. I had never been in the country, and possessed
only the most superficial knowledge of its history or
geography, and I foresaw that the task would prove an
exacting one ; but, had I realised at the outset how
vast the country really is, how many difficulties of
various kinds would confront me, and the utter hope-
lessness of ever accomplishing a tithe of the obliga-
tions which such a country as Burma would inevitably
impose upon its delineator, I should hardly have dared
to assume the responsibility.
Now, however, that it is finished, I offer no apology
for my work. It has been my aim throughout to
approach my subject with an open mind, to find out the
country for myself and to depict it as it appears to the
eye of a stranger. This volume, therefore, is essentially
Burma
a book of " first impressions," for no one could hope to
dig deeply into such a mine of wealth as Burma is,
in the short seven months during which it was my
privilege to wander in the country.
The difficulties, moreover, under which I worked
were great : fatiguing journeys through forest and
jungle, climatic conditions most unkind to the painter,
difficulties of language and of health, and, supremest
difficulty of all, that of rightly appraising a strange
country and a strange people.
Such incidents and scenes as I describe, therefore,
are simply the more or less crude impressions I from
time to time received, influenced, doubtless, more or less
by the varying conditions under which I viewed them.
It would, however, have been quite impossible for
me to have accomplished one half of this present
volume but for the proverbial hospitality of the East ;
and my thanks are gratefully tendered to my many
friends in Burma who so kindly assisted me, not only
in the matter of accommodation and transport, but in
the acquisition of information.
To Sir H. Thirkell White and Mr. A. St. J. Leeds,
my kind hosts in Rangoon ; to Mr. A. M. B. Irwin,
whose bungalow in Mandalay was so many times my
home, I owe a deep debt of gratitude ; and to the
Bombay-Burma Trading Corporation, the Burma Rail-
ways, the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company and the Arracan
viii
Preface
Company, under whose auspices I enjoyed many of my
most interesting experiences, my thanks are warmly
tendered.
Nor can I forget the many social Clubs whose
hospitality I enjoyed, and the friends I made through-
out the country, and to many of whom I trust that
these pages may serve to recall associations which I,
at all events, shall always remember with extreme
pleasure.
Naturally, I have only been able to touch the fringe
of the immensity of subjects contained in its 156,000
square miles of tropical beauty, though during my
own journey of some 3500 miles in Burma I have
endeavoured to record something at least of its most
characteristic features.
Many interesting journeys I was obliged to forego :
the trip up the Chindwin and Sittang rivers, from lack
of time, while illness compelled me to reluctantly
abandon a visit to the Ruby Mines, to which Mr.
Atley, their manager, had very cordially invited me.
I am not without the hope, however, that this book,
imperfect as it is, may succeed in conveying some truth-
ful impression of the beauty of the country, some little
insight into the happy picruresqueness of its people,
and may perhaps excite in some readers the desire to
see and study the country for themselves.
IX
Contents
CHAPTER I
Rangoon .......
CHAPTER II
Amenities of Rangoon . . . .
PAGE
I
19
CHAPTER III
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi .... 39
CHAPTER IV
Life in a Burmese Market Town , . . 53
CHAPTER V
Jungle Life at Kokogon ...... 69
CHAPTER VI
Through the Forest to Pyinmana ..... 88
xi
Burma
CHAPTER VII
PAG I
One Thousand Miles up the Irrawaddy : Part I.
(Rangoon to Prome) . . . . . .116
CHAPTER VIII
One Thousand Miles up the Irrawaddy : Part IJ.
(Prome to Bhamo) . . . . . . -133
CHAPTER IX
Two Capitals . . . . . . . . • ^ 5 5
CHAPTER X
Some other Towns. . . . . . . .179
CHAPTER XI
A Month on the Lashio Line . . . . .195
CHAPTER XII
Camping in the Northern Shan States . . . 218
CHAPTER XIII
The Burman ......... 242
Appendix . . . . . . .255
Index . . . . . . . .259
xii
List of Illustrations
1. Shrine on the Platform of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda
2. Ascent to the Shwe Dagon ,
3. The Pagoda Steps, Rangoon
4. Entrance to Bazaar at the Shwe Dagon
5. The Shwe Dagon from Dalhousie Park
6. The Shwe Dagon from the Bahan Tank
7. Ma-HIa-Byu (Miss Pretty and Fair)
8. The River at Prome — Morning Mists rising
9. The Irrawaddy Valley at Meegyoungyai
10. Scrub Jungle ....
11. A Village Shop ....
12. First Steps ....
13. Market-Place at Taungdwingyi
14. A Burmese Hamlet .
15. A Street in Taungdwingyi .
16. A Dak Bungalow
17. Dawn in the Forest .
18. On the Kyouk-mee-Choung
19. Elephants clearing a " Pone " of Logs at Kokogon
20. A Forest Glade ....
21. Loading Teak at Kokogon .
22. A Forest Tai ....
Frontispiece
FACING PAGE
10
12
16
24
28
32
40
42
48
54
56
58
62
66
70
74
76
78
84
92
96
Burma
23-
FAC
Jungle at Delanchoon
•ING PAGE
100
24.
The Village of Min-byin ......
104
25-
Entrance to the Village of Kyet-thoung-doung
108
26.
In Forest Depths .......
112
27.
On the Bassein Creek ......
118
28.
Upstream with the Wind
120
29.
On the Lower Irrawaddy ......
124
30-
Net Fishing on the Irrawaddy . . . . .
128
31-
Drifting .........
130
32-
Waiting for the Steamer — Early Morning .
136
33-
The Landing-Place at Nyaung-u
142
34-
The River at Pakokku
144
35.
Express Steamer passing Sagaing ....
146
36.
Ava
148
37-
In the Second Defile of the Irrawaddy
150
38.
The Irrawaddy Banks near Myin-gyan
152
39-
A Chinese Pawn-Shop — Mandalay
156
40.
The Moat at Mandalay
158
41.
" The Centre of the Universe " — Mandalay
160
42.
A Portico of the Palace — Mandalay .
162
43-
The Kuthodau — Mandalay ....
164
44.
A Zeyat — Mandalay ......
166
45-
" En Promenade "......
168
46.
The Road to Mandalay .....
170
47-
Old Pagan
• 172
48.
The Ananda Temple — Pagan ....
. 174
49.
Platform of the Shwe Zigon Pagoda — Pagan
• 176
50.
A Buddha — near Pagan
. 178
51.
In Nyaung-u
180
52.
Street in Nyaung-u ......
182
53.
Landing-Ghaut at Prome — Low River
184
54.
At the Well
186
List of Illustrations
55. Prayer on the Pagoda Platform — Prome
56. Evening at Thayetmyo
57. Bhamo from the Fort
58. In the Bazaar — Bhamo
59. The Goekteik Gorge
60. The Bottom of Goekteik Gorge
61. Jungle on the Lashio Line
62. The Home of the Peacock
63. Fall on the Myit-nge River
64. The Man-pwe Falls from the Railway Company'
Bungalow
65. Ferry on the Nan-tu River
66. Mining Camp at " The Rapids "
67. A Jungle Stream
68. On the Sterne River .
69. A Mountain Torrent .
70. Rafting down the Nan-tu River
71. Beauty and the Beast
72. " Pya-shikoh " (from a Burmese Painting)
73. "Domestic Felicity" (from a Burmese Painting)
74. Entrance to the Kuthodau — Mandalay
75. Portico of the (Queen's Golden Monastery — Mandalay
Sketch Map of Route at end of volume.
FACING PACK
188
190
192
194
198
202
204
208
210
214
220
226
230
232
238
244
246
248
250
252
The Illustrations in this 'volume ha've been engra'ved and printed
by G. W. Jones, Ltd., 'with ivhich is incorporated The Menpes Press
BURMA
CHAPTER I
RANGOON
Our pleasant voyage was drawing to its close, and there
was not one of the passengers of the Bibby liner by
which I was travelling but experienced a feeling akin to
home-sickness as the time approached for us to bid fare-
well to the s.s. Yorkshire^ now within a few hours of
arriving at Rangoon.
The final match at skittles had been played on the
spacious fore-deck, followed by the last of many con-
certs which, with dances, had from time to time been
arranged in order to relieve the " monotony " of a
voyage that had not known a tedious moment. Our
run out had been uneventfully happy, for the weather
had been perfect, and I know of no line running East
which provides such ample accommodation for its
passengers or more sedulously regards their comfort ;
even the torrid heat of the Red Sea had hardly been felt,
thanks to electric " punkahs " in saloon and state-rooms.
The last few days of our journey, across the Indian
Ocean, accorded well with the spirit of content which
pervaded the ship, as, the temperature pleasantly modified
Burma
by monsoon showers, we would watch the shoals of
bonito- driven flying -fish skim its oily undulations,
and admire the stately frigate-birds which soared
overhead or, regardless of the speedy leviathan which
so closely passed them, rested peacefully upon the
smooth surface of the ocean.
Yet it was a strange land we were approaching that
October morning, and regrets gave place to anticipation
as, awaiting our summons from the " bath-wallah," we
lounged about the after -deck in the early dawn and
looked for the first appearance of the land. Few of us
except the Anglo -Burmans on board had any know-
ledge of the country we were about to visit, and all
looked forward to pleasurable surprises in store with
an eagerness hardly tempered by the apprehension of
snakes or malaria, which many smoke-room " yarns "
told on the voyage might well have engendered.
It must be confessed, however, that my first view of
Burma in the grey dawn was distinctly disappointing.
The low alluvial mud banks, scarcely raised above
high-water mark, and covered with scrub jungle and
" kaing " grass, were certainly not inviting, though those
who knew could tell tales of tiger and other large game
in these wastes, and of a picturesque life hidden away
among the palm groves which dotted the plains.
Entering the river, the turbid waters of the Irra-
waddy presented little of interest save a stray catamaran
or unlovely Chinese " paddy " boat, and even the pic-
turesquely named " Elephant Point " and *' Monkey
Point " conveyed little to the new arrival.
2
Rangoon
Proceeding upstream, however, new growths aroused
our interest — cocoa-nut and toddy palms, tamarinds and
mangoes, among which the trimly thatched huts of the
Burmans or an occasional pagoda furnished the necessary
touch of local colour. Nevertheless the scene was tame,
and to myself at least disappointing, until, after a couple
of hours' steaming, there suddenly appeared, rosy in the
sunshine, the golden dome of the great Shwe Dagon
Pagoda, seemingly suspended above the purple haze
which still hid Rangoon from sight.
From this moment everything appeared changed, and
the freed imagination found possibilities everywhere.
Numerous creeks enter the Rangoon river, leading to
regions unexplored and mysterious ; from them emerge
into the main stream the quaintly shaped boats of the
Burmans — strange craft, whose graceful lines and richly
carved sterns seem to reflect the minds of a people who
love beauty and are content to be happy.
Increasing numbers of steam launches, " paddy " ^
boats, and sampans marked our nearer approach to
Rangoon, and imaginings gave place to more practical
thoughts as the steamer came to an anchor and we pre-
pared to land.
The decks were soon crowded. Native porters,
personal servants of returning " Sahibs," or Eurasian
officials, took possession of the steamer and incidentally
of anything visible that might perchance be legally
claimed as a possible possession of their employers. I
must, however, express some surprise at the action of the
* Unhusked rice.
3
Burma
Customs. Everything in the shape of firearms was at
once seized and placed in bond, and in view of the still
occasional cases of dacoity such precautions (especially
in the case of the .303 rifle) are intelligible and justified ;
but why should such palpably innocent impedimenta as
" kodaks " or field-glasses come under the same em-
bargo ? True, all such belongings were quickly and
politely returned at the custom-house in exchange for a
simple form of declaration ; but it struck me as a some-
what unnecessary and irritating formality, especially to a
new arrival all uncertain of his bearings or how to go
about things. Otherwise the Customs are easy, and in
all cases their officials were polite, even assiduous, in
their well-meant attentions.
Half-an-hour after landing found me very com-
fortably installed in the Strand Hotel, a roomy bed-
room with bathroom attached having been allotted to
me, while its large enclosed verandah, which practically
formed a sitting-room, gave me ample breathing space ;
and, making allowance for the latitude, the table-d'hote
was excellent and varied. I was a little disconcerted,
however, the first night on retiring, to find that my
bed was furnished with mattrass, pillow, and mosquito-
net only, no sheet or covering of any kind being
provided. I imagined this to be an oversight; but
the omission soon explained itself when I found that
the thermometer never dropped below ninety -eight
degrees all night, and In the damp heat that prevailed
it would have been impossible to have endured the
weight of even a silk coverlet.
4
Rangoon
The morning after my arrival I was able to engage
a native (Indian) servant, by name Chinnasammy, an
excellent " boy " of forty or so, who had served through
the Burma war of '87 as officer's and mess servant,
and who was afterwards to prove of the greatest
service to me, as he spoke English and a little Burmese,
while I was entirely ignorant of the latter language ; and,
quite apart from his services as " bearer," it would have
been almost impossible for me, or any one ignorant of
Burmese, to have travelled through the country in
comfort without the assistance of an interpreter. Even
in Rangoon itself, Europeanised though it is, English
alone is a broken reed upon which to rely where half
the languages of the Asiatic world are spoken, and
hardly one of the Eastern races represented has any
knowledge of a Western tongue.
Rangoon is interesting — palpably a prosperous and
in some ways a handsome city, and is a perfect kaleido-
scope of human life.
Built upon the east bank of the river, 30 miles
from the sea, it covers an area of 15 square miles, its
frontage to the river consisting of excellent quays and
" godowns " ^ behind which lies the commercial town.
The river runs by in deeply swirling eddies, dangerous to
life should you accidentally find yourself in the water.
Moored to the wharves, or anchored in midstream,
are a surprisingly large number of ocean steamers ;
prominent among them are the magnificent steamers of
the Bibby line, half-a-dozen or more of the British India
^ Warehouses.
5
Burma
Company's flotilla, and Patrick Henderson andCo.'s latest
addition to their fleet. Other ships, steam tugs and
lighters, and a multitude of sampans and small sailing
craft add to the general eff^ect of bustling commerce, the
two principal items of which are impressed upon you by
the large quantities of rice husks floating on the water,
and the huge teak rafts of the Bombay-Burma Trading
Corporation, Steel Brothers, and other merchants, drifting
to their destinations at Elephant Point and elsewhere.
On landing, the first impression received is the
Indian character of the place, for among all its varied
nationalities the Indian native seems to predominate.
The dock coolies, in simple loin-cloth and turban, are
mostly Madrassees or Chittagonians, the " gharry " ^
and *' tikka gharry " ^ wallahs half-bred Indians, while in
the streets, ablaze with coloured costume, the dominant
types are Hindus, Tamils, Madrassees, Cingalese, and
Chinese. The Burman seems crowded out here, and
has evidently been supplanted by his more energetic
and active-minded rivals. Even the police in the streets
are drawn from that fine body of men the Sikhs, while
all the " chuprassies " or Government messengers are
natives of India. The Chinese are largely in evidence.
Most of the river carrying trade is in their hands ; quite
the best shops and houses in the native quarters are
theirs ; and their general good-humour and smile of
quiet content testify to the prosperity they undoubtedly,
and I think deservedly, enjoy. There is, of course, a
large Burmese population in Rangoon, but they are
^ Cart. 2 Hired vehicle.
6
Rangoon
mainly to be found in their own quarters, and on the
bustling quay-side and business streets are less noticeable
than their alien neighbours.
The men (other than Burmans) are on the whole
good-looking, and, while the women of Ceylon and
India are usually handsome, few of the Burmese women
I saw in Rangoon can claim good looks, though quaint
costume, beautifully dressed and glossy hair, and general
vivacity of manner render them attractive.
Like its population, the town itself is cosmopolitan in
style. Many of the more important buildings are fairly
imposing, some even good, in architecture, but as a rule
they are the square-built stucco houses common to the
Levant, and I suppose the East generally, much the
worse for wear (no doubt due to monsoon rains), and
with the inevitable green "jalousies," usually rather
*' wobbly " and badly in need of a coat of paint.
In plan, Rangoon is well laid out. Main streets run
parallel with the river front, intersected at right angles
by others. These streets are wide and well metalled.
Most of them are bordered by trees, an excellent
provision in a country whose shade temperature even in
the cool season runs up to ninety degrees.
In the centre of the town is Fytche Square, a pretty
garden of considerable extent, around which are many
banks, merchants' offices, and the principal shops, the
whole being dominated by the beautiful cupola of the
Sulay Pagoda.
Among the more important buildings in Rangoon
is the new municipal market, an ornate structure of
7
Burma
considerable size, and to which the natives have taken
kindly, though the bazaars still flourish, and to the artist
at any rate offer greater attraction. Many odd nooks
and corners of extreme interest are to be found : the
Burman and Hindu temples of Pazundoung, the
Chinese joss-house at the north end, the shops of the
silversmiths and umbrella-makers, as well as the fruit
bazaars in the front, while the Chinese and Japanese
streets have each their special interest. All this is very
fascinating, but is hardly Burmese. In fact, in the
streets and bazaars of Rangoon the Burman might
almost be regarded as the stranger, and only in the
Shwe Dagon Pagoda and a few quarters peculiar to
themselves do you find the Burman pure and simple, or
at any rate have opportunity for studying him free from
the overcrowding, noise, and activity of the other races.
The new-comer is almost immediately struck by
the difference between the beasts driven by Burmans
and those of other nationalities and religions. The
Burmese cattle are always sleek, comfortable, and well
fed ; while those of the Mohammedan races are, as
a rule, overworked and often cruelly abused. Here,
perhaps, is a clue to the reason of the Burman being so
completely overshadowed in his own place. Innately
gentle, the same instinct and religious obligation which
lead him to treat his animals with consideration hardly
fit him to compete with the aggressive and noisy cupidity
of others, whose one aim would seem to be to extract as
much as possible from either man or beast.
Behind the commercial town lie cantonments, the
8
Rangoon
residential districts, the drive out being a very inter-
esting one. All the roads are shaded by avenues
of padouk, tamarind, banyan, and palms ; while the
gardens, often bordered by hedges of feathery bamboo,
are well stocked with tropical growths, among which
are many handsome trees and shrubs imported from
other countries. Through the hedges may be seen
glimpses of flowers and pretty lawns, and the well-built
timber bungalows are roomy and often handsome in
design. Everywhere are evidences of wealth among the
residents, and, by the way, of good government on the
part of the municipality, the roads being wide, well
kept, and watered, while the public gardens are tastefully
laid out and maintained.
Practically all the residents have their own vehicles,
but for the visitor the only means of getting about is
by **tikka gharry," a four-wheeled cab which in very
small space combines the maximum of ugliness and dis-
comfort and is drawn by the smallest ponies I have ever
seen in shafts, though they are fast and willing as a rule.
The driver, usually a half-naked coolie, is perched on a
little dickey on the roof, understands no English, and
knows as little about driving as he does of any possible
destination to which you may wish to be taken. These
drivers are supposed to pass an examination before
receiving their licence, but as a matter of fact few of
them know even the main thoroughfares by name, and
the only way for the stranger to go to work is to direct
your *' gharry-wallah " to some well-known place such
as the Strand Hotel, Cook's, or Pegu Club, and call
9 2
Burma
" Hi ! " as you pass the point nearest your objective.
As this, however, implies some little knowledge of the
localities, it does not meet the case of the absolute new
arrivals, who, if they are ignorant of Hindustani, should
at once engage a native servant who speaks English,
which is the only way in which much irritation and loss
of time may be avoided. I would like to suggest to
the proprietors of all Eastern hotels how greatly they
would add to their own prestige as well as the pleasure
of their guests if they would keep in their employment
a few good outdoor servants to act in the capacity of
guides, as well as one or two victorias which visitors
might hire in place of the indescribably uncomfortable
*' tikka gharry."
The hospitality of Rangoon is proverbial, — my own
experience compels me to term it unbounded, — and a
few days after my arrival I found myself surrounded by
a circle of friends, a member of its leading clubs, and,
with my servant, luxuriously installed in the bungalow
of a high Government official in the Prome Road, and
with all the advantages and opportunities for working
which the solicitude of my host was able to afford me,
I had been quite comfortable at the hotel, and have
often fared worse in more pretentious establishments
nearer home ; there is, however, this disadvantage in
living in " town," that your environment is entirely the
business element, which is so largely composed of alien
races that " Burma " is eliminated from your view.
Living in cantonments, however, with its purer air and
more reposeful conditions, was very pleasant and the
10
ASCENT TO THE SHWE DAGON
Rangoon
day's work relatively easy, while the Burman proved
more easily discoverable than in the commercial centre,
and at the same time under conditions which better
suited his temperament. All the roads in the suburbs
are well wooded and pleasant for promenading, and in
Cantonment Gardens, as well as Dalhousie Park, the
Burmese lady, gay in coloured silks, is fond of walking
with her no less daintily clad children. In the neigh-
bourhood are many Burmese villages with their quaintly
carved " kyoungs " ^ and " zeyats " ^ ; but above all you
are in close proximity to that wonderful building, the
central and most sacred shrine of Buddhism, not only in
Rangoon but throughout the country, the great Shwe
Dagon Pagoda.
Here at last you find the Burman in his purity, and
amid surroundings which are entirely complimentary,
and much of my time in Rangoon was spent upon its
platform, charmed but bewildered.
I find it increasingly difficult to give any adequate
idea of this marvellous building, which Edwin Arnold
fitly describes as a " pyramid of fire." It is simply
wonderful, and impossible of description. As, how-
ever, this, the greatest of all Burmese pagodas, is but a
glorified example of the rest, I must make the almost
impossible attempt to describe it.
First let me say that there are two principal forms
of temple in Burma — the "thein" or square-built
temple, which is often surmounted by cupolas and
' Pronounced "choung" = a monaster)'.
2 A rest-house for pilgrims and travellers.
II
Burma
pinnacles, as we will presently see among the ruins of
Pagan ; and the " zedi " form, as here.
Viewed from a little distance, the Shwe Dagon is a
graceful bell-shaped form rising above the trees which
clothe the mound on which it is built, the apex being
surmounted by a " ti " or umbrella, a graceful finial
of wrought-iron overlaid with gold and studded with
precious stones. From it depend little bells and
cymbals which tinkle prettily as they swing in the breeze.
The whole of this dome is gilt, a large portion being
covered with plates of solid gold, and it may be imagined
how glorious is the whole effect as it blazes under an
Indian sun. A rather effective introduction of a single
band of silver in one of its upper courses only adds to
the richness of its appearance.
Four ascents, one from each cardinal point, lead to the
platform from which the pagoda proper rises. Of these,
that from the south is the most important. Formerly
this entrance was perhaps the most striking architectural
feature in the country. A broad flight of steps leads
to a platform or terrace bounded by an ornamental wall ;
passing between two enormous leogryphs, a further flight
of steps and shorter terrace lead to a doorway of Gothic
form, richly embellished by figures of " Nats " ^ and
" Beloos "^ in high relief, the arch being surmounted by a
characteristic " pyathat." Beyond rise in'succession the
carved roofs of various bazaars which mark the different
levels of the hill, the whole perspective culminating in
the glowing mass of the Shwe Dagon itself.
1 Gnomes. ^ Devils,
12
THE PAGODA STEPS, RANGOON
T
Rangoon
Quite recently (it was only finished in 1903) this
terrace has, at enormous cost, been covered in by a
"tazaung,"^ which, though handsome enough in itself, is
in my opinion an unforgivable act of vandalism, as it en-
tirely obliterates a view of an interesting and picturesque
procession of historic structures which was quite unique.
The interior of this covered ascent is full of interest
both architectural and human. On either side are stalls
for the sale of anything, from candles and artificial
flowers for presentation at the shrines to jewellery and
toys. In fact it is probably the best bazaar for " odds
and ends " in Rangoon ; and as the steps are steep, and
crowded with gaily clothed passengers moving up and
down through odd effects of light and shade, the whole
forms, I think, one of the best pictures I saw in Burma.
Ascending the steps, you finally emerge from the
half-light on to the sun-bathed platform (a huge circular
space of many acres) which surrounds the base of the
golden pile which towers 370 feet into the air.
Here again modern addition has somewhat marred
the general effect of the building, the indiscriminate
building of additional shrines upon this platform having
almost hidden the plinth of the pagoda, so that the
general sense of its proportion has been lost. Each or
these shrines, however, is in itself so interesting, and so
lavish in its decoration, that one is reconciled to their
intrusion by a study of their own intrinsic merit.
Whether it be in their general design, elaborate
carving, or glass mosaic, the number and size of the
* Pavilion.
13
Burma
Buddhas in bronze or alabaster they enclose, their enor-
mous bells and ornamental " tis," every bit of these
structures and their adjuncts is absolutely interesting
and beyond my powers of description. The whole
effect is one of golden splendour amidst which a throng,
clad in all the most delicate tints of silk, move like
scattered petals from a bouquet of roses.
Before the shrines are groups of devotees kneeling,
or in the position of "shikoh," some with rosaries,
others with flowers between their palms; they pray
fervently, while lighted candles gleam before the niche
from which a gilded Buddha smiles.
They appear very devout, and the hum of many
voices joined in earnest supplication is impressive.
Yet I am informed that the Buddhist prays " to nobody
and for nothing " ! This may be so, and the Buddhist
faith is one which few have been able to fathom ; but
the sight of these evidently sincere worshippers would
seem to contradict this negative assertion, and at any
rate presents a striking instance of that dependence
the human heart must always instinctively feel when
contemplating the omniscient and the unknown.
These shrines are not for Burmans only, however.
Buddhists of all races are represented, and all are
dressed in gala costume. On festivals the Indian
Buddhists particularly are richly clad : in one group
which I noticed, the women, who were closely veiled, in
addition to their other ornaments wore shields of silver
on their toes. Each race or tribe appears to affect a
particular shrine, which no doubt accounts for the
Rangoon
erection of so large a number, but I was glad to learn
that any further building on the pagoda platform has
now been prohibited.
On the outer circle of this platform are many other
buildings — offices for the custodian and his assistants,
a library and Chinese temple, sundry shrines and
" zeyats " for pilgrims, between which are stalls and
booths for the sale of food-stuffs and votive offerings.
Away in a corner, shaded by a pepul tree, are the graves
of our officers who fell at the storming of the pagoda ;
and not far away, in a half-ruined and neglected shrine, is
the most beautiful figure of Buddha I have seen, in which
the face, admirably modelled, really combines in its
smile something of human sympathy together with the
eternal peace of heaven. On the platform are two
particularly good Shan " tis " beautifully wrought in
perforated iron, also two others of stone, and a really
fine " tagundaing," or flag-staff, the pediment of
which is in five stages, each embellished with carved
representations of dragons, garuda birds, ghouls, ogres,
and fairies, in the order given. Among the many
curios safeguarded by the custodian is a silver model of
the Sulay Pagoda in which is enclosed a tooth of
Gaudama, a relic supposed to be genuine, while facing
the principal shrine two life-sized figures of teak, a
man and a woman, in all the bravery of gaudy paint
and tinsel, are dancing to the accompaniment of two
gramophones which bellow forth in a noisy rivalry the
latest comic songs from the London music halls ! It is all
very incongruous but deeply interesting: everywhere is
15
Burma
some object to claim attention or admiration, to excite
sympathy or amusement, but what at first puzzled me
most was the great number of bells in every corner of
the temple. Some of these bells are of enormous size,
canopied by a handsome " pyathat"^ ; others of less size
are in the open, suspended by handsomely wrought slings
and bosses of bronze between their coloured posts.
Beside each bell is a deer's antler with which to strike
it, and I was informed that it is the custom for
Buddhists, after praying, to strike first the earth and
then the bell in order to draw the attention of the
" Nats " of the nether and upper worlds to their act of
piety 1 In all Burmese pagodas bells figure largely, and
1 think, without exception, each temple is also adorned
by huge leogryphs as guardians of the entrance. The
legend is that in the misty past a king's daughter was
stolen by a forest **Nat" and hidden in the woody
fastnesses. All attempts at recovery failed, until one
day a lioness rescued the princess and restored her to
her father. Since then the lion, conventionalised in
course of time into the leogryph, has been perpetuated
as the symbol of protection and guardianship.
Ever fond of a joke, the Burman likes to point out
in the case of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda that one of these
guardian effigies has a sharp tongue, while that of the
other is blunt ; one, they say, is a female, the other a male,
but as to which is which the visitor is left to decide !
It is impossible in a short space to fully appreciate
1 A canopy of five or seven roofs in diminishing scale terminating in an
elongated finial.
i6
ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR AT THE SHWE DAGON
r^
f^n-'^
Rangoon
all the interest of this most wonderful temple, which, in
spite of certain incongruities, must impress even the
most casual visitor with a feeling of admiration and
respect for a religion which so beautifully expresses its
devotion, and here alone in all Rangoon one gets a
glimpse at the heart of Burma itself, and already begins
to feel a sympathy with the people.
As a Burmese crowd may be as well studied at the
Shwe Dagon as elsewhere, we might examine them a
little more closely before leaving the pagoda.
All are gaily clothed. The men, who wear their
hair long like a woman, are dressed in silk head-scarf
or turban, a white jacket, and a kind of skirt, usually of
coloured silk. These skirts are of two kinds : one a
simple sack called " lungyi," twisted into a knot at
the waist ; the other called " petsoe," a somewhat
similar garment, but plus several yards of extra material
which is either bunched up in front of the waist or
serves as a head-and-neck shawl should it be cold.
Most of the men in Rangoon wear boots, and carry
cheap cotton parasols, which on the coast are supplanting
the more picturesque native article.
In type the men are distinctly Mongolian and sallow
in complexion, they wear a slight moustache and
sometimes beard, and all (women included) smoke
abnormally large cigars.
The women are infinitely more attractive than the
men and less Mongoloid in appearance, the complexion
being more ruddy, the cheek-bones not so high, and
their features generally more regular. Their hair, which
17 3
Burma
is a purple black, is very luxuriant and always well
dressed. It is usually worn in a tight coil on the top
of the head, and in it is placed, in a very coquettish
manner, a rose or orchid or some other flower. In the
front of the coil is generally an ivory or white-wood
comb.
Their costume is much the same as the men's, except
that no head-dress is worn, — the same dainty white
jacket and coloured " lungyi," or, in the case of those
of superior position, a " temaine," a skirt of greater
length so that it trails upon the ground, and which is
open at the side, exposing the leg nearly to the hips in
walking.
Round the neck, or thrown loosely over the shoulder,
is a scarf of figured silk usually bright in colour, and
on the feet sandals, or pattens, of wood.
Their gait is modest and whole appearance attractive,
and as they wander about, shaded by their quaint semi-
transparent umbrellas, chatting and laughing, flirting
their fans prettily, or enjoying their cigars, they form
the merriest and most fascinating crowd imaginable.
Yet they are devout, praying often at the shrines, and
are the business mainspring of the country. In fact,
the women seem to monopolise the brain and energy
of the race, and occupy an absolutely independent
position. The men are inclined to laziness, but all —
man, woman, or child — are good-humoured, happy, and
polite.
i8
CHAPTER II
AMENITIES OF RANGOON
As I have already indicated, society in Rangoon is pleas-
antly environed, and the evidences of prosperity every-
where apparent are by no means at the expense of beauty.
The well-built bungalows are generally pleasing in
design, and in many cases are made really pretty by
flowering creepers and well-selected shrubbery. The
" compounds " are large. Behind the bungalow, and
screened from sight, are the stables and kitchens, the
latter being connected with the house by a covered
passage, a necessary provision against the monsoon
rains. Before and about the house is the garden
proper, generally well supplied with shade trees, while
many are ablaze with bedded-out plants and flowering
shrubs. Some of these gardens indeed are charming,
combining all the wealth of the flowers and foliage of
the tropics with the familiar and homelike annuals of
the mother country ; geranium and pansy emulate the
more pronounced glories of the cactus or bougainvillea,
while violets modestly add their offering of perfume to
that of the magnolia or lily.
'9
Burma
The gardeners are always natives of India, and to
give an instance of the loving care with which they
perform their duties, I may instance the lawn which
was the chief glory of my host's domain, and in which
each root of grass had been separately planted by his
" mahli."
All the roads in cantonments are well wooded, the
heavy foliage of padouk and banyan contrasting with
the more delicate habit of the gold mohur or the grace-
ful palmyra and cocoa-nut palms. Some of the vistas
afforded by these shady avenues are quite beautiful,
and the life of the roads is interesting. Indian coolies
hurry along with their curious ambling gait, bearing
baskets of cocoa-nuts or dishes of sweetmeats slung from
the bamboo which they carry across their shoulders ; and
Indian women, with their delicate little faces and small
hands and feet (much be-bangled) appearing from out
the folds of their red " dhoties." Chinese labourers, in
huge straw hats and loose-fitting garments, go to their
work smiling and ever ready to make a joke of any
mishap which may befall them. Quaint gharries drawn
by patient and mild-eyed bullocks convey daintily clad
Burmese ladies to some social function or pleasure
party, while at almost every corner are smart native
policemen who salute the " sahib " as he passes.
The types are interesting, and give the scene the
necessary touch of orientalism, and, as usual, the
costumes are bright in colour. Pink appeared to be
the favourite tint, but many combinations are worn,
such as a scarlet coat with purple sleeves, pink skirt
20
Amenities of Rangoon
with apple-green shawl, etc., while, aided by the power-
ful sunshine, colours which the Western mind would at
once condemn as impossible of combination are here
successfully and harmoniously blended.
In the previous chapter I have made use of the term
" shikoh," which is the Burmese form of salute. In its
full elaboration a squatting position is assumed with the
hands placed palm to palm as though praying ; the
hands are always pointed towards the person saluted,
and should he move his position the Burman will alter
his own so as to continue facing him. Indoors, shoes
are always removed at the threshold as a first mark of
respect. If met in the street, the Burman will lower
his umbrella, place whatever he may be carrying on the
ground, and " shikoh " in proper form. A modified
and now more general form of " shikoh " is simply to
place the hands together and bow to the person compli-
mented. Another mark of respect is to approach
the person to be saluted and touch his knee with the
hand.
One of the unfortunate effects of our occupation
of Burma has been the gradual undermining of this
ancient courtesy, and in Rangoon the '* shikoh " is
almost a thing of the past ; and I was struck by the fact
that, while all the other native races here are polite and
respectfully " salaam " the European, the Burman alone
declines to " shikoh " to any one, passing by with an
air of unconscious indifference.
The young Burmans of to-day are beginning to wear
socks and patent-leather shoes, and smoke American
21
Burma
cigarettes. Inheriting the conceit of their forefathers,
but without their inherent gentility, they decline
to salute any one unless compelled to do so. In
Rangoon this question recently became acute when
the pupils in the schools, taking advantage of their
mixed birth, struck against " shikohing " to their
teachers, and the Government, somewhat weakly I
think, gave way upon the point and substituted the
military form of salute for the more picturesque native
custom.
Apropos of this decline of native politeness you will
sometimes hear a Burman object to do certain work
on the score that he is a '* trouser-wallah " (that is,
that he wears European clothes) and is superior to any
work. On the other hand, in country districts particu-
larly, politeness on the part of the native is often
carried to excess. Let me give an instance. A friend
of mine was trying a new pony, which ran away with
him, and in the narrow road overtook a cart in which
were a family party out holiday-making. The pony
ran into the back of the cart and threw his rider into
the midst of the startled merry-makers, half-killing the
Burman who was driving. Before my friend had time
to offer any explanation of his unexpected onslaught,
the Burman " shikohed " to him and said apologetically,
*' My lord, my lord, the cart should not have been
there " !
While the Burman will often pay so much respect to
the white man it is rather curious to notice that saluta-
tions between natives who may happen to meet in the
22
Amenities of Rangoon
road are rare, and even in the heart of the forest they
will pass each other without so much as '* Good day."
Every one in Rangoon is up with the sun, and after
a very light " chota-hazri " is out walking or riding in
the cool of the morning. By 9 a.m. a cool verandah
with a lounge chair under a " punkah " is a refuge to be
desired. The peculiar potency of the sun is remarkable.
I do not think I noticed any temperature over 101° in
Rangoon, while more generally 95° was about the
maximum at mid-day, yet even in the relatively cool
mornings a silk suit and solar topee were imperative.
In Egyptian deserts I have been happy in a cloth cap
and riding-suit with the thermometer far above these
figures, but in the lower latitudes of India the angle of
the sun's rays seems to impart to its Hght^ as apart from
its heat^ a curious power of penetration from which pro-
tection is essential.
I was assured on arrival that it would be quite
impossible for me to work out-of-doors during the heat
of the day, even the animals taking their siesta, and for
the first few days I sought sanctuary indoors between
the hours of 1 1 and 4.
I was in despair as I saw how slowly work progressed,
so taking my courage in both hands for the rest of my
stay in Burma I worked consistently right through the
day. Certainly this was very trying, and it required all
one's determination to face the heat and glare, but I
found it quite a possibility, and in and about Rangoon
especially shade of some kind was usually obtainable.
The people were most polite. If I happened to be
23
Burma
working near a building, a chair and umbrella would
invariably be offered, and the Sikh policemen especially
seemed to like to assume control of the crowd which,
with mild and respectful curiosity, gathered round me
to see what I was doing.
After tea Rangoon betakes itself to tennis or
Dalhousie Park, where, at a rendezvous not inaptly
dubbed '* Scandalpoint," the Volunteer band plays well
enough to render the promenade and gossip attractive.
This park is pretty to a degree. The irregular banks
which enclose the Victoria Lake are not only well
wooded, but the selection of the trees and placing of the
different groups have been carried out in such a way as
to gain the maximum of value from contrast or sym-
metry. Indeed, I have seldom seen such an entirely
successful arrangement of different growths as here.
Across the lake is the Boat Club, and skiffs or
sailing-boats vie with swans and water-lilies in giving
interest to the placid water which reflects the ever-
impressive cupola of the pagoda.
At sunset " tum-tums " ^ and carriages are called up,
and perhaps after a quick drive round the " Switch-
back " all seem by mutual consent to gravitate towards
the Gymkhana Club. This is quite the best part of
the day ; the air is deliciously cool and the coloration
gorgeous. In the bamboo clumps crickets are shrilly
alive, and the laggard swallows reluctantly surrender
their chase to the bats. Fish, dormant during the heat of
day, are now rising in search of food, streaking the limpid
1 Dog-carts.
24
4 Hiaioh
■■-.CJ .-iV/i
THE SHWE DAGON FROM DALHOUSIE PARK
Amenities of Rangoon
water with silver ripples, while the cold earthy smell
which rises from the ground reminds you that fever is
not unknown in Burma and suggests an overcoat.
Climbing Pagoda Hill, the road leads almost due
west. The air is still dusty from the day's traffic, and,
illuminated by the ruddy afterglow, it hangs in the avenues
like a golden mist. Enveloped in this shimmering
light is perhaps a group of Burmese women, their dainty
heads encircled by the orange-coloured umbrellas they
still carry, the delicate tints of their silk draperies
merging into the golden mystery which surrounds them.
It is all very lovely, and one regrets the shortness of the
twilight which puts a period to such a transfiguration of
the facts of day, and to which no more abrupt contrast
could be imagined than your arrival at the Gymkhana
Club.
Hardly perhaps a club in the strict sense, it is a very
general and popular meeting-place in the early evening.
The building is large and airy, well supplied with card
and reading rooms, the ground-floor being almost
entirely occupied by its fifteen or sixteen billiard-tables.
In front is the cricket-field, where many hard fights take
place, but at this hour the lawn is given up to the
children and their ayahs, and dotted with the tea-tables
of members and their wives. Behind are tennis-courts
and stabling. The ladies have their own reading and
billiard rooms, and once a week an impromptu dance
takes place in the recently added ballroom.
Altogether it is a breezy, jolly club, most generous
in admitting strangers and displaying in a marked
25 4
Burma
degree that hospitality and good-fellowship which in my
experience is so general a characteristic of the Anglo-
Burman. It was here that, a few days after my arrival,
I witnessed a novel proof of the tropical character of
Rangoon. The monsoon rains had hardly yet ceased,
and the air was filled with a steamy warmth which, in
spite of punkahs and wide-open verandah -screens,
rendered coats and waistcoats intolerable. The billiard-
tables were all occupied, the markers being mainly
employed in sweeping off the thousands of insects which,
attracted by the lights, settled on the tables. These
were of all kinds : curious hard and horny creatures, big
grasshoppers, gaudy moths, twig insects, and the lovely
leaf mantis — in fact, the collection of entomological
specimens on the tables was far more interesting than
the game. Finally the swarms of insects became so
great that it was difficult to force a ball the length of
the table, and the games had to be abandoned and all
lights extinguished for a time.
Running all over the walls were lizards, pretty cream-
coloured things which darted about catching moths and
white ants, and chirruping to each other the while like
sparrows, and in the dark corners lurked others, larger and
greyer, of sinister aspect and suspicious movements, which
rendered them open to the imputation of cannibalism. In
a friend's house also I made the acquaintance of the well-
known " tuk-too," a little lizard of some six inches in
length, who calls his name explosively, and loudly
enough to be startling on the first occasion. The
" tuk-too " is considered lucky in a house and is never
26
Amenities of Rangoon
disturbed, and the natives regard it as poisonous, though
this is not probable. Once in my bath-towel I dis-
covered a large tarantula spider, and on another occasion
disturbed a cobra in the grass, but with these exceptions
I met with nothing dangerous to health or life in
Rangoon, and even the mosquitoes were hardly notice-
able.
Still there are snakes in plenty in the gardens, and it
is always wise to have a lantern if walking after dark.
I heard of a case, which I believe to be authentic, of a
lady who, on leaving the Pegu Club to walk to her house
a very short distance away, trod upon a Russell's viper
in the grass which fringed the road ; she was immediately
struck in the ankle, and unfortunately died before she
could reach her home. This, however, is an unusual
case, and though general precautions are desirable I do
not think the visitor to Rangoon need concern himself
greatly about snakes.
Many pretty birds frequent cantonments : wrens and
robins, doves and bulbuls, and the wearisome " copper-
smith" bird, whose reiterated note, sounding like the
stroke of a hammer upon copper, is often exasperating,
especially in the heat of the day.
Like all Eastern towns Rangoon has its particular
plague, in this case crows. Strongly in evidence during
the day as they scavenge or thieve in the bazaars, it is
in the evening that the visitor is struck with amaze-
ment at their number and sagacity. Their rookeries
are miles away in the jungle ; every morning they
invade the town in their thousands, and at sunset return
27
Burma
to their forest habitat. The sight as they fly home-
wards is remarkable, and for an hour at least the sky is
black with the continuous flight of these birds, which
have increased in number so much of late as to have
become a serious nuisance in Rangoon, and their exter-
mination, or at least limitation, is a problem which is
seriously exercising the minds of residents.
A chapter might be written about the Rangoon crow,
but let me give one instance of his sagacity. A gentle-
man residing in cantonments made a bet with a friend
that he would, from his compound, shoot one crow
nightly for a month. The first evening he bagged his
bird, and on the second another, but on the third and
every successive evening each flight of crows as it neared
his residence soared until out of range, and, when the
danger zone was passed, descended again to their normal
level. How the warning was passed from one rank to
another is a mystery, but it is the fact that our friend
never got another shot.
It is inevitable that in a prosperous centre such as
Rangoon much that is pictorial must give way to the
necessities of modern improvement. Recently a Burmese
village near the cemetery has been entirely swept away
and its site added to the new Victoria Memorial Park,
and nobody could deny how greatly the community
benefits by the change. In many of the main thorough-
fares are quaint nooks wherein Burmese life still lingers
in its primitive simplicity, but which are just as inevitably
doomed.
There is one village, however, which lies close to the
28
THE SHWE DAGON FROM THE BAHAN TANK
Amenities of Rangoon
Shwe Dagon Pagoda on the road to Kokine which I
trust will be permitted for many years to come to con-
tinue its picturesque and, placid existence, and remain as
an interesting link with a phase of life fast disappearing
from Rangoon.
This is the village of Ngadatgyi-Hpya, more com-
monly known as Wingaba or the Labyrinth. People
pass it daily in their drives, and though probably all
admire the richly carved kyaungs which, half buried in
a profusion of vegetation, fringe the road, few care to
explore the winding lanes and causeways which lie behind
and from which the village derives its name. It is a
place of considerable sanctity, occupied mainly by
hpungyis and pilgrims who have come from all over the
Buddhist world to worship at the great shrine under
whose shadow it is built.
I only visited it once, but then under conditions that
have impressed the romantic aspect of the place vividly
upon my mind. The occasion was the casting of one
of the huge bells the Burmans love so much, a ceremony
of religious importance and one for which great prepara-
tions are made. I elected to pay my visit the even-
ing before the actual ceremony of casting, when the
European element would be less in evidence, my host
driving me over after dinner to the neglect of a dance
to which we were both engaged.
Leaving our " tum-tum " in the road, we turned into
the lane which led to the village proper. It was bright
moonlight, in which the paths gleamed white, while across
them fell the black shadows of the palms and jungle
29
Burma
trees which bordered them, and among which were
zeyats and hpungyi-kyaungs, and many other booths
and temporary buildings erected for the occasion.
Emerging from mysterious depths of gloom and mov-
ing through these alternations of light and shade were
animated groups of Burmans, whose costume, always
picturesque, gained an additional and bewildering beauty
of tone in the silvery moonlight,; and the ladies, having
discarded the fans and parasols of day, wore, loosely
thrown over their shoulders, shawls of both delicate tints
and textures. As we ascended the sloping path towards
the village the scene was one of extraordinary beauty, a
tone study in which the opalescent tints which prevailed
were further accentuated by the glare of an occasional
lamp or the positive red of paper lanterns.
In the middle of the village is a sacred tank or lake,
three sides of which are surrounded by forest trees and
creepers ; on the fourth is the bazaar, which lined the
road, with which it was level, though the rear of the
buildings, supported upon piles, overhung the water of
the lake. Every building was ablaze with coloured
lanterns, and in the shops anything bright of tint was
exposed for sale. Here and there were cafes, decorated
with bright hangings, and filled with people whose
beautiful dresses gained additional lustre from the
many coloured lamps by which they were illuminated.
Every one was in holiday mood — smoking, chatting,
laughing, gay in colour, gay in temperament. It was
delightful, and the general hilarity was further en-
hanced by the gambols of the youngsters, who, in paper
30
Amenities of Rangoon
masks and grotesque costumes, played tricks upon the
passers-by. The road had now become a raised cause-
way of bricks, set herring-bone fashion, and presently,
by a flight of steps, mounted a hill deeply shaded by a
mango clump. Beyond was a series of hillocks and
dells upon which were built the monasteries and shrines
of the village itself. Facing us was a large white
building supported upon row upon row of columns
between which hundreds of devotees with lighted
candles " shikohed " before an enormous Buddha,
recently erected, and which could not have been less
than 40 feet in height. On first entering it was
difficult to see through the smoke in the dim light of
the candles (aided by a few electric lights), and it was
only after becoming accustomed to the semi-gloom that
one at last realised the presence of this enormous figure
which, calm, impassive, and with an air of benign
dignity, looked down upon you from the partial gloom
of the smoke -wreathed roof. When, however, the
consciousness of this extraordinary monument impressed
itself upon you the effect was instantaneous and im-
pressive, and rendered the beholder oblivious to the
incongruity presented by the laughing holiday-makers
who, smoking and chatting, squatted in groups upon
the floor or moved indifferently among the worshippers.
Leaving this temple, we roamed about the causeways
which were built upon the ridges between the hills.
The hollows were occupied by booths in which all
kinds of " shows " were going on, each attended by a
crowd of jolly sight-seers. Many of these booths were
31
Burma
hung with curtains and formed the resting-place for the
Burmese ladies who, squatting on the ground, were
enjoying their cigars or the varied refreshments pro-
vided. In one was an exceedingly good marionette show
accompanied by a Burmese orchestra, while two merry-
go-rounds afforded amusement not only to the young-
sters present but to many of their elders also. In the
various kyaungs sat the village priests receiving the
deferential salutations of the crowd and (incidentally)
a varied assortment of presents. Some of these
presents were curious, one I may mention being a
handsome four-post brass bedstead, evidently just out
from Birmingham, and which seemed to me to ill accord
with the simple instincts and habits of the hpungyi.
The whole scene was very animated : the contours
of the undulations were plainly marked by the in-
numerable lanterns everywhere displayed, each hillock
being crowned by a religious building or a clump of
palm trees, while the little causeways which joined them
swarmed with sight-seers.
On one of these knolls were the furnaces and mould
for the enormous bell which was to be cast on the
morrow. The arrangements were very simple. Four
furnaces, built of bricks and mud, surrounded the
mould itself, a very rough structure of the same
material. The fires were all aglow, the blast being
furnished by an enormous fan driven by a flywheel
worked by hand, the air being led to the furnaces by
pipes underground. By the side of each was a pile of
copper, broken pots, etc., ready for melting, and I
32
'■ '•:;',•) )\H'; IH-f t/
MA-HLA-BYU (mISS PRETTY AND FAIR)
Amenities of Rangoon
noticed that women in passing would frequently tear-
off their ornaments of gold and silver, sometimes set
with stones, and throw them among the broken metal
as their contribution to the smelting-pot.
The whole panorama, in which masses of gaily
clad humanity, bewildering lights, and strange sounds
were viewed under the romantic light of a tropical
moon, formed a kaleidoscope as bewildering as it was-
fascinating, and I am afraid no words of mine can give
an adequate impression of so strangely picturesque a
scene.
It is rather sad to think that, after all this pre-
liminary preparation, and the important public function
which marked the day itself, through some fault in the
mould the casting of the bell was a failure, and it had
to be broken up. I have since been told that this
particular bell weighed about 35 tons, and cost some-
thing like ^1000.
The love of the Burmans for big bells is curious, the
large bell in the Shwe Dagon Pagoda being about 40
tons in weight, while that of Mingun weighs nearly 80
tons, with a diameter of 16 feet at the lip. None of
them, however, are good in tone, and are not to be
compared with the smaller bells or the exquisitely toned
gongs for which Burma is so famous.
Though in no sense typical of Burma, Rangoon is in
itself sufficiently interesting to warrant a much fuller
description than I have attempted, but before leaving
this subject let me say a few words about the Chinese,
who are already a very considerable section of the
33 5
Burma
Rangoon community, and destined, I think, to play an
important part in the development of Burma. A large
slice of the trade of the port is in their hands, and many
of their merchants occupy positions in the municipal
council and other posts of honour ; Mr. Tau San Kho,
the Government archaeologist, may be given as an
instance, a cultured gentleman of charming and agree-
able manner, to whom I am personally indebted for an
interesting glimpse at Chinese life in Rangoon.
Their houses are quite the best and richest in the
native town, and are gaily painted and decorated with
hanging lanterns and beautiful vases containing flowers.
I noticed that invariably the woodwork was painted
red^ which, my guide informed me, was a " lucky "
colour. Attached to the doors and window frames
were strips of red paper inscribed in Chinese characters,
all more or less tattered and weather-worn. These, it
transpired, were the last year's New Year's Greetings of
friends, the custom being to fix them to the doors,
where they are left (again for "luck") until the next
anniversary brings its fresh batch of good wishes with
which to replace them.
Another point which attracts attention is the fact
that the doors of Chinese dwellings are invariably in
the centre of the house, they having a proverb to the
effect that " luck comes in at the middle but runs out
at the corners."
The Chinese have many curious superstitions, as a
visit to one of their joss-houses will quickly demon-
strate. Under Mr. Tau San Kho's escort I visited the
34
Amenities of Rangoon
new one at the north end, an exquisite little building
which merits description. It is built on the river front,
being set back from the street by an enclosed flagged
square, which enables a good and uninterrupted view of
the building to be obtained. The walls are of a kind of
granite, greenish -grey in colour, and are broken by
panels, in which are carved in low relief grotesque
hunting scenes, or illustrations from the life of Con-
fucius. Above are the curious up-tilted eaves and
ridges of the series of roofs which cover the various
chambers of the building. These roofs are of highly
glazed tiles of many colours, greens, greys, and blues
predominating ; the ridges terminate in finials composed
of richly ornate dragons in porcelain, and between them
are interspersed smaller figures of the same material.
A flight of low steps leads to the entrance doors, which
are guarded by finely wrought dragons in stone.
The interior is rich to a degree. Everywhere is
ornamentation, the timbers are lacquered or carved like
ivory, in some cases beams and joints being completely
perforated almost like filigree work, and then picked
out in gold and vermilion. The pillars supporting the
roof are round, and composed of timber enamelled
black, with inscriptions in gold running down them.
At the end of the first court is a high altar, surmounted
by a shrine containing figures carved out of wood, and
in many parts of the building are ornamental vases
containing flowers.
From the roof hang lanterns of wood, horn, or
paper, each pretty or quaint, as the case might be.
35
Burma
Nearly everything is painted red, and draperies of the
same colour but of different tone, paper scrolls of an
orange tint, and great splashes of brick red vary a
scheme of colour, sumptuous yet harmonious, and to
which the black columns and green and blue pottery
act as a perfect foil.
This play of genuine vermilion is splendid, and, as
though with studied effect, most of the worshippers
wore black or grey costumes of a soft material.
I watched one man praying at the altar for a con-
■siderable time, — a curious sight. On the altar were vases
containing a number of sticks carved and differently
marked ; the " worshipper " shakes the vase in a
peculiar manner until eventually one stick falls out and,
according to its shape and markings, he interprets the
answer to his prayer. There are also small pieces of
wood, about the size of a small banana, round on one
side and flat on the other, which are tossed into the air
and fall clattering on to the floor ; if the flat side lies
uppermost it signifies " good luck," if the round side
" bad luck," and if one of each, just ordinary good
fortune. The man I was watching was evidently
meeting with indifferent success, for he continued to
shake out sticks and toss for luck with the persistence,
and, I must add, the expression of a gambler until in the
end they fell as he desired, and he departed quite
happy !
Round the central court is a corridor illuminated in
cool tints, and opening out of this are a number of
smaller rooms. One is a bedroom, another a restaurant,
36
Amenities of Rangoon
while in one was a stack of paper packets, each leaf
being decorated and inscribed ; these, I learnt, were
prayers^ which are burnt in a stove in another room,
together with the litter and sweepings of the temple !
My cicerone presented me with a packet, the top
sheet of which, I was told, is a prayer for " health, more
money, and lots of children " ! My guide explained to
me that " the English always like to have few children,
one, two, or three perhaps, but we like to have lots and
lots " !
The temple was pretty well thronged with people
of all races and creeds, the Chinese being most tolerant
of other religions, and " not like the Mohammedans
and Hindus," as my friend observed. A further
instance of this attitude was presented outside where,
with their patterns marked on the pavement of the
courtyard, a group of Indian fishermen were busy sail-
making, " for, poor fellows, they could not do it in the
street " !
This joss-house has only recently been completed, at
the cost of j^ 1 1 ,000, and every stick and stone of which
it is composed was brought from China.
Though superstitious the Chinese are capable and
industrious, easy to get on with, and ever ready to
make light of their mishaps. They are good business
men and hard bargainers, but once an agreement has
been arrived at their given word is literally their bond,
and may be implicitly trusted. Several times during
my stay in Burma I was brought into close associa-
tion with the Chinese, and soon found my inborn
37
Burma
antipathy and misconception give place to a growing
respect and real liking for a people often ignorantly
maligned.
If, as unfortunately appears to be the case, the
pure Burman is destined to disappear in favour of a
hybrid race, I cannot help hoping that the preponder-
ating alien blood will be Chinese rather than that of the
more servile and less able native of India.
38
CHAPTER III
ACROSS THE YOMAS TO TAUNGDWINGYI
Among the many friends I made in Rangoon were the
heads of the Bombay-Burma Trading Corporation, who
kindly invited me to visit their forest of Taungdwingyi
and see something of the teak industry and jungle life.
Having purchased the necessary camp equipment I made
a comfortable journey by the night train to Prome,
accompanied by Mr. Maclennan, their forest manager.
The first break of dawn found us running through
paddy fields, pleasantly broken up by palm groves and
clumps of forest trees, partly veiled by the morning
mists which still hung heavy on the land. As we
approached Prome station the first rays of sunlight were
illuminating the golden pinnacles and dome of the
Shwe Tsan Daw Pagoda, just visible through the palm
trees which hid the base of the hill upon which it was
built. It appeared very enticing, but as it was now
6.30 A.M., and we had to start by steamer at 7 a.m.,
Prome and its pagoda had to be reserved for a further
visit.
As we entered the station Mr. Litchfield, of the
39
Burma
Survey of India, was waiting to receive us, and with
the courtesy so typical of the country had prepared
chota hazri for us, which his servants had brought to
the station, and after a brief salutation and a hasty repast
we started for our steamer.
On climbing the river-bank from the station, I do
not think I ever saw a more beautiful view than this
first glimpse of the Irrawaddy in the early dawn. The
sun had only just risen, and the mists, floating in
wreaths above the river, hung on the wooded heights
on the other side or lay in the valleys like snowdrifts,
the crests of the heavily wooded hills being lost to view.
The river is wide, probably a mile or so, placid, deep,
and swirling in eddies along the bank, now crowded
with coolies transferring mails and baggage to the
steamer.
The Irrawaddy is a noble stream, in the swift silence
of its flow reminding me strongly of the Nile, though
I missed the beautiful lateen-sailed boats of Egypt.
There were few vessels on the river, though the dug-
out canoes and an occasional " laung-zat " ^ moving
slowly over its placid surface gave it a particular interest
of its own. The eastern bank is not high, but on the
western side the land rises in tiers of serrated hills to
a height of probably three or four thousand feet.
Every hill is heavily covered with growth, and the banks
are beautiful with varied foliage, in which the feathery
bamboo contrasts pleasingly with the denser habit of
the forest trees, while the toddy palm rears its high
* A cargo boat.
40
THE RIVER AT PROME MORNINCx MISTS RISING
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi
crest in rivalry with the ever-present pagoda. Our
steamer started promptly, the character of the banks
varying little as we proceeded upstream, though the
almost instantaneous disappearance of the morning fogs
opened up more extended vistas, and enabled one to
judge better as to the general characteristics of the
scenery.^
On the river banks are Burmese villages constructed
mainly of bamboo, while nearly every knoll is crowned
by a pagoda or a monastery. On the sand-banks of
the river are fishing huts, which will be washed away
next rise, and at frequent intervals rafts of enormous
size drift slowly towards the teak mills in Rangoon.
Smaller craft of various kinds, under sail or drifting
with the stream, together with the animated crowds
which, in search of profit or amusement, thronged the
landing-places at which we stopped,Jcept one's interest
alive until, about sun-down, we reached the town of
Thayetmyo. Here we had to transfer from the mail-
steamer to a small ferry-boat, on which we spent the
night.
Leaving early in the morning, a short run brought
us to Meegyoungyai, where it had been arranged for
coolies, bullock gharries, and ponies to be waiting to
* These jungle-clad hills are, I am told, full of game, and I heard of one
particularly sportsmanlike event which took place hereabout. A gentleman
coming down the river in a steamer, in searching the banks with his field-
glasses, picked up what he took to be the trail of a rhinoceros, and persuad-
ing the captain to put him ashore, he with his " shikarri " followed the
trail for several hours, eventually coming up with and killing a fine *' rhino,"
the head of which he was able to take away.
41 6
Burma
transport us to the forest ; and, our stores and kits
having been landed, we found ourselves at about
4 P.M. comfortably installed in the dak bungalow for the
night. I noticed, by the way, that all the coolie work
in connection with the landing of the cargo from the
steamer was performed by women and girls (the men
preferring to look on and smoke), and it was surprising
what enormous weights even young girls were able to
carry on their heads.
This village and dak being typical, I may as well
describe them here.
The village is built on the banks of the river,
prettily situated among the groves of trees which over-
hang the pools below. On its other three sides is a
high stockade of thorns, overgrown with yellow con-
volvulus and other creepers. At each side are gates,
which are shut at night and placed under the charge of
a guard, no one being allowed to pass after dark.
Within the huge compound so formed are groves of
toddy palms, mango, and tamarind, amongst which are
the houses of the Burmans. These are usually built of
bamboo, though many have their principal timbers of
eng wood, all being raised from the ground on piles four
to six feet in height as a safeguard against floods, snakes,
and malaria. The floors are usually of split bamboo, the
thatch of elephant grass, or " thekke " ; bamboo mats,
called " tayan," prettily plaited and often in coloured
patterns, serve as walls, but as the side nearest the street
is usually open the whole interior arrangements and
domestic occupations are exposed to view. About the
42
t,t i .^
THE IRRAWADDY VALLEY AT MEEGYOUNGYAI
^IjfeV
:;i
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi
houses are the occupants, brightly picturesque, while
the little boys and girls run naked. Pigeons and
poultry, geese and dogs are everywhere, inside and
underneath the houses, and the hot air is full of sweet
nastiness from the Burmese kitchens. Generally
speaking, the houses are more or less in line, forming
streets, which are now busy with returning bullock
gharries and driven cattle coming home for the night, as
it is not safe for cattle to be left outside after sunset.^
The dak bungalow lies outside the town, among a
number of ruined pagodas, and stands in a stockade
of its own. It is built much in the same manner as
the Burmese huts, but is mainly composed of wood
and stands higher. A flight of steps leads to the
verandah, which is about lo feet above the ground.
This verandah forms the general living room, out of
which are two bedrooms, each with a bath-room attached.
The kitchen, stables, and servants' quarters are built in
the compound outside. These daks are built by the
Government for the use of travellers, and have usually a
Durwan or Kansammah in charge, and are supplied with
such utensils as are absolutely necessary for comfort.
^ All villages in Burma are stockaded, usually by a thorn zariba, or, in
the case of hill villages, by chevaux-de-frise.
On each side is a gate made of heavy planks of teak, which run on
wheels, and are by law closed at nightfall as a protection against both wild
animals and dacoits. The villagers are compelled to keep guard at night,
when no stranger is allowed to enter the village. Keeping guard is called
"kin," the guard himself "kinthamah," and by the gate is usually erected
a little booth, which serves as his sentry-box and is called "kinteaine."
These stockades, overgrown as they usually are by many kinds of flowering
creepers, have a very pretty effect.
43
Burma
The view from the bungalow looking across the
Irrawaddy valley towards the distant Arracan Yomas ^
was exceedingly beautiful, green to the farthest distance
with its first spring foliage.
The name Meegyoungyai, 1 was informed, meant
Alligator water, a title sufficiently appropriate, though
I was later given another explanation, which I believe
to be more correct, and which is certainly quaint enough
to repeat. Long ago, says the legend, a huge alligator
carried away a cow belonging to a poor farmer, who,
in great distress, appealed to the forest " Nats " for
assistance, which was readily forthcoming. One of
these, assuming the form of a monkey, went down to
the river bank and began to disport himself in the trees
which overhung the pool in which the alligator was
lying. Attracted by his antics and chattering, the
alligator slowly came out of the water on to the bank,
the better to watch him, but said nothing. Pretending
to have just discovered the alligator's presence the
monkey poured forth a torrent of derision and abuse
upon him, but still the alligator remained silent.
After a time the monkey suddenly exclaimed : " Why,
it is not an alligator at all, it cannot even laugh."
"Yes, I can," exclaimed the now exasperated saurian,
and opening his wide jaws for that purpose out jumped
the cow, which ran away up the bank into the forest,
and was restored by the Nat to its owner. From that
day the place has been called " Meegyoungyai " or
"Laughing alligator," the word Meegyoung mean-
' " Yoma " means literally " backbone."
44
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi
ing alligator, and the terminal syllable, ye or yai,
meaning " water or laughter," a very slight difference
of intonation being the only possible difference between
the two interpretations.
At one time Meegyoungyai must have been a
town of some importance, a large number of pagodas
still remaining, while far beyond the limits of the
present village may be found traces of larger theins,
shrines, and monastic buildings, so ruinous as to
be hardly distinguishable among the undergrowth.
One of these " kyaungs " is still occupied, and I
was greatly struck by a pretty ceremony which takes
place daily.
The sun had just set, and while preparing for our
evening meal, the sound of a deep-toned gong stole
through the warm air ; before its reverberations had
ceased first one and then another was sounded, until per-
haps twenty or more gongs of different pitches, but all
with that purity of tone distinctive of the Burmese
bronzes, combined in one swelling and melodious even-
song. I inquired as to its meaning, and was informed
that this was the usual " pyashikoh," the habits of the
monastery being as follows. At first break of dawn all
the priests, novices, and pupils assemble for prayer, after
which the boys are occupied with their lessons. Meals
are taken at 7 and 11.30 a.m., the priests being for-
bidden to touch food from 1 2 noon until after morning
prayers the next day, the pupils, however, having
their meals as usual. The day's work being finished,
priests and pupils assemble in their different kyaungs,
45
Burma
and to the sound of the first gong the lessons learned
during the day are repeated. A second gong is the signal
for general prayer ; the third, in which all the gongs in
the different monasteries are struck together, is the final
Amen, and after this silence.
The day's work begins early in Burma : our usual
custom was to take our chota hazri by candle-light at
4.30 or 5 A.M., so as to be ready for a start at the first
flush of dawn, and, as all animals rest between ten and
four o'clock, our journeys had to be made in the early
morning or in the cool of the evening.
Leaving Meegyoungyai in the grey dawn our road
lay over the Yomas, a gradually ascending track of
land covered with scrub jungle, and, excepting for
occasional patches of Indian corn and sessamine,
entirely uncultivated. There were few trees, and as
the sun rose higher the dust and heat became very
trying, no shade of any kind being obtainable. The
grass was sunburnt and brown, and on the higher levels
the few trees there were, were already in their autumn
foliage. The scrub, however, was still green, and
though the scenery generally could hardly be called
beautiful, it had an interest to me in its strange
flowers, new growths, birds and butterflies, which robbed
the dusty journey of some of its tedium. Through
the jungle enormous herds of cattle are roaming, all
draught animals turned loose by their owners until
required for transport purposes. All the cattle in the
fields wear bells ; sometimes these are of bronze, but
more generally of hard wood made in the form of an
46
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi
oblong box, in which hang four or more clappers.
These serve the double purpose of locating the cattle
as well as frightening away snakes as they browse. It
was a lonely country, almost devoid of inhabitants, and
one which dacoits were known to frequent. Indeed,
the day before I rode over it a Government convoy had
been attacked and robbed of several thousand pounds
by a band in the vicinity. During our ride we met a
second convoy consisting of two or three bullock-carts
guarded by an escort of Sikhs. On approaching us
bayonets were fixed, and with a great show of alertness
the proper military salute was given. Otherwise we
met little on the road except an occasional bullock
train driven by Burmans, who in each case were polite
enough to draw up their carts until we had passed lest
we should be smothered in the dust. Altogether it is
a hot and tedious journey, and I was very glad at the
end of thirteen miles to reach the dak bungalow of
Thityahgouk, pleasantly situated among green fields
900 feet above the sea level.
Though the ride from Meegyoungyai remains in
my mind as the least interesting I made in Burmah,
certain interesting facts recall themselves as I write.
It was curious, for instance, to find in a district so
sparsely inhabited and practically devoid of cultivation,
a large number of pagodas, many semi-ruined and
covered with creepers, and occasionally a yellow-robed
priest praying at the shrine.
Here also I made acquaintance with the cutch tree,
rather to my cost. My pony was flagging under the
47
Burma
hot sun, and thinking a switch might aid matters, I
rode up to a tree densely clothed with feathery foliage
in order to break off a branch for the purpose. The
hidden branches proved to be covered with a multi-
tude of fine thorns, and I was obliged to let my pony
wander on at his own pace while I devoted my attention
to my lacerated fingers.
Among other trees I noticed was the teak, and one
which I took to be blue gum, and cactus and aloes were
plentiful. There were a fair number of birds, including
doves, hoopoes, miners, wagtails, woodpeckers, green
pigeons, and blue jays, and at Thityahgouk I saw a
new species in the shape of a white vulture, occupied
in tearing the dead leaves from off a toddy palm for
nesting purposes.
In contrast to the dusty road we had just traversed,
the view from the bungalow at Thityahgouk was like a
glimpse of the promised land. From its high position
on the crest of the Yomas the scene was an extended
one. At our feet was the little village, so completely
surrounded by its vine-covered barricade that only the
highest roofs were visible from the outside. Beyond
was a sea of foliage, forest trees covering ridge after
ridge like green billows, over which the eye roamed
from point to point delightedly.
In the distance, over this succession of verdure-clad
hills, was the valley of the Sittang, plainly marked by
the filmy haze which hung above the river. Beyond,
the land rose in a further succession of hills, gradually
becoming bluer as the distance grew, until on the
48
;i. I. '»;:->! ^\:>]J--
SCRUB JUNGLE
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi
farthest horizon, and across the watershed of the
Salween could be plainly seen the crest of a noble
mountain, which I was told was situated in Siam, 120
miles away. It was a splendid panorama seen under
the best conditions, the air having been cleared by
heavy showers which had fallen during the day, while
the shadows of the monsoon clouds which hung above
the land gave relief to its undulations.
We spent the night here in the dak bungalow,
where I was fortunate in meeting Mr. Long, a forest
officer, who in our short evening together gave me a
great deal of valuable instruction upon forestry, a subject
upon which I have found great difficulty in obtaining
accurate information. Unfortunately he was bound
for Magwe, a day's ride in the opposite direction to
my own, and I have not since had the pleasure or
benefit of his companionship.
A rather tiring ride of twenty miles brought me to
Taungdwingyi, the road being well metalled and rather
harder going than the looser tracks of the jungle, but
throughout well fringed with fine trees, and very much
like a good country road in Somerset or Cheshire.
At frequent intervals along the roadside were little
thatched receptacles on poles called " yaiohzin," in which
were jars of drinking water, the water-pots being kept
constantly replenished by those living in the vicinity as
an " act of merit." The drinking-cup is usually formed
of polished cocoa-nut shell, with a long handle of some
hard wood.
I noticed also that the distances were marked by
49 7
Burma
wooden posts every quarter of a mile, and this appeared
to be the general rule on made roads throughout the
country. By walking one mile and cantering the next
we made good time, and in the early afternoon arrived
at the comfortable and roomy bungalow of the Bom-
bay-Burma Trading Corporation, on the outskirts of
Taungdwingyi.
During these two days I made my first personal
acquaintance with the Burman, for, with the exception of
my own Indian servant, all our attendants were natives
of the country.
I was much struck with the innate politeness which
characterised them, their services being rendered quite
naturally, and more with the air of an equal wishing to
honour his guest than with the obsequiousness of the
hireling, though at the same time with complete respect.
Their voices, too, are pleasant, and their movements in
the house and in attending to our wants at table had
much of the natural grace of women. Indeed, so much
is this the case at times, that, were it not for the head
scarf which they wear, an adornment which the women
do not affect, it would sometimes be difficult in the
case of young men to determine their sex. I have been
told, though with what truth I cannot say, that the uni-
versal custom of the male Burman to be tattooed from
the waist to just above the knee was ordered by a former
king in order to facilitate the instant recognition of the
sexes. Whatever its origin, however, the custom exists,
and many of the patterns with which their limbs are
adorned are of the most ornate description.
50
Across the Yomas to Taungdwingyi
This ride also served to introduce me to the
Burmese pony, which I found to be a hardy and sure-
footed little beast, much like the Iceland pony in
character, but like him badly bred. That fine ponies
may be bred in Burma the large number of smart polo
ponies to be found in Mandalay and elsewhere is ample
proof, but, speaking generally, the ponies met with in
the country are utterly lacking in points of breeding,
and are often undersized. The Government recognises
the importance of improving the breed, though the sum
of Rs.3000 allowed annually to further this object is
totally inadequate, and shows that it has hardly realised
the importance of the question to a country where
railways are few and journeys are so largely made by
road or forest paths.
The Burmese appear to be fond of their animals and,
so far as I have seen, treat them well. One curious and
cruel custom came under my notice here, however.
After a journey the native administers a strong counter-
irritant to fatigue in the shape of eye medicine, some
irritating preparation being applied to the eyes of
elephants, bullocks, and ponies after a hard day's work.
These preparations are of various kinds, such as Chili
pepper, ginger, or salt, powdered, and wet with spirits ;
cloves and pepper, sometimes nutmeg, and asafoetida
are also used, in fact almost anything calculated to make
the animal's eye smart.
With regard to their ponies, the Burmans' pride
seems to be in their tails, the length of which
regulates the price asked. An instance occurred in
51
Burma
Taungdwingyl which exemplifies this. During a " deal "
between a Burman and an Englishman the price
demanded was palpably excessive, the Burman laying
great stress upon the length of its hirsute adornment.
In a momentary spirit of mischief the Englishman
quickly docked the pony's tail, exclaiming, " Now, will
you take my offer ^ " " Take it away," cried the native
in despair ; " it is no use to any one now " ; and he
was then quite willing to accept almost any sum offered,
though the figure was eventually fixed at a fair and
reasonable sum.
52
CHAPTER IV
IN A BURMESE MARKET TOWN
Still a village of considerable size, Taungdwingyi
must at one time have been an important place, judging
by the remains of its ancient walls and fortifications,
and the large number of religious buildings, now
mostly in a ruinous condition. The village is pictur-
esque, and its approaches particularly are pretty. The
roads are bounded by deep ditches, full during the
monsoon, though now almost dry ; these are spanned
by quaint wooden bridges, which lead to the dwellings
of the natives. The streets are wide and grass grown,
and form delightful pony tracks, of which the Burman
is not slow to avail himself, and many trotting matches
take place in these quiet thoroughfares. Trees abound
in and about the village, avenues of banyan and tamarind
alternating with groves of toddy palms.
The people are simply though nicely dressed, and
the scenes on the road as they come and go are most
characteristic. I never failed to experience a feeling
of pleasurable surprise on seeing a daintily clad girl
emerge from some humble thatched hut, looking so
bright and clean, and arranging her silken scarf round
53
Burma
her neck, or giving the final pat to her well-dressed
hair before starting upon her promenade or errand.
These people have so much that is innately pretty in
their composition that nature itself seems to be beauti-
fied by their presence, and even the poorest have a
peculiar faculty for arranging and wearing their simple
garments to advantage.
I spent a week or more in this delightful village,
the first I had actually lived in, and look back upon my
time with sincerest pleasure. Its resident magistrate,
Mr. Hill, did everything possible to assist my work
and make my visit pleasant, while my friends of the
Bombay -Burma Trading Corporation, Messrs. Mac-
lennan, Smythe, and Skeene, were indefatigable in their
efforts to ensure my comfort.
The homes of the people were much as I have
already described, but I had more leisure here in which
to notice their daily habits and occupations.
In the streets are the children playing with the " pi "
dogs or making mud pies in the puddles. Little toy
carts and peg-tops amuse some, while the boys are
very fond of kite-flying ; but not content with simply
winding the line round a stick, as our urchins do, they
use a large drum revolving on a handle, rather like a
magnified fishing reel. Toy boats and marbles are
other amusements aflTected in the intervals of school,
where squatting in rows upon the floor the lesson is
recited in a sing-song manner, much after the fashion
of our own board schools.
Through the open front of the houses the passer-
54
A VILLAGE SHOP
In a Burmese Market Town
by has many a pleasant glimpse of domesticity. In
one, slung on cords from the roof beams, hangs a
wicker cradle (called a " paket "), in which a pretty
young mother gently rocks her child to sleep. Before
another, or in some grassy lane, a would-be toddler
receives its first lesson in walking ; all the young
infants I noticed were carried astride the shoulder, as
in Egypt. Young women come and go bearing pots
of water or bundles of firewood, while their elders sit
at their thresholds stitching up cotton "lungyis," or
the more ornate silk " petsoe."
Attached to the houses is often a " lean-to " shed, in
which cooking operations are carried on, and as usual
in the space between the ground and the floor the live
stock of the establishment finds its habitation.
Here also is one of the best - ordered and most
interesting jails I have ever inspected, in which Mr.
Hill took a very pardonable pride. Everything about
the place was beautifully kept, and clean to a degree,
while even the inner courtyards were planted with
crotons and vegetables, only the well-kept gravel walks
being used for prisoners' exercise. The jail, by the
way, was more than self-supporting from the sale of its
garden produce and the matting, baskets, and utensils
manufactured by the prisoners.
As usual, the police were Indian military police, and
it happened that their annual musketry training was
going on while I was there. The range was just
outside the town, the butts being part of an old
" bund," and the target composed of a paper screen.
55
Burma
1 found that the men were using smooth-bore Sniders
with round bullets, the charge consisting of 2^ drams
of black powder. Of course such weapons had no
great range, and were very erratic on account of
"windage," but it was surprising what good practice
the men made at 200 and 300 yards, scoring an average
of" inners."
We Europeans took advantage of the targets being
in position to organise a rifle meeting of our own, and
though we used the service rifle and ammunition, I am
afraid we hardly made so good a record as the police-
men with their more primitive arms. It was a very
pleasant episode, however, and I was struck with the
good-fellowship existing among the men, and their
evident aflfection for both the magistrate and their
commanding officer, Mr. O'Donnell.
Close to the range is a secluded hpungyi settlement,
among whose pretty kyaungs are fish ponds overhung
with willows and rich in iris and lily, and, hidden away
among the trees, is an ancient " thein " of strikingly good
design and decoration, built of terra-cotta brick, but
now entirely ruinous. I tried to ascertain something
of its history and date, but no one was able to give me
any information on these points. Behind the town is
a large "jeel," or lake, covered with lotus and sur-
rounded by reedy marsh-land, in which snipe and
wild duck abound, and I gathered that game of many
kinds is to be found in the immediate neighbourhood
of the town, including sine, bison, barking-deer, and
pig-
56
FIRST STEf^S
In a Burmese Market Town
Taungdwingyi, however, has an evil reputation for
snakes, and the police records show an annual mortality
from snake-bite of over 400. Though I had heard so
much of reptile life in Burma I had, so far, not seen a
single snake, and, in spite of a fairly careful search
among its broken masonry and undergrowth, I failed
to find any here. No doubt the noise caused by the
heavy boots worn by the Europeans alarms them, while
the barefooted native, coming upon them unawares, is
too often struck.
A bazaar is held in Taungdwingyi every fifth day,
people coming in from a wide area, together with
numbers of professional peddlers who wander through
the country. Every bazaar, therefore, in addition to
the local population, is frequented by types from
different parts of Burma.
The market-place is a large open space, enclosed by
high wooden palings, within which are several permanent
buildings as well as temporary booths composed of
matting and coloured cloths. These are so arranged
as to divide the market into sections, each more or less
frequented by vendors of the different classes of goods
and produce offered for sale.
All Eastern markets are more or less the same in
general character, but this one struck me as being a
particularly bright and animated scene, in which the
fruit and vegetables exposed for sale were hardly less
vivid in colouring than the costumes of the vendors,
and a distinct local touch was given by the sunshades
of paper or oiled calico carried by the women, or which,
57 8
Burma
stuck into the ground, formed a grateful shelter for the
stallholders.
Among the articles exposed for sale were saffron,
betel nut, bananas, wild pineapples and papaya, as well
as many other fruits and vegetables, among which, by
the way, was the pumpkin-like fruit of the bael tree, the
juice of which is supposed to be very efficacious in
cases of dysentery.
The shops of the permanent buildings contained a
curious assortment of wares : Burmese silks, Manchester
cotton goods, Sheffield hardware, and school books and
pencils from Germany ; curious wooden combs and
pattens, and, what was always a source of special
attraction to the ladies, cheap looking-glasses capable of
a maximum of distortion.
Unwholesome-looking sweetmeats and cakes made
of flour, " toddy," sugar, and spices, excite the wistful
glances of the youngsters, and in all corners of the
bazaar were stalls for the sale of food. In one,
sausages and rice cakes simmer over a little charcoal
fire, while from the next is wafted the delicious smell
of sandalwood as a corrective. Roast meat, cut into
small strips, is spitted on bamboo skewers, which are
stuck all round the rim of a basket containing what
at first sight appeared to be candles of unusual size.
These, however, prove to be " sticks " of rice prepared
in a curious way. A special kind of rice called
" kowknyin " is placed in a green bamboo, together with
a little water, the bamboo then being closed with a plug
and put into the fire ; by the time the bamboo is dried
58
MARKET-PLACE AT TAUNGDWING YI
TW«l'"ii "^-^it* ^fii™ > »
In a Burmese Market Town
and commences to burn the rice is cooked. The
bamboo is then split, and the rice, beautifully cooked, is
extracted in the compact form aforesaid.
Another curious dish I noticed was composed of
flowers and red ants. The flowers are plucked when
covered with ants, which feed upon them ; they are then
put into salt and water and used as a flavouring for curry
and other dishes. This also is supposed to have
medicinal properties, particularly in the case of rheum-
atism and at child-birth. This dish is very sour in
flavour, and is called " thargin."
One corner of the market was given up to the
sale of earthen cooking pots, their bright terra-cotta
contrasting well with the costumes and the greenish-
grey baskets of bamboo which lie in all directions.
Some of these baskets are of enormous size, and the
designs of all are quaint and at times elegant. Another
portion is occupied by the country carts, covered with
their hoods of " tayan," and beneath whose shade the
idlers of the market sleep.
Hpungyis, bearing a receptacle of burnished brass
or vermilion lacquer, wander through the serried ranks
collecting " sun " to the sound of a gong, while Karens
and Shans, Chins and Kachins, as well as natives of
India, give additional variety to a motley throng, which,
however, is mostly purely Burman.
Although I had an interpreter with me, my ignorance
of the language unfortunately prevented my full enjoy-
ment of much of the humour of the bazaar. I was
attracted, however, by the singular appearance of a
59
Burma
middle-aged man, who, squatting on the ground, was
dispensing medicaments. His hair was coiled very
much on the side of the head, around which was wound
his coloured " goun^boung," ^ one end of which hung
over his ear in a jaunty manner, which belied his apparent
age. He proved to be the village doctor, and the
strange wares spread upon the cloth before him were
no less curious than his own appearance. These con-
sisted of boars' tusks and bits of bone, dried herbs,
coloured stones, and the bark of various trees, little
bottles containing powders and strange compounds,
and various charms which, if I were to describe them,
would, I fear, shock the susceptibilities of many of my
readers, but from which 1 judged that his were largely
faith cures based upon superstition. Here, in contrast,
comes a lady arrayed in silks and attended by her
companion, daintily testing the qualities of the fabrics
she wishes to buy ; yet she is not above a vigorous use
of the vulgate in the negotiations necessary to the
occasion. In another place I saw a withered old lady
dispensing a stew from a large pot by her side ; while
conversing with her neighbours, a pony browsing
through the market-place thrust his dusty nose under
her arm into the pot, and managed to swallow a fair
quantity of the contents. Hitting him on the muzzle
with her ladle, the old lady indignantly waved the pony
away, exclaiming, " Get away, pony, what do you think
you are playing at } " and then calmly proceeded with
the sale of her concoction, which was apparently con-
' Turban.
60
In a Burmese Market Town
sidered none the worse for the pony's intrusion. All
over the place crows and hawks vie with " pi " dogs
and half-naked urchins in scrambling for odd tit-bits,
and almost above the hum of voices sounds the buzzing
of flies as they struggle in the sticky sweetmeats.
After the glare of the open market it was pleasant
to enter the central building, in which silks and the
finer fabrics are mostly sold. It was very cool and
shady, and at the junction of its four arcades is a large
fountain, where the sound of the splashing water serves
to increase a sense of coolness and refreshment.
Taungdwingyi is a great centre of the manufacture
and the sale of silk, and at nearly every stall silks of
different colours figure largely. These stalls are usually
kept by women of good social standing, who, almost
without exception, were good-looking and graceful.
They did not appear to me, however, to be very intent
on selling their goods, many of them being more
occupied with their toilet, aided by one of the small
mirrors aforesaid. The local silk, by the way, is of
exceptionally fine quality, and I made several purchases
here, which I have altogether failed to match in London.
One might go on indefinitely describing the incidents
of a village bazaar, and indeed it would be difficult to
convey any adequate impression of a scene in which
were combined brilliant colour, interesting faces, strange
occupations, bustle and movement in bewildering con-
fusion.
Altogether I found this bazaar most attractive, and
I made many sketches here ; one corner only I found
6i
Burma
was to be avoided, and that was the portion of the
market allocated to the butchers, who were nearly
always natives of India, the Burmese being forbidden
by their religion to take life in any form. A butcher's
shop is never a very attractive sight, but here, in the
hot air, alive with flies, meat surely never looked less
attractive, while underneath and about the stalls " pi "
dogs snarled and quarrelled for the garbage. The
Burmans, however, are not squeamish, and were eager
customers. Indeed, such is their greed for flesh that
they consume every portion of the carcase, the in-
testines included.^
My time in Taungdwingyi passed all too quickly ;
I found it an exceedingly agreeable place in which to
work, while the companionship aflbrded by the few
Europeans resident in the village was very pleasant.
On most afternoons I was accompanied by one of my
friends, and it became a habit with us when work was
finished for the day to drop into Mr. Hill's house, where,
whether he was at home or not, " pegs " would always
be brought to us by his bearer, while we lounged on
long chairs on the verandah and amused ourselves with
his gramophone. I never before realised the power of
amusement embodied in this somewhat despised in-
strument, yet, as we were far away from other forms of
entertainment, a banjo quartette or a song from an
"" ^ Later on, in the forest, I heard also of cases where elephants which
had died of anthrax and been buried, had been afterwards exhumed and
feasted upon by Burmans ! — disgusting orgies, to put a stop to which the
Bombay-Burma Trading Corporation now in all cases cremate the bodies
of any animals which may happen to die, from any cause whatever.
62
A BURMESE HAMLET
In a Burmese Market Town
opera, even as rendered by a gramophone, was a real
source of enjoyment.
In Taungdwingyi also I experienced one of those
delightful rencontres which are among the many attrac-
tions of travel. I had, just as usual, come in from my
day's work when a new arrival appeared in the shape of
a mud-bespattered and very hot " shikarri," just come in
from a day's snipe-shooting. I was rather surprised to
hear the exclamation : " Hullo, Kelly, who expected to
see you here ! " I then discovered him to be Captain
Moffut, of the King's Own Scottish Borderers, then
stationed at Thayetmyo, whose friendship I had made
many years ago when his regiment was quartered in
Egypt. We had a long chat over old friends and
places, followed by an invitation to visit his mess when
next I was on the river, — an invitation I warmly
accepted, and of which I was fortunately able to avail
myself shortly afterwards.
While waiting for the preparations for our forest
journey to be • completed, my friends had arranged a
" pwe " for me, which was given on the last evening 1
spent at Taungdwingyi.
These " pwes " are the national plays of Burma, and
are of three kinds : —
1. The zappwe, or drama, in which men and
women perform.
2. The hanpwe, or ballets.
3. The yotthepwe, or marionettes.
Of these, the second is entirely performed by young
girls, amateurs, who, dressed in court costumes, per-
63
Burma
form the conventional dance of Burma to the ac-
companiment of an orchestra, which I will presently
describe. Their drill is perfect, and their sense of
time and rhythm as they move together quite extra-
ordinary. This performance always takes place during
the day, and is considered one of the most beautiful
pageants in Burma.
The performance arranged on my behalf, however,
was the zappwe, or drama, performed by professional
actors engaged by the hosts.
In the compound in front of the bungalow a rough
stage of bamboo draped with coloured cloths had been
erected, and towards sun-down people began to arrive
for the performance, every one being welcome on these
occasions. Practically all the village came, some walk-
ing, some driving, and took up their positions in a
large semicircle facing the stage, in the centre of which
chairs had been placed for us.
By 7.30 (dinner-time) the performers arrived, and
commenced to dress for their parts in front of the large
audience which had gathered, the tedium of waiting
being further relieved by the tuning of the instruments
of the orchestra.
As these " pwes " continue for an interminable length
of time, the outside of this ring of spectators gradually
assumed the appearance of a bazaar. Fires were lit
and stalls erected for the sale of hot coffee, cakes,
curry and rice, and a variety of stews. Outside these
was a ring of bullock-gharries occupied by women of
superior position, with their children, many of whom
64
In a Burmese Market Town
were quite naked, others being simply wrapped up irk
a lungyi.
Next to the stage were the musicians, eight in
number, now busy tuning up. The instruments used
are peculiar and deserve description. First is the
" sine," a circular " tub " with perforated and carved
sides, round the inside of which are suspended on
strings two octaves of drums, or tom-toms, covered
with black goat skin. These are tuned by clay being
squeezed on to the skin until the right pitch is reached.
The skilful manner in which the operator manages the
clay is interesting to watch, and it forms a pretty
pattern in white upon the dark skin. These drums
are called "patlongyi," and are played with the flat of
the fingers, the musician sitting in the middle of the
ring. The " chenoungwine " is a similar instrument,
which stands higher and in which circular bronze gongs
take the place of the drums. Each of these gongs, or
" chenoung," is tuned by pouring from behind a little
melted wax into a boss or projection in the centre^
Once tuned they retain their pitch, and the other
instruments are periodically attuned to them. Here
also the player sits in the middle of the gongs, which
entirely encircle him, and uses a small drumstick, with
which, by a quick backward turn of the wrist, he
strikes those behind him with equal facility to the others.
There is also a big drum called " patmagyi," and the
smaller " boundouk," both of which are struck with
the open palm ; large cymbals called " legwin," and a
smaller pair called " thanlwin." The " waletkok " is a
65 9
Burma
clapper made of bamboo, and the full band of eight is
completed by the " hne," a reed instrument rather like
a flageolet, but with a large bell mouth of brass. The
tone of this " trumpet " is rather strident, but, modi-
fied by the^ softer and more melodious "sine" and
** chenoungwine," the orchestra combined in producing
music, which, if somewhat barbaric, was pleasing in its
general effect, and I think quite the best Eastern music
I had heard.
After half an hour's overture the play began, but as
it was performed in court language, which few but
Burmans can understand, my friends were unable to
give me a very accurate interpretation of the play,
though sufficient to enable me to understand the plot,
which in this case was as follows.
A prince was informed by his minister that in a
certain far-distant town, in which was a famous shrine,
there dwelt a girl of very great beauty. He decided
to journey thither, ostensibly to make a pilgrimage to
the shrine, but in reality to see the young woman.
She happened to be of low degree, he a prince ;
but, hearing that he had travelled all that distance in
order to admire her beauty, she made violent love to
him. He was at first unresponsive, but eventually
succumbing to her charms took her away with him to
his own home. His female relations, however, discover-
ing his mesalliance, and (here is the sting) that he had
paid her debts, became very angry and ill-treated the
girl shamefully.
She, however, like another Griselda, submitted to all
66
A STREET IN TAUNGDWINGYI
In a Burmese Market Town
this persecution with so much sweetness and patience,
that in the end even the female relations themselves
were compelled to admire so much virtue, and, learn-
ing to love the girl, commended the prince's judgment,
and everything ended happily.
Scenery there was none, and all the players were on
the stage together, whether they were in the scene or
not, those who were " unemployed " placidly smoking
until they had to respond to their cues, when the cigar
would be handed to another to be kept alight until
their act was over. The characters in the play are
generally the same — a prince, a princess, and chief clown
as principals, with minor characters representing good
and evil spirits, with, I think, always some representation
of a dragon. The plots are almost always a narrative
of wrongs patiently borne by the injured lady, whose
long-suffering is eventually rewarded by complete
happiness. The performance itself consists largely of
singing and dancing, most of which is allotted to the
princess, who is often " on " for hours at a stretch.
The singing is not unmusical, and the dancing very
quaint, consisting largely of a slow shuffling along the
stage on the flat of the foot, with an occasional back-
ward kick with the heel. Meanwhile the arms are
gesticulating in a most extraordinary manner, the play
of hands and wrists being an especially noticeable point.
The humour of the play naturally devolved upon the
chief clown, whose remarks are, I hear, usually witty,
though with the inevitable touch of immorality.
During the dialogues, as well as in song accompani-
67
Burma
ment, the incidental music was distinctly good I
thought, and in the open air at any rate the combined
tone of the orchestra was melodious.
The great attraction to me, however, lay in the
character studies offered by the audience. All ages
and social grades were represented. Very old people
crouched over their cigars or huddled together in the
cold night air, while naked babies lay in the laps of
their gaily dressed mothers, who laughed and chatted
with native officials or half-clad coolies. I noticed one
little boy, standing bolt upright, who proved to be fast
asleep, and towards midnight many of the elders also
became drowsy, and would take it in turns to have
a short nap, having previously arranged with their
neighbours that they should be aroused when certain
particularly interesting episodes occurred.
The whole scene, illuminated by the flickering light
•of the stage lamps and camp fires, was very fascinating,
and it was some time after midnight before I could
bring myself to leave it. The play, however, continued
till after 2 a.m.,^ and I learned next day that the leading
lady was on the boards the whole of the time !
* These " pwes," I hear, often continue for a whole day, or even two.
68
CHAPTER V
JUNGLE LIFE AT KOKOGON
I WAS very sorry to leave Taungdwingyi, where every
moment of my time had been pleasantly employed,
though my regret was somewhat modified by anticipations
of the forest life before me, and the fact that two of my
friends, Maclennan and Smythe, were to accompany me.
Leaving the bungalow at sunset, a two-hours' ride
in the starlight brought us to Sathwa. The road, so
called by courtesy, was terribly bad, and riding would
have been difficult even by daylight, as the track (for it
was little else) had been so badly cut up by cart wheels
during the rains, which were only just over, that it
was scored in all directions by ruts a foot or more in
depth, which the sun of the last few days had baked as
hard as bricks. Added to this was the fact that on
either side were dense masses of jungle and forest
growths, which effectually impeded what little light
there was, and hid these pitfalls in an impenetrable
gloom. I consider that it was more by good luck than
anything else that we got through without an accident
or damage to the ponies. However, we reached the
69
Burma
dak safely about 9 p.m., and turned in early, preparatory
to our start at sunrise.
I was interested during the ride to hear our Burmese
attendants singing at the pitch of their voices, an ebulli-
tion which I attributed to pure light-heartedness until
I noticed that they sang loudest where the road was
darkest. In reply to my inquiry, Maclennan informed
me that the men were singing, " not for the fun of
it," but in order to frighten away the " Nats." This
superstitious feeling I found accounted for another fact
which had attracted my attention. When moving, the
Burmese carts are always accompanied by a horrible
groaning and squeaking of the wheels ; I suggested a
little grease on the axles, but learned that they preferred
to have it so, as the noise, which travelled an immense
distance in the still air, not only wards off the evil spirits
of the forest, but also serves as a warning to their
wives at home that the " master " was homeward bound,
and would shortly be in want of his supper !
The dak at Sathwa was much as others, except that
the flooring boards were set so far apart that we experi-
enced as much breeze from underneath as from the
open verandah, and one had to be careful as to the
position of the legs of chairs or camp bed, and as a
matter of fact, while taking my bath, both sponge and
soap dropped between the boards and had to be sought
for below by candle-light.
The following morning elephants had arrived and
were loaded up with our baggage and sent off, we
following a little later on pony-back.
70
A DAK BUNGALOW
Jungle Life at Kokogon
A fatiguing journey through " paddy " fields, scrub
jungle, and occasional forest patches, lay between us
and Kokogon, in the heart of the forest itself, and to be
my headquarters for the time being.
Travelling was slow and tedious owing to the absence
of roads. In the cultivated lands the only pathway
consisted of the tortuous little bunds or dykes which
separated the irrigated patches, while in the forest dense
undergrowth, largely of thorns and creepers, impeded
progress and made riding difficult.
I was very much surprised at the speed with which
the elephants covered the ground. Through the difficult
" paddy " land they were quicker than the ponies. In
some places the bunds were very narrow and slippery,
while every here and there were little creeks crossed by
a single log, or else by means of a ford in which the
ponies floundered heavily in mud a couple of feet or
more in depth, yet in every case the elephants nego-
tiated these difficult crossings more comfortably than
the ponies.
The " paddy " was ripe and harvesting in full
operation. The Burmans use sickles for reaping, cut-
ting the straw half-way up so as to gather some and
yet leave enough for the cattle in the fields to browse
upon. The rice is bound into sheaves with a " strap,"
as at home, and is later on carted to the " talin " or
threshing-floor, where, in the usual Eastern manner,
the grain is trodden out by bullocks. Winnowing is
performed by means of a circular tray, about two feet in
diameter, which is tossed into the air with a rotary
71
Burma
motion, so as to set all its contents spinning, the chafF
being blown away while the grain falls at the operator's
feet.
At every halt innumerable claims were presented by
the villagers for the value of the rice consumed by the
elephants on the road. In most cases these claims
were for quantities far beyond the animals' power of
consumption, and after a little good-humoured badinage,
were easily compounded for half the original sum
demanded. In one case, however, the native appeared
to be quite clear as to the justice of his claim, and,
scouting the idea of any compromise, exclaimed, " You
may cut my throat if I am telling a lie ! "
His claim was paid in full, and I noticed that
in all their dealings with them the employees of
the Corporation gave the natives the benefit of the
doubt, and no matter at what cost made it a matter of
principle to keep faith with them.
That such an attitude is honourable and wise goes
without saying, and it has its reward in the friendly
relationship existing between the "jungle wallah " and
his subordinates. I one day heard a native remark to
a stranger, "We have to shikoh to the Government
official who eats our money, but we like to shikoh to
the Bombay-Burma Thakins whose money we eat,"
and I may say that, during the weeks I spent in riding
through the forest I had frequent demonstrations of
the esteem and respect in which the Corporation and
their agents were held by natives of all classes.
The country through which we had passed was
72
Jungle Life at Kokogon
extremely pretty in Its general effect, — immense tracts
of " paddy " land, interspersed with trees, among which
were the villages of the peasants, in many cases sur-
rounded by groves of bananas and other fruit-trees,
while large pools, overgrown with lotus, were a common
feature.
The moisture in the saturated land, sucked up by
the powerful sun, filled the air with an impalpable mist
which enveloped the landscape in a silver haze, and
gave to its features a suggestiveness which was charm-
ing. Distances which were not really great appeared to
be immense, and the sun, shining through the laden
atmosphere, glorified even the monotony of the rice-
fields with opalescent tints, amidst which the brighdy
coloured costumes of the natives shone like jewels.
This silvery curtain, which lends such enchantment to
the commonplace, I found to be general in the cultivated
lands, and during the few hours of its continuance it
seems to envelop nature in a poetic glamour diflicult
to describe.
Our entrance into the forest was almost abrupt, the
" paddy " land being succeeded by patches of kaing
grass, bamboo, and a tangled growth of all kinds,
glittering under a hot sun, which caused the steam to
rise from the pools and damp patches of the paths well
into the day. Some of the vistas were very lovely, the
nearer points standing out strongly against a distance
hazy in the hot air, through which our elephants loomed
large and almost phantom-like.
Huge trees of to me as yet strange growths towered
73 10
Burma
above the undergrowth, their individual characteristics
being largely lost in the profusion of creepers which
enveloped them in a uniform habit of leaves and flowers,
and whose sinuous stems winding through the grasses
tripped up our ponies and rendered riding slow and
difficult. Evidently the haunt of game, all we saw on
this march were a few " gyi " or barking deer, which
dashed across our path, though this forest abounds with
tiger, panther, and elephant, while everywhere among
the succulent undergrowth were signs of large herds
of " pig."
Birds there were in plenty, miners, hoopoe, king
crow, jungle fowl and owls, also a large number of
paddy birds, the female of which, I noticed, is not white
but parti-coloured, brown predominating, which makes
her very difficult to find when nesting. Doves were
cooing, and in the nyoung-bin trees the green pigeon
was whistling a melody which Skeene once declared
to be a few bars from The Belle of New York ! There
is one bird, however, which I have met with in
different parts of Burma, but whose species I have
never been able to discover, whose song consists of a
distinct musical phrase of several bars. He is a small
bird, with a liquid note, rich and full, and his song
sounds gloriously beautiful in the often solemn sur-
roundings of the forest.
Squirrels were there in large numbers, disputing
with the monkeys for possession of the nut-trees,
while flitting across the glades flights of parrots flashed
brilliant in the sunlight.
74
DAWN IN THE FOREST
Jungle Life at Kokogon
That wild animals always look their best in their
natural environment is a truism which certainly applies
strongly to the parrot. Seen at home as a caged bird
he has little beauty, and might almost be described as a
grotesque. Here, however, in these primeval forests,
he is a creature of beauty and joy. Hear him whistling
softly to his mate, or exchanging calls with his fellows
as he sits in the topmost bough of a cotton -tree,
200 feet above ground. Every note is flute-like and
coaxing, and, as his song floats downwards towards
you through the sun-bathed air, each note is mellowed
and sweetened on its journey. Or again, as a flock
suddenly launches itself into space, and plays " follow
my leader" through the tree -tops, what could be
prettier than they as their orange beaks and long slender
tails glint in the sunlight ! It is a revel of song and
colour and pure light-heartedness foreign to their caged
and subdued relatives in this country. Here a parrot
is simply a curiosity, there a beautiful creature, suited
to its surroundings, and bringing an air of gladness
and colour into what might otherwise have been an
oppressive exuberance of forest growth.
Curiously enough, there were few insects ; no doubt
as the heat was intense they were lying dormant in the
leafy shades. Butterflies, however, were plentiful and
of great beauty.
I am afraid my recollection of this part of my
journey is not very definite. Being my first intro-
duction to virgin forest, I found it all so strange that
I was content to wonder at its confused beauty and
75
Burma
luxuriance without attempting to make notes, mental
or otherwise ; much of our attention, moreover, had to
be directed to the order of our going.
Travelling in the paddy land had been difficult.
Here, however, it was more so ; the open glades were
often marshy, and under the powerful sun were giving
up steam as late as mid-day. Riding through the
thickets was almost impossible on account of the hidden
creepers which made it difficult for the pony to travel,
and the thorns which lacerated the rider and the beast
indiscriminately, so that of two evils it was usually
better to stick to the open and be grilled, than risk the
difficulties and perhaps dangers of the denser forest.
Few signs of human life disturbed the solitude of
these wilds. Here and there were little clearings
planted in rice or sessamine, over which grotesque
scarecrows stood sentinel, or perhaps an occasional hut
of bamboo and grasses marked the halting-place of
previous travellers ; and once I saw a boy engaged in
snaring wild-fowl by the aid of a decoy cock, the modus
operandi apparently being to tether the bird in a patch
of short grass, where he is surrounded by a circle of
snares composed of twigs, and the forest bird, re-
sponding to his challenge, comes down to fight him and
is caught.
Kokogon was reached at i p.m., and I must confess
that I promptly went to sleep in a chair after tiffin.
Burma is a sleepy country, and the siesta a general
institution for both man and beast, and I always found it
difficult to resist the inclination to sleep in the early
76
ON THE KYOUK-MEE-CHOUNG
Jungle Life at Kokogon
afternoon. It was only by recommencing my work
directly after lunch that I was able to overcome this
feeling of drowsiness, which, however, on one or two
occasions completely mastered me.
Kokogon is practically the centre of a large teak
forest, which was being worked by the Corporation.
Their bungalow, which is some little distance from the
native village, was pleasantly situated in an island of
grass surrounded by dense forest and jungle, and
overlooking the Kyouk-mee-choung, a forest creek or
river, where a number of elephants were at work
clearing a " pone " of logs brought down by the last
freshet.
Behind the bungalow were storehouses, stables, and
the huts of the woodmen, among which moved the
wives and children of the foresters bringing in sticks,
and kindling fires preparatory to cooking the evening
meal. Below us, in the shade of the bungalow, our
ponies were being attended to and the baggage un-
loaded from the elephants.
Later in the afternoon all the elephants at work in the
creek, twelve in all with three calves, came in for their
evening feed : a picturesque sight, as each, mounted by
its "oozi,"i came to the steps of the bungalow to
" salaam," and perhaps receive a " tit-bit," before pro-
ceeding to the lines where rows of buckets containing
rice are waiting ready for them. After feeding, the
elephants go down to the creek to bathe before being
turned into the jungle for the night. Very pretty was
^ Driver.
n
Burma
the scene, as the declining sun caught the red cliffs
which formed the river's banks, and lit up the mixed
foliage of the forest with a ruddy light, to which the
deep gloom of the shades offered a striking contrast.
As the sun, red and glorious, slowly disappeared behind
the trees, crickets and frogs began their evensong,
while in the distance the trumpeting of an elephant, or
the impatient squeal of a calf which had temporarily lost
its mother, were the only sounds to break the solemn
hush which comes over the forest at sun -down.
Presently, as the evening breeze rustled through the
tree-tops, the cry of the jackal and hoot of the owl
broke the stillness, and the rising moon completed the
poetic feeling of a scene which combined so much of
suggestion with its solemn beauty.
Altogether the day's experience had been of extreme
if somewhat bewildering interest. Many sharp contrasts
had presented themselves on the way, culminating in
this rich forest scenery, which as yet I had hardly begun
to understand, so entirely different was it from any-
thing I had hitherto seen. Beautiful but impressive,
solitary yet alive, I felt that I must discover many of
its secrets before I could hope to fully appreciate its
fascination myself or pen an adequate description for
my friends.
Darkness drove me back to the bungalow, where
dinner awaited three hungry men, and a runner was
preparing to start back upon his two-days' journey
through the jungle, to post our letters at Taung-
dwingyi.
78
ELEPHANTS CLEARING A "PONE OF LOGS AT
KOKOGON
Jungle Life at Kokogon
I am often asked how we fared in the jungle. Here
is our menu for this first night : —
Mulligatawny soup.
Cod's roe.
Fricassee of chicken.
Steak and onions, and
potatoes.
Chip potatoes.
Roast chicken, bread sauce
and crumbs.
Curry and rice.
Cold York ham.
Carlsbad plums.
We had also bread, and butter in tins (usually in
a liquid state, however), and though as we travelled
farther fresh provisions gave out, the thoughtfulness
displayed by my friends in selecting stores, and the
cleverness of our servants in contriving, provided meals
as varied and generally as palatable as this one, jungle
fowl or deer taking the place of chicken, and biscuits
that of bread. Vegetables became a difficulty, however,
for though the villagers would bring presents of fruit
and eggs, we seldom got anything in the shape of
green food.
While we were at dinner the men had brought in
several elephant-loads of logs and lit a huge bonfire in
front of the verandah, and as the nights are cold we
gathered round it gratefully. In its fitful light, and
surrounded by the blackness of the forest, I took my
first hand at bridge, but as there were only three of
us, and none of us was quite sure of the rules applying
to perpetual dummy,' the game became a little confused,
though it served to pass the evening very happily till
our early bedtime.
The first flush of dawn found us up and preparing
79
Burma
for our day's work, the suddenness and extraordinary
glory of the sunrise as it almost instantly suffused the
sky denying the apparent incongruity of Kipling's
line, " the dawn comes up like thunder," which I now
see to aptly describe a phenomenon which is almost
startling. Half an hour later every one was at work, I
at my painting, the elephants and jungle wallahs with
their logs.
Without wishing to attempt a long dissertation upon
teak-growing or forestry generally, it will, I think, be of
interest if I give a short description of the nature of
the work upon which so many of our young men are
engaged in the forests of Burma.
As is perhaps generally known, teak, pyingado (iron-
wood tree), and several other species are " protected "
by the Government, their extraction being sanctioned
under certain well-defined rules. Pyingado is too
heavy to be profitably worked except locally for the
purpose of railway sleepers, and the attention of the
great firms is entirely devoted to the extraction of teak,
licenses for which are granted, and zones or " forests "
allotted to them in consideration of the rather heavy
royalties charged upon the logs marketed. Each of
these forests is managed by a representative of the firm
concerned, assisted by several subordinates who super-
vise the work being carried on ; the selection of trees to
be felled, however, rests entirely with the Government
forest officer, and is made with proper regard to the
replenishment of the forests under his control.
The trees selected are "girdled" by cutting a ring
80
Jungle Life at Kokogon
through the bark and sapwood until the hard wood is
entered, the result being that, cut ofF from any supply
of moisture from the roots, the tree dies, and the bark,
leaves, and twigs having fallen off, the naturally
seasoned tree is felled at from two to three years
after girdling. The trees are reckoned first or second
class trees according to their size, the former being
from 6 to 7 feet and the latter about 4J feet
in girth, their ages varying from 2S ^^ ^^"^ years,
I believe. The teak is a handsome tree, straight-
stemmed, as a rule, branching much like an acacia at
about 25 or 30 feet from the ground. Its leaves are
very large, shaped like an elm but smoother, and they
have a purple blossom which stands up from among
the foliage, remaining on the tree for a considerable
time after the leaf has fallen.
After felling, the difficult work of transport begins.
In many cases the logs lie in inaccessible parts of the
forest, which necessitates the making of roads and
building of bridges before the work of hauling can be
commenced. Large numbers of elephants and bullocks
are engaged in this work, and in one place at least the
Corporation have a traction engine at work. In this
process of transportation the forest rivers or creeks
are used to the utmost, until finally some large water-
way is reached by means of which the rafted logs may
be floated down to the sea.^
^ I hope I am not exaggerating, but my recollection is that often as
long a period as nine, or in some cases even twelve years elapses between
the girdling of a tree and its final arrival at the sawmills at Rangoon.
81 n
Burma
These creeks seem to be more or less of the same
character. Though there is always a little water flow-
ing in the bed, it is only after rain that they can claim
any title to be called rivers. Owing to the steepness
of the watershed and the extraordinary amount of
rainfall when it occurs, what before was a sleepy
succession of pools, half stagnating in the sun, becomes
almost immediately a rushing, swirling river, carrying
with it tree -trunks and all kinds of forest debris.
These floods are the opportunity for the "jungle
wallah," who has been busily employed in teak felling
and hauling in readiness for a rise. All hands are
busily engaged in launching logs into the stream, along
whose banks are stationed parties of men and elephants
shoving off logs should they strand, and with almost
superhuman efibrt and at considerable risk of life
relieving a "jam," which is often caused by the falling
of a forest tree where the flood has undermined the
bank. It is a time of high pressure and strenuous
eflbrt on the part of all engaged in the work, for these
streams form the easiest, sometimes the only, means of
transit, and a freshet when it occurs must be utilised
to its fullest advantage. I am told that it is not in-
frequent for men engaged in the teak forest to be out
for two or three days continuously, the whole time
working night and day under the extremest physical
discomfort caused by drenching rain and smothering
mud, unable for a moment to relax the closest con-
centration upon work which demands the maximum of
physical endurance, resourcefulness, and pluck. The
82
Jungle Life at Kokogon
river falls as quickly as it rises, and leaves the logs
committed to its charge stranded in piles called
"pones," or perhaps in single logs dotted here and
there throughout its course. These pones are usually-
formed by an obstruction, such as an impeding rock,
or where a log sticks upright in the muddy bed. In
some cases, however, the logs are collected into a
" pone " by means of a boom placed across the creek
to prevent them going farther down stream. This
boom is called " thittagah," which means literally " a
door for logs." Such a place was Kokogon, where the
elephants were engaged in hauling the collected timber
up a slide of rollers on to the high bank, from where
it will presendy be hauled through the forest by
bullock waggon or traction engine to another and a
larger stream, which will float it down to Rangoon.
Apropos of this, one of my companions had a some-
what curious adventure while engaged on the work
which I have been describing. He was making his
way down the creek, finding such foothold as he could,
and presently stood upon what he took to be the root
of a tree lying on the face of the steep bank. He was
much alarmed to find it move and to witness the
erection of an enormous neck and head at the end
farthest from him. What he had taken for a twisted
tree -stem proved to be a 13-foot python, and, as
he told me, he " let off a yell " and both barrels of the
gun which he happened to be carrying as he jumped
for the river bed. Luckily the python was killed, and
he took the skin, of which he is very proud.
83
Burma
I have previously remarked upon my not having
seen a snake so far, but closely following upon the
above adventure, one morning in going to my work I
trod upon a cobra, which fortunately was more alarmed
than myself and darted off at amazing speed into the
thicket ; and the same evening one of our party in
feeding the camp fire, picked up what he thought to
be a chip, but which was nothing less than a Russell's
viper, one of the most deadly snakes of Burma.
Fortunately he had " caught it right," and dropped it
before any harm was done.
With regard to snakes generally, I think it is
unquestioned that the reptile is, in most instances, as
anxious to get out of the way as the human being to
avoid it. An exception, however, occurs in the case of
the hamadryad or king cobra, which is aggressive. A
friend of mine in the Katha district told me how,
when chased by one of them, he, though an extremely
athletic man, had the greatest difficulty in getting away,
so rapid was its movement, and it was only by throw-
ing down his gun and cartridge-bag that he was able to
outdistance his pursuer.
It is interesting to watch the elephants at work ;
their sagacity is remarkable, and they hardly seem to
require the direction of the " oozis " who sit astride
their necks, encouraging them with cries of " kolai "
(brother), or repressing the refractory ones with their
" choons." ^ In order to assist his driver to mount, an
elephant will either kneel, or by bending the fore-leg,
^ Driving hooks.
84
A FOREST GLADE
Jungle Life at Kokogon
upon which the " oozi " steps, lift him until his seat is
reached. The prettiest method, perhaps, is when the
elephant, bending the head, curls up his trunk, which,
together with his broad forehead, forms a simple and
easy staircase for its driver. Approaching a log the
elephant will look at it and touch it deprecatingly with
his trunk, and, having mentally decided as to its prob-
able weight, will either lift it as directed, or should he
consider it too heavy, will positively decline to touch
it unassisted. Very clever, too, is the manner in which
they avoid obstacles, stepping over logs, chains, etc., as
they go about their work. In lifting timber, both
trunk and tusks are used, and it is extraordinary how
they marshal and sort the logs, laying them neatly and
evenly in their places, shoving with the head and
rolling them over until arranged to their satisfaction ;
or, when loading the trolleys, how carefully the log is
laid down, and then pushed forwards or backwards until
a perfect balance is obtained.
Highly intelligent animals, they are apparently
docile also, except when the male goes " must," or in
the case of a female with a calf. Then either is a very
uncertain quantity ; the calves also are most pugnacious,
even vicious, and as even a " youngster " will weigh
close upon half a ton, and is quite able to squash the
life out of any one, they are not to be trifled with by
any means.
I was one day taking a photograph of the elephants
at work at the top of the slide by which the logs were
hauled from the river to the top of the bank. Wishing
85
Burma
to get a good one, I was focussing carefully on the
screen, my head being under the cloth ; suddenly I
noticed one of the elephants becoming very rapidly
larger, and at the same time heard shouts of "Look
out ! " Without waiting to see what was going on,
however, I snatched up my camera and dropped over
the steep b^nk into the river bed below. I then dis-
covered that I had been charged by one of these fond
mothers, and had narrowly escaped a serious danger.
The elephant in question, I afterwards learnt, had pre-
viously killed two of her " oozis," and was altogether
a lady to be avoided.
Generally speaking, a great attachment springs up
between the elephant and his driver, who is often
devoted to his charge. I heard of a case where an
employer, on transferring his elephants to a new
district, asked one of the drivers to leave his village
and come also. " Of course," he replied, " how can I
leave my elephant ; he is my father, with whom I have
worked thirteen years."
On the other hand, elephants have a strong objection
to ponies and Europeans, especially when approached
from behind. Several times in moving through the
forest I came upon our " travellers " unexpectedly, and
in every case the elephant, striking his trunk upon the
ground, and giving a shrill metallic cry, quite different
from his ordinary trumpeting, would turn round to
attack. My pony, however, was always ready, and
quickly carried me out of sight among the trees.
I was rather surprised to learn how tender are
86
Jungle Life at Kokogon
elephants' backs, and the greatest care must be exercised
in loading up a " traveller " to ensure a perfect balance
of the load, or a sore back is sure to result. Curiously-
enough also, they suffer a good deal from the bites of
mosquitoes and other stinging insects, and I have, on
several occasions, seen the blood trickling down their
corrugated and seemingly impenetrable hides from this
cause.
87
CHAPTER VI
THROUGH THE FOREST TO PYINMANA
During the time spent at Kokogon, I was able to
familiarise myself with many forest growths, but when
it is considered that there are in Burma over 1500
different species of trees alone, without regarding the
lesser growths, my little knowledge was after all but a
qualified ignorance, though sufficient to add greatly to
the pleasure of the succeeding weeks spent in other
parts of the forest.
As usual our day's march began at dawn, and
owing to the difficulty of travelling through the denser
portions of the forest, often continued until nightfall.
The early mornings were peculiarly lovely, fresh,
even cold, with the dew hanging heavy upon spikes of
grass and other vegetation, and spangling the huge
cobwebs which hid among them with a weight of water
I hardly thought them capable of sustaining. As we
rode through the kaing grass and longer reeds, their
dripping heads gave us a veritable shower-bath, and in
a very short time every one was wet through.
The days were hot, the sun having a peculiar
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
potency from which even solar topees were hardly a
protection, and even the weight of silk suits seemed
insufferable.
Towards evening, as the air cooled and the brassy
sky became soft with mellow tints, our surroundings
were increasingly beautiful. Instead of the hard
glitter of light on trunks and boughs, which seemed
coldly white against the blackness of the shades, all the
lovely tints and variations of foliage and flowers are
properly appreciated.
Out of a tangled mass of creepers, palms, begonias,
lilies, and a variety of other growths, spring huge
cotton-trees whose straight white trunks rise loo feet
or more into the air before branching into the splendid
crests they carry, the pyingado, almost as high, the
large-leaved teak, banyan, cutch, and indaing trees
being all more or less bound together by fantastic
creepers, whose tendrils droop gracefully from boughs
further enriched by huge growths of orchids.
Many of the flowering plants are very lovely, includ-
ing several varieties of convolvulus, blue, yellow, and
white with a deep mauve centre, many of the canariensis
kind, and the particularly beautiful scarlet tropaeolum.
These entirely envelop the smaller jungle trees, form-
ing natural arbours, which look as though they had
been carefully planted and tended by gardeners.
During the day these wilds are gay with birds and
the thickets are alive with game. Towards evening
insect life awakes, and the shrill note of the crickets is
a perpetual accompaniment to the dance of the fireflies.
89 12
Burma
Personally I was not troubled by insects ; mosquitoes
are, of course, plentiful, but they did not seem to me
to be as malicious as their town cousins. With regard
to the others they were more interesting than irritating,
the spiders and ants alone being a source of annoyance.
The sounds of the forest are peculiar, for in addition
to the gentle swish of the breeze through the boughs
is the " pap-pap " of the larger leaves, and the rattle of
dry bean pods as they swing, or fall from bough to
bough to the undergrowth below. The rapping of
woodpeckers also mingles with the croaking of tree
frogs or the screech of owl or squirrel. It is all very
weird, and at night to these noises are added the cry
of the panther and jackal, and the shrill trumpeting of
elephants.
Here and there through the forest are the graves of
woodmen, marked by a little fence of twigs or a cover-
ing of basket-work, — solemn resting-places, whose
simple adornment is compensated by the magnificent
dignity of the trees which overshadow them. At
intervals are the " nat-sin " or rest-houses and pagodas
of wicker-work erected by the superstitious natives in
order to propitiate the spirits of the forest, in many of
which are placed diminutive utensils and weapons, and
offerings of food.
Giant ant-hills are frequent, and are in some instances
9 feet or more in height, but of all the curiosities of
the forest the creepers interested me most. How they
reach their position is often a puzzle. I noticed one
of perhaps 12 or 15 inches diameter, which sprang
90
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
from the root of one tree, and in one single shoot
had crossed a glade of perhaps 30 yards and attached
itself to the top of a tree 50 feet in height, thus
forming an entirely unsupported aerial bridge.
Another curious growth, which at first I mistook
for a creeper, is the Ficus religiosa or sacred banyan,
more generally spoken of in Burma as the " nyaung-
bin," the home of the green pigeon, who feeds upon its
berries. In this case the seed has been dropped by a
bird into the fork of a tree where, taking root, it sends
down shoots which cling closely to the trunk until the
earth is reached. From this moment these roots, as
they really are, commence to grow upwards, and, swell-
ing as they grow, develop into enormous encircling
arms strongly resembling the tentacles of an octopus,
while from above corresponding boughs mix their
foliage with that of the parent tree. By degrees
the original tree is entirely enveloped in an outer
casing of ficus, which slowly crushes the life out
of the enclosed trunk, and from its starting-point,
perhaps 100 feet above ground, rears its crest as a new
tree, even larger than the one which at first gave it
support. In one particular case I saw that two neigh-
bouring trees had been enveloped in this way, presenting
the singular phenomenon of three distinct kinds of
foliage springing from what appeared to be a single
trunk.
When the forest indulges in freaks of this kind it is
perhaps not surprising that the average "jungle wallah "
gives up the puzzle ! He knows his teak, pyingado,
91
Burma
eng, and cutch, and perhaps a few others whose eco-
nomic properties render them of value, but the rest he is
content to regard as "jungle wood " and nothing more.
Generally speaking, the forest consists of three tiers
of growth, the lower consisting of scrub, grasses, bamboo,
and a few small trees. Above these rise the teak,
cutch, cinnamon, palms, and a few others, which are again
dominated by a tier of giants, straight in the trunk and
immensely tall, as though sucked up by the damp heat,
the most imposing of these being the cotton-tree, whose
200 feet of trunk and crest is supported at the base by
enormous buttresses, without which its spongy texture
could hardly withstand the pressure of the wind. These
larger trunks are generally smooth -skinned, though
in many cases the bark is broken by spiral corrugations,
which I observed most frequently turned in the direction
of the sun's course.
As a rule, the trees are either large-leaved or feathery
in their foliage. Among the first are the banyan, of
which there are several varieties, teak, rubber, indaing
and a variety of broad-leaved palms, while of the
latter are pepper, padouk, tamarind, cutch, and several
other varieties of acacia. A great many of them bear
thorns, particularly the feathery species.
I often found it difficult in the deep forest to identify
the foliage of any given tree, the boughs being so
much intermingled, and their own foliage in many cases
being so completely smothered in an enormous mass
of leaf and flower of the seemingly endless variety of
creepers. Orchids appear to grow on all the lofty trees,
92
LOADING TEAK AT KOKOGON
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
Some bunches being large enough to fill a small cart
could they be removed. Many of the forest trees
flower, such as the " flame of the forest," padouk, cotton-
tree, dhak, pepper, and gold mohur. Among the palms
are cocoa-nut, toddy, palmyra, and areca-nut, while
the lesser growths include the castor-oil, with its fleshy
leaf, tree potato, plantains of many varieties, and a great
many species of bamboo. I noticed many dwarf wild
dates among the undergrowth, but, as one of my com-
panions informed me, " there were no tame dates in the
country" ! In many districts were wild pineapples, and
occasionally the papaya, with its delicious fruit, from
the seeds of which pepsine is made. One thing that
struck me as curious in so damp a country was the
almost total absence of ferns or fungi, though I later
on saw many varieties of both in the forests of the
Northern Shan States.
Such is a general impression of the forest through
which I was travelling, but as the ground was varied by
steep undulations, often rising to a considerable height,
the character of its trees and growth varied considerably
according to the levels.
On leaving Kokogon the first part of our journey
was through forest of the rich character I have described.
Crossing the creek our track lay through the teak forest,
where in an open glade I had my last glimpse of
elephants at work loading the logs on to trolleys, behind
them rising a splendid cotton-tree smothered in creepers,
and entirely dwarfing the teak and other trees which
surrounded it.
93
Burma
The "road," so called, was only a partly defined
track, often entirely overgrown with grasses and
obstructed by fallen timber and clinging vines. The
ground was generally sandy, but here and there were
" pockets " of clay which had not yet dried up, and
were simply traps for the unwary. As our elephants
had been sent on ahead, their heavy footprints, two feet
in depth, furnished what I may call " stepping-stones "
across the worst places, the ponies jumping from one
to the other very cleverly, and so effecting a crossing
where otherwise they might have been bogged. In
other places the track ran up steep hill-sides, and con-
sisted merely of a rut full of mud held up by the roots
which traversed it, so forming an irregular kind of
staircase up which our ponies had to clamber as best
they could. As in many cases these " steps " were four
feet or so in height, our ponies constantly slipped back
upon their haunches, rendering riding extremely diffi-
cult, more especially as the path was further obstructed
by stumps of jungle wood, which might well have
caused damage to horse or rider.
Crossing a ridge of laterite, the forest consisted
entirely of in or eng trees, much like the Spanish oak
in appearance ; here there was little scrub, the under-
growth consisting almost entirely of lesser grasses and
a few flowering plants. Descending the slope, this dry
forest was succeeded by a beautiful wood, green and
shady, in which were many of our own wood plants
mixed with strange flowers, and which, with an occasional
cotton-tree or pyingado, gave the only tropical feature
94
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
to scenery which otherwise closely resembled an English
coppice.
Then almost suddenly we entered what might liter-
ally be described as a botanic garden. On either side
of the road, here well defined, were flowers of various
kinds, — blue, yellow, white, red, all growing together
on a tangled mass of greenery. The lesser trees were
almost covered with climbing plants, while from the
highest hung festoons of creepers like garlands of
green and gold. Flitting across the patches of sunlight
were plumage birds, while flights of peacocks moved
heavily from tree to tree.
This again was succeeded by a bamboo forest, most
beautiful of all, — vista after vista, like cathedral aisles,
arched by the feathery boughs of the bamboos, which
sprang from a floor of almost white sand. Very solemn
it was in the subdued light, for little sunlight was able
to penetrate through the green vault, and the very air
seemed cold and awed. Down in the deeper hollows was
blackness ; up the slopes a kind of artificial half-light
pervaded the network of intersecting bamboo stems, and
in some places, where the foliage was a little thinner, lilies
carpeted the ground. I find it impossible to describe
the beauty of it all, especially where it was reflected
in a forest stream, which added its quota of water
plants to the already luxuriant foliage.
Water erosion hereabouts is heavy, and results in
practically all the roads and bridges being carried away
each monsoon, entailing a great amount of work upon
the forest men to make good the damage.
95
Burma
The forest is at its best during the rains. Trees
and orchids are in bloom, and birds and butterflies
more in evidence ; while the atmospheric effects, par-
ticularly at sunset, are more striking and gorgeous in
colour than at any other time of the year. Insect life,
however, is apt to be inconvenient at this season, lamps
and candles are put out by the white ants, while an
infinite variety of flying insects render indoor life well-
nigh intolerable. In the forest the roads become rivers
of mud, impassable for ponies, and in which pedestrians
often sink above the waist. This is a trying time for
the forest men, for whom an added terror exists in the
large numbers of leeches with which the mud is perme-
ated, some of them being so small as to get through
the eyelet-holes of one's boots, and producing irritating
wounds in addition to the mud sores common to the
season.-
We camped that night at a place called Hlai-bin-
doung, in a small " tai " or rest-house, which consisted of
three walls of bamboo matting, thatched with " thekke,"
and as usual raised on piles, the front of the house
being entirely open to the air.
We were in rather a dense forest, composed largely
of bamboo, with a pretty little stream winding through
the undergrowth before us. A " snaky " place, how-
ever, and I felt it necessary to station my servant
behind me with a stick while I was painting in the
adjacent jungle.
At nightfall the usual log fire was lit, around which
we had our evening meal. Everything had been
96
A FOREST TAI
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
strange to me during the day's ride, and even the
flames of our fire had a peculiarity of their own, rising
in long slender tongues to a great height, and without
the splutter and noise usually associated with a wood
fire. Meanwhile from the forest came sounds like
shot-guns being fired, but which I learned were simply
caused by our elephants pulling down the bamboos in
order to feed upon their green shoots, the hollow stems
"going off" like pop-guns as they broke.
Like the cattle the elephants wear a " kalouk,"
composed of a circular drum of teak-wood, hollowed
through its entire length, with two hardwood clappers
suspended on the outside by a cord which runs through
the clappers and bell, and is tied round the elephant's-
neck. As the elephants are always turned loose at
night to forage for themselves, it is only by means of
the kalouk that the oozi is able to locate and capture
his animal in the jungle. I am told that each driver
recognises the tone of the bell his elephant wears, so
that he never makes the mistake of hunting down the
wrong animal. These elephant bells also serve the
purpose of warding off bears, tigers, and other
marauders at night. So useful in this way is the
kalouk that I heard of one case where an isolated camp
had been repeatedly attacked by bears, which were with
some difficulty driven off, and the servants eventually
adopted the habit of carrying one in their hands, which
so alarmed the bears by the supposed presence of
elephants that they retired from the vicinity of the
camp altogether.
97 13
Burma
I do not think I ever experienced cold to equal that
of my first night in a forest " tai," As I have already-
explained, one side of the building is entirely open to
the air, while matting walls afford little protection
against the wind ; one naturally, therefore, " turned in "
in flannels with all available blankets on the bed.
Sleep proved impossible, the cold was so intense ; and
presently 1 was compelled to get up, add more clothing
to what I already wore, and put my topcoat and any-
thing in the shape of packing canvases I could find on
top of the blankets, but without result. Eventually I
came to the conclusion that the cold was caused by the
damp exhalations from the ground, so, reversing the
order of things, I placed my heavy bedding underneath
me, simply wrapping myself in my ulster, after which,
although I still felt the cold intensely, I was able to
sleep.
At about 4.30 A.M. I was awakened by what I at
first thought was a downpour of rain, but which proved
to be nothing else than the heavy dew, which, collecting
on the large leaves, dripped from one to the other like
a thunder-shower, and was of sufl'icient volume to flow
from the eaves of the rest-house in a continual stream.^
This district is very rich in game, and we found
traces of sambur, gyi, leopard, tiger, and wild elephant
here, also many signs of pig. Among the feathered
game were jungle fowl, pheasant, partridge, wood-
^ This period of heavy dew-fall lasts about two and a half months, the
" hot " weather commencing about the 1 5th of February, followed later by
the monsoon rains.
98
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
pigeon, wild duck, snipe, and peacock, the latter being-
very good eating.
One of my friends in following up the track of a
pig here eventually lost the trail in a thicket of kaing
grass, so he sent his servant round it to see if the
tracks came through, or if the quarry were asleep in
the grass. On reaching the other side the man found
a panther asleep, and, without disturbing him, came
and informed his master, who promptly went in search
of the bigger game. The pig, however, was now
aroused and alarmed the panther just as my friend
came up, and, both breaking simultaneously in opposite
directions, he failed to bag either. This, with the ex-,
ception of a few gyi, was all we ourselves saw in the
way of game hereabouts.
All through this ride, my pony, a four-year-old,,
exhibited great signs of nervousness, and I had often
considerable difficulty in keeping him in hand. It was
his first experience of the forest, the gloom and still-
ness of which were so great that the breaking of a twig
served to alarm him. He continually shied at roots
or branches on the ground, and was perpetually sniffing
the air or snorting at imaginary terrors. Possibly he
smelt tiger or feared snakes, but whatever the cause, on
one or two occasions he incontinently bolted, crashing
through thorns and creepers and jamming me against
tree-trunks in his flight. Twice I completely lost the
track, but knowing the general direction of our march
I was each time able to pick up the elephant-treads
again and rejoin my party. The sensation of being
99
Burma
lost, however, is not pleasant, particularly in a jungle
frequented by tiger — the more so as I was entirely
unarmed.
One of my friends told me how, after a similar
experience, he was obliged to sleep in the open all
night, and next day found himself only a mile from his
camp, which through the density of the growth he had
been unable to find. Fortunately he had a gun with
him, and a jungle fowl supplied his evening meal,
without which he would have been obliged to pass the
night fasting.
Such few natives as inhabit these forests are mostly
Chins, whose villages are picturesquely placed in a
clearing surmounting a hillock, and surrounded by
the usual stockade. The dwellings and costumes of
the inhabitants are poorer than those of their Burmese
neighbours, and to judge by the limited area of cultiva-
tion in the vicinity of their hamlets, they would appear
to live largely upon the forest.
In features they are uncomely, and they have the
curious custom of still further disfiguring their women
by tattooing their faces black all over immediately
after marriage. This is done in order to limit the
probability of other men running after their wives,
and I can hardly doubt that it has the desired effect.
All the older women I saw were so treated, but the
younger ones are rebelling against the custom, which in
many districts is beginning to die out.
Though varying from time to time in particular
features, one day's journey through the forest was much
100
JUNGLE AT DELANCHOON
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
like another. Surrounded by scenes of the supremest
beauty, each day's ride seemed more beautiful than the
last, — a gradual crescendo of loveliness which only
increased as familiarity aided appreciation, and of which
no words of mine could ever give an adequate im-
pression. I had never anticipated anything so com-
pletely fascinating as these Burmese forests proved to
be, and my lasting regret is that, owing to the diffi-
culties of the way and the impossibility of keeping in
touch with my baggage, I was unable to secure as many
pictures as I could have wished with which to supple-
ment my descriptions.
At our halting-places at night an additional touch of
romance was given by the flickering light of the camp
fires illuminating forest trees and the figures of those
who sat around them. Here, after a hard day's ride
and a well-earned meal, I was glad to lie in its warmth,
acquiring information from my companions, or listen-
ing to their anecdotes and tales of adventure in other
parts of the country, while from the blackness of the
gloom beyond came sounds which warned the traveller
that a new life had awakened in the forest, the investi-
gation of which it would be unwise to attempt.
On December 13 and 14 I was camped at
Delanchoon, where I was for the first time partially
incapacitated by fever, from which hitherto I had been
remarkably free. The tai here is a Government one,
and better built than the others in which I had stayed,
and the additional comfort of which I appreciated
under the circumstances, but unfortunately I was not
lOI
Burma ^
able to work much here, as I spent most of my time
in the shelter of the house. This being a good
opportunity, I took a photograph of my friends and
the whole of our servants, and, as it happened, it proved
my last chance of doing so. In marshalling the men I
was amused by a little altercation between two of them.
One was heard to say, " What nonsense is this, I am
not going to be photographed," to which the other
replied, " How can it be nonsense when * Master ' want
it ! " and in due course he took his place with the rest.
Near by was a small village, and the natives as
usual brought presents of fruit, etc., and among other
items a lemur which they had caught on the way. As
they are pretty little beasts, easily tamed and quickly
becoming attached to their master, I would have liked
to have brought this one home with me, but the diffi-
culties were too great, and it was eventually sent to
the little monastery attached to the village.
Here also I saw a herd of wild elephants browsing
among the bamboos, but owing to the thickness of the
jungle I was not able to obtain any studies of them,
and it would have been most unwise to have attempted
too near an approach for the purpose. As an example
of the dangers of elephant-stalking I may mention the
case of a servant of the Corporation who, riding a tame
elephant, was with others engaged in rounding up a
wild herd in the Katha district. A bull broke from the
herd, and charging the ring which hemmed him in, so
alarmed the elephant which our friend was riding that
it turned and bolted, passing under a heavy bough
102
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
which swept him off its back to the ground, where he
lay with several bones broken, unable to move. He was
then seized by the elephant's trunk and tossed into the
air again and again, alternately crashing against the
limbs of overhanging trees, or falling heavily to the
earth, until he lay a bruised and broken mass, and
practically lifeless. Not content with this, the bull finally
lowered his head and charged his victim, but, marvellous
to relate, though the elephant's tusks ploughed up deep
furrows on either side of him, he was untouched by
either feet or tusks, and the elephant then making off
he was rescued by his friends. It seems hardly credible
that he could have survived, but when I left Burma I
learned that he had made considerable progress towards
complete recovery.
Our next halting-place was Min-byin, the day's ride
being peculiarly interesting. At first our path lay
through a mixed forest of lofty trees and giant bamboo
sixty feet in height. The ground was very hilly,
affording alternate vistas of dark alleys of greenery
interspersed with flowers, or from the hill-tops, over
feathery foliage to a succession of more distant ridges.
The particular charm of the ride, however, lay in the
fact that for the greater part of the way we followed
the windings of the Min-byin river, in which all this
wealth of tropical foliage was reflected. These riparian
forests are peculiarly rich, the usual growths being
supplemented by many water-side plants not found on
the higher levels, the foliage of which is naturally
particularly fresh in colour. Owing to the steepness
103
Burma
of the hills and the unusual density of the under-
growth we presently took to the river, riding through
the shallow water, which was seldom more than a foot
in depth. These partially dry streams often form the
best road for riding or walking, and from the tracks in
the sandy bed the Min-byin river was evidently a high-
way for carts also.
Our course was generally southerly, and the scene
was extremely pretty as our trailing caravan wound
along the creek, the figures standing out strongly
against the water shimmering in the sunshine. Some
of the bends in the river were very fine. From the
farther side the forest rose in hills of deepest shade,
only the edges of the trees catching the brilliant light,
while from the nearer bank a spit of white sand edged
with a silver streak glittered in contrast with the
gloom beyond. Kingfishers flitted from bank to bank,
and an occasional grey heron flew heavily away as we
approached. Birds of many kinds added their brilliant
colouring to that of the flowers which shone among
the varied greens, while all the forest trees were full
of character.
This part of my journey formed the climax to a
succession of beautiful scenes, and nowhere had I seen
flowers so varied or in such profusion as here.
An amusing episode occurred during this march.
I was as usual loitering while adding pages to my
sketch-book, and became separated from my party, and
presently happened upon a native who was using a
curious two -stringed bow, with which he shot clay
104
THE VILLAGE OF MIN-BYIN
^'..jrfivlfcj*
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
bullets instead of arrows. I endeavoured to make him
understand that I wished to buy the weapon, but
unsuccessfully ; so, rather than lose the opportunity of
securing such an interesting curio, I annexed the bow,
and made him follow me to Min-byin, where my
friends could interpret for me. I was rather dis-
concerted to find that the man had no desire to part
with the bow, as well as concerned at having brought
him, practically a prisoner, so far out of his way.
I asked Maclennan what I should do. " Oh, keep the
bow and give him two rupees and send him away," he
advised. This I did, feeling rather mean about it,
however, but presently the man returned bringing me
a fresh supply of pellets, from which I concluded that
he was after all as well pleased with the bargain as I
was myself. I had to " pay my footing " with the bow,
however, for on trying to use it I only succeeded
in smashing the pellets against my knuckles, until I
discovered that at the moment of releasing the string
the left hand should be pulled sharply to the side, so
allowing the bullet to pass, after which I made some
fairly good practice.
Min-byin itself proved to be a very trim little
village, built on the high bank overlooking the river,
and surrounded by a well-built stockade of timber.
Without, however, adding to descriptions which I fear
may become tedious, two points of interest struck me.
In the sand-banks hollows had been scooped out into
which the river filtered, so giving the villagers a some-
what purer water supply than the river itself afforded,
105 14
Burma
as these streams are not only the drinking places but
the bathing places also of the wild animals with which
these forests teem. The other feature which I noticed
was that the women engaged in cutting fuel in the
woods wore upon their backs a little basket of wicker-
work, which served the purpose of a pocket in which
their " kukries " ^ and other impedimenta were carried.
I noticed the same custom later in other places, and
no doubt this is a common practice throughout the
country.
This was my last day with my friends, who were
obliged to return to Kokogon. To them I owe a
great debt of gratitude for their kindness in organising
and " personally conducting " an expedition which was
to me one of absorbing interest, and I am not without
the hope that at some future time I may again be
able to enjoy their genial companionship on such
another journey.
The following morning commenced two days of epi-
sodes, some of which might have had very unpleasant
results, though fortunately all went well in the end.
At dawn a travelling elephant was loaded up with
my baggage and commissariat (among which was a live
chicken for my dinner), and, accompanied by six
servants, I left for Kyet-thoung-doung, where I pro-
posed to spend the night. Among the servants who
had gone on ahead were my own boy Chinnasammy,
and Moung-Ba, a middle-aged Burman who had been
specially attached to me as interpreter, so that when an
^ A heavy sheathed knife used as a chopper.
1 06
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
hour later I waved my last adieux to my friends and
started on my journey, I was practically alone, my
only companion being a small boy who acted as " syce "
and guide, and with whom, owing to my ignorance of
Burmese, I could not communicate, and my adventures
began early.
Behind Min-byin were large paddy fields, across
which my path lay, but owing to the pleasant native
habit of ploughing up all tracks at sowing-time, the
pathway soon vanished into nothingness, and was
succeeded by a labyrinth of bunds which led nowhere,
and soon caused us to become hopelessly mixed. Time
and again we struck what looked like a road leading
in the desired direction, but in each case it terminated
in impenetrable jungle or doubled on its track.
Presently a native appeared : " Kyet-thoung-doung,
eh ? " I queried. Spreading his five fingers and giving
a broad sweep of his arm, he indicated about 90
degrees of horizon, so that I was not much the wiser,
but knowing that it lay approximately south-east from
Min-byin I struck an average, and pushed on through
whatever came.
Meanwhile an hour of the cool of the day had been
lost, and I was beginning to get irritated, when to my
joy I heard the distant groanings of a native cart, and
making in the direction of the sounds struck a road,
which, however, ran at right angles to my supposed
course, and the question then arose as which way to
turn. With a bright smile of intelligence, my little
guide indicated the left, but after some miles the road,
107
Burma
which was generally down-hill and presented every
conceivable kind of impediment, took a sharp turn to
the north which plainly showed that we had taken the
wrong turning and must retrace our steps. Riding
down-hill had been bad going, but returning up-hill
through tangles of weeds, over fallen timber and
slippery mud -slides, was extremely vexatious both
to man and beast, and when we reached our starting-
point of an hour earlier we were alike tired and cross ;
but our direction now proving to be the right one, I
settled down more contentedly to recover by steady
riding some of the time lost in our wanderings.
I have already referred to the heavy dew hanging on
the undergrowth, and on this occasion I was saturated.
What particularly annoyed me was the cold dripping
of the moisture down my neck and spine, to avoid
which I formed the habit of striking any overhanging
reeds with my riding switch, so shaking off the dew-
drops before meeting the boughs with my head and
shoulders. Once in striking aside a bamboo shoot,
which would otherwise have brushed across my face, I
dislodged a vividly green snake, about two feet in length,
which, protected by its colour, lay concealed among the
fresh leaves. The snake, which I killed, proved to be
a venomous one, and had it struck me would in all
probability have put an abrupt termination to my
journey ! This bamboo switch, by the way, which I had
cut on my first day in the forest, was the only weapon I
carried in Burma, and I keep it still as a valued memento
of more than one adventure in the country.
io8
ENTRANCE TO THE VILLAGE OF K YET-THOUNG-DOUNG
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
For the rest of the day my journey was without
special feature, the forest being as before grandly beau-
tiful, though perhaps being alone it appeared to me
more solemn and impressive than usual. Our road
though rough was well defined, crossing hill and dale
and through sylvan glades, in which for the first time
I saw ferns, though small and of a common variety
much like our polypods.
The riding, however, was by no means easy, for
these forest roads are terribly bad in many places,
being simply deep ruts through sand or laterite, and
rough as a water-course. How it is that the native
carts do not capsize is to me a mystery, one wheel being
often four feet higher than the other, as the patient
bullocks drag them over rocks or roots, through ruts
and boggy streams with equal indiflference ! Nothing
seems to come amiss to the Burmese driver, who says
that wherever a pony can ride a cart can travel ! Indeed,
I am not sure that they do not put it the other way,
and give the cart precedence for facility of transit.
Kyet-thoung-doung was reached in the early after-
noon, the tai being splendidly placed on a high bank
overlooking the creek, which we had crossed several
times on our way.
Here I had my second adventure of the day.
While painting the entrance to the village, my
" boy " came to inform me that some lads had caught
a large snake by the water, and inquired if I would
like to see it ? I told him to ask the boys to
bring it to me, which they did, carrying it between
109
Burma
bamboos. Thinking it was dead I told them to put it
down until I had time to look at it, when I discovered
that instead of being dead it was very much alive, and
commenced to wriggle about the legs of my easel !
" Kill it," I shouted, but was informed politely that
" Burmans do not kill animals," so with my servant's
aid I did so myself. The snake was a very handsome
one, coloured in alternate bands of coal black and
laburnum yellow, with a finely marked pattern running
through its scaling. In length it was just over six feet,
and I have since been told that it must have been a
banded kraite, a particularly deadly species. Unfor-
tunately the head got badly smashed in the process of
killing, which decided me not to take the skin, a decision
I greatly regret, as this proved to be the only one of
its kind I was to meet with.
After the pleasant evenings spent with my friends
nothing could exceed the depressing loneliness of my
dinner by the light of a single candle, which only served
to emphasise the gloominess of my home and its sur-
roundings. Letters and writing up my notes, however,
passed the time till " turning in," and I may here
mention the fact, and one creditable to every one con-
cerned, that all my letters (which were forwarded from
Rangoon) reached me safely and in order of date, the
postal arrangements even in these remote wilds being
so well organised.
Like the preceding one the following day was not
without its adventures. During the night the sounds
of wild animals were frequent, and possibly owing to
no
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
their presence my elephant had wandered far, and,
having lost his kalouk, could not be found by his
oozi. However, I decided to start for Lewe, where I
was to lunch, leaving the servants to load up and follow
when the elephant was caught. Accompanied by my
little Burman boy I started early as usual, and crossing
the creek plunged into a long stretch of jungle, from
which during the previous night the roaring of " bad
animals " (as my boy put it) had emanated. After a
short time my pony began to fidget, and I became con-^
scious of the fact that I was being followed, stealthily
but unmistakably, by some beast which the long grasses
hid from view. As I was unarmed, the position was
distinctly unpleasant, while the thickness of the growth
impeded the pony greatly, and we could only proceed
at walking pace. This continued for about half an
hour, when, the grass coming to an end, I told my boy
to hang on, and giving my pony his head "let him
go " through the fairly open forest which succeeded it.
Whether the animal was a tiger or a leopard I do not
know, but the following night a native went down to
the creek to sharpen his " dah " and never returned,
though the pugs of a tiger on the sand showed what
had been his fate, and possibly decided the identity of
my " follower " of the previous morning.
This beginning not unnaturally got on our nerves,
the pony being perhaps the most upset, and for the
rest of the day he was in a state of fidget and excite-
ment. Soon we entered a portion of the forest, deeper,
darker, and more solemn than anything I have described.
Ill
Burma
Down dark valleys whose end was blackness, or climb-
ing hill-sides where the glinting sunlight penetrated in
patches which intensified the surrounding gloom, it was
an eerie ride, rendered more so by the abnormal silence
which pervaded it. The air was cold, damp, and heavy,
and not a leaf stirred on the shrubs which hid the base
of trees whose lofty trunks vanished into a dark vault
of foliage. " The valley of the shadow of death," was
my mental comment, and my pony's ears lying flat on his
outstretched neck, together with his furtive glances and
little snorts of fear, showed that I was not alone in feel-
ing the awe of the place ; even the boy, always light-
hearted and smiling, looked subdued and frightened.
Then an absurdity happened. Wrapped in this
sense of loneliness and oppression, we were slowly
making our way down a long aisle closely hemmed in
by trees, when suddenly, close by my elbow, a shrill
cry broke the silence and the spell which seemed to
bind us. I had just time to notice that it was only a
squirrel scolding at our intrusion as my pony bolted
for the forest, and, crashing and plunging over and
through everything, jamming me up against tree-
trunks or half-strangling me in thorny creepers, placed
my limbs if not my life in greater jeopardy than they
had ever been before or since !
This excitement served to shake off our lethargy,
and the rest of the journey being fairly easy going, we
reached Lewe at mid-day, tired and ready for tiffin.
The dak here is a Government one and very com-
fortably furnished, and the kansammah in charge came
112
IN FOREST DEPTHS
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
to " salaam," at the same time pouring out a volume
of Hindustani of which neither I nor my syce could
understand a word. The man appeared to think me
very stupid, as indeed I felt, and repeated his statement
several times and evidently in different ways, in a vain
attempt to reach my understanding. Finally he gave
it up and retired to his own quarters, with a grunt of
disapproval.
The position was very ridiculous. I wanted my
bath, likewise my tiffin, but as we had no common
means of communication, I was compelled to possess
my soul in patience pending the arrival of my servants
and baggage. Hot and tired, how I longed for a
whisky -and -soda, and as the hours passed hunger
knawed at me also, and it was not until 4 p.m., ten hours
after my chota hazri, that my belated caravan arrived
bringing the comforts I was now almost past enjoying.
The delay, it appeared, had been caused by the
difficulty of capturing the strayed elephant, but this
experience taught me never again to go in advance of
my commissariat department.
I had still ten miles to ride to Pyinmana, the road
being an excellent one from this point, wide, properly
metalled, and shaded by trees, and after a very pleasant
ride in the cool of the evening, I shortly after dark
reached the ever-hospitable bungalow of the Bombay-
Burma Trading Corporation.
So ended my ride of over 120 miles from the
Irrawaddy to the valley of the Sittang, through scenes
which I have no hesitation in describing as the most
113 15
Burma
beautiful I had ever seen, and the recollection of which
will always remain with me as a fascinating dream.
One or two regrets there are, however, connected with
it. I cannot help feeling how enormously the pleasure
and interest of the journey would have been enhanced
had I possessed even a moderate knowledge of botany
or forestry, whose puzzling problems and beautiful
growths perpetually tantalised me in my ignorance.
Again, should I ever have the good fortune to revisit
these forests, a collector's gun and entomological outfit
will form important items in my equipment. The
large game I do not so much regret, — this is a sport
incompatible with the work I had to do, though any
" shikarri " would find ample recompense here. But
my greatest regret of all is that circumstances so often
prohibited my securing sketches of spots of superlative
beauty, but which in many cases would have involved a
longer halt than was possible, even if conditions of climate
and situation made such a course advisable. As it is, I
must put these regrets aside, and be thankful to have
even seen the beauties I have so inadequately described.
Of Pyinmana I can say little, my stay there having
been of too short duration to enable me to speak with
any conviction, and unfortunately the only sketches I
was able to make suffered accidents which have made
their reproduction impossible without repainting, which
I have not yet had time to do. It is a pretty spot,
however, the views from the bungalow and the little
club being charming, and its pagodas and bazaars have
many features of special interest.
114
Through the Forest to Pyinmana
It was always my hope to revisit Pyinmana and
renew acquaintance with the friends I made there, as
well as record some at least of its most characteristic
scenes, but this, like many other of my plans, pressure
of time compelled me to abandon.
115
CHAPTER VII
ONE THOUSAND MILES UP THE IRRAWADDY
(RANGOON TO PROMe)
In response to urgent invitations, I returned to
Rangoon for Christmas week, always a period of social
activity, and one in which every one seems to outvie
the other in hospitality.
On Christmas Day, for instance, I breakfasted with
one friend, lunched with another, spent the afternoon
at a garden party, and after a brief visit to the
Gymkhana Club, went to a dinner party at 8 o'clock.
After dinner was a performance of pierrots and
minstrels at the Assembly Rooms, followed by a
supper at the Pegu Club ! This perhaps was the
busiest day of the week, but all were more or less on
the same lines, and a few days sufficed to exhaust me,
especially after the simple life and early hours of the
jungle. I, therefore, decided to limit my stay in
Rangoon, and start up the river immediately.
I can imagine no greater contrast to the rough
and ready life of the forest or the exuberance of
Rangoon than the quiet comfort of a journey up the
ii6
Rangoon to Prome
Irrawaddy in one of the fine steamers of the Irrawaddy
Flotilla Company. The fleet is a large one, consisting
of mail boats, cargo steamers, and ferries, each having
good cabin accommodation, and excellent table and
attendance ; even the ferry boats, on which one seldom
requires to pass more than a night, are good in this
respect, while the mail steamers are as comfortable as
any on the Nile, one in which I travelled even pro-
viding a billiard table for its passengers !
As I have frequently heard it suggested that
passengers up the Irrawaddy are obliged to undergo
considerable discomfort, and are carried up in some-
thing in the nature of a barge, it may be a surprise to
many to know that the mail steamers, as a rule, measure
about 325 feet in length, with a breadth over sponsons
of 76 feet ; that their tonnage is between 1200 and
1350, and they carry anything up to 2500 passengers,
having a speed of about 14 knots.
As, however, travellers are yet few in Burma, the
greater portion of space in these steamers is given up
to cargo and deck passengers. The cabins are placed
on the upper deck, forward of the engines, and in the
extreme bow is a promenade deck, where meals are
served, and where you can enjoy both the scenery and
the breeze, and I may add that in the captains of the
steamers in which I sailed I found not only genial
companions but a source of valuable information,
which I greatly appreciated.
Almost without exception my Rangoon friends
advised me not to make the whole journey by water,
117
Burma
but by taking the train to Prome avoid some 300
miles of river and creek, which they assured me was
without interest. As it was my desire to see the whole
navigable length of the Irrawaddy, I fortunately decided
against this advice, and found that the lower river was
as interesting as anything higher up, though in a
different way.
The branch of the river which connects Rangoon
with the Irrawaddy proper is no longer navigable, and
steamers, therefore, are obliged to drop down stream
some fifteen miles and, by way of the Bassein creek,
eventually reach the main river at a point called " the
hole in the wall," from which a glimpse of the sea is
obtainable.
All this is of course tidal water, and very muddy,
and at high water the low-lying land is almost entirely
submerged. The scenery is generally quiet, the
narrow waterway being fringed with mango-trees and
dwarf wild -dates, whose foliage has a peculiar sickly
tint due, no doubt, to the constant saturation to which
they are subjected. Every here and there is a hut, or
little settlement of bamboo dwellings, built partly on
the bank and pardy over the water, the homes of
fishermen who, half naked, paddle about in dug-out
canoes, and whose nets, hung over bamboo frames, are
drying in the breeze.
Branching right and left from the river are creeks
which intersect the Delta in all directions, cutting up
the land into islands of greater or less area, between
which communication is quite impossible except by
118
ON THE BASSEIN CREEK
Rangoon to Prome
means of boats. Some of these islands are under
cultivation, but the greater part are covered with
jungle and abound in game of all kinds, including
tigers. Indeed, I am told that in some places tigers
are so numerous as to render landing dangerous.
On what may be called the mainland, however, are
enormous tracts of land under rice cultivation, and I
believe that these districts produce a large proportion
of the total paddy crop of Burma.
Our first stopping - place was Dedaye, a village
of amphibious habits, nestling in tropical foliage,
amongst which I noticed for the first time the slender
stems and graceful crest of the betel-palm.
On the banks were a number of boats, building or
undergoing repairs, and waiting for the next monsoon
floods to float them off. All these boats were of the
typical Burman build, with high sterns and up-tilted
bows, and with nicely flowing lines throughout. Even
the little dug-out is pretty, both stern and forefoot
rising clear of the water in a slight curve which gives
an element of beauty to what would otherwise be
simply a straight log.
Afloat, these boats, deeply laden with paddy for
the Rangoon mills, are extremely graceful, and as their
crews of perhaps fourteen or sixteen rowers bend their
backs to the long sweeps they use, they unconsciously
bring to mind the galleys of ancient Rome, and impress
as much by their dignity as by the beauty of their
sweeping lines.
In marked contrast are the Chinese boats, which are
119
Burma
utilitarian to the exclusion of all other considerations,
while others, equally uninteresting, are manned by
Indian coolies, who, with spoon-shaped oars, paddle in
an inefficient and hesitating manner most irritating to a
waterman.
Returning " laung-zats " and " peingaws " having
discharged their cargoes, speed upstream before a
breeze which cools the air and breaks the river into
wavelets. Under sail the rig of these boats is peculiar.
The mast is formed of two bamboos, stepped at the
gunwale almost amidships, which, inclining inwards, are
bound together at the head, while battens of wood
lashed across them form a ladder which takes the place
of shrouds and ratlines. An enormous yard, also of
bamboo, and which bends upwards on each side from
the mast, serves to carry four or more square-cut sails
of cotton cloth, some of which are embroidered at the
edges, and which can be taken in one by one, according
to the strength of the breeze. Above are top-sails
spread by a multitude of cords stiffened by two upright
bamboos lashed to the yard. The whole forms a
confusing net-work of ropes and spars, and, though
picturesque enough, I do not think I have ever seen
any vessels rigged in a more unpractical manner.
The fact is that the Burmans are no sailors, and
their beautiful boats are better adapted for drifting or
rowing than for sailing. The sails, which are badly cut
and trimmed, can only be used before the wind, and
are of no use at all for reaching or beating to wind-
ward. The Chinese and other boats almost invariably
120
;■ H riv.
UPSTREAM WITH THE WIND
r»*-
!!•**!:
Rangoon to Prome
carry a square sail set as a lug, which, though non-
pictorial, being dyed red with cutch, supplies a valuable
note of colour among so much greenery.
Ascending the river the land gradually becomes
firmer and the banks higher, though still but little
raised above high -water mark. Not so completely
saturated as the swamp land lower down, the growth
on the banks gradually undergoes a change, the mango
giving place to the tamarind and banyan, while near
the villages, such as Maubin, the cool green of the
banana groves mingles pleasantly with the more robust
foliage of forest trees.
This district is naturally much infested with mos-
quitoes, which at Maubin I am told exist in such
numbers that even the ponies in their stables have to
be protected by " meat cages " ! Recently, however,
the jungle on the opposite side of the river has been
cut down and fired, resulting in a very considerable
diminution of the plague. Our steamer moored here
for the night, and though the deck and cabin lights
attracted enormous numbers of moths and flying insects
of all kinds, I do not remember that mosquitoes were
particularly numerous, and certainly they caused me
little or no inconvenience.
I see from my notes that we left Maubin at 6 a.m.
on New Year's morning ; it was beautifully bright but
cold, and a soft purple haze hung upon the horizon,
through which sunlit trees and gilded pagodas shone.
The limpid water reflecting the clear blue overhead
acquired that curious colour termed " eau-de-nil," and
121 i6
Burma
which one associates peculiarly with Egypt. As the
day advanced the heat of the sun made itself felt, and
the glare on the water seemed to justify the smoked
glasses which the captain and most of the passengers
affected. By 10.30 we had reached Yandoon, which is
the Irrawaddy end of the creek, which lower down is
termed the " Rangoon river." This is a prosperous
market town, a very large number of native boats lying
up against the river bank, while the smell of " ngapi," ^
which is made here, filled the air. In strolling round
the village I was escorted by all the gamins from the
streets, who displayed a good-humoured and at the
same time well-behaved interest in my, to them,
eccentric curiosity with regard to domestic incident.
The village was a good type of a flourishing
Burmese centre ; the people, on the whole, seemed
prosperous, and the houses were generally well built,
and as, in addition to their trade in paddy, Yandoon
is one of the few places in Burma where ngapi is
manufactured (an article in universal consumption), I
have no doubt the villagers are extremely well-to-do.
In some respects, moreover, they are quite up to date,
many articles exposed for sale in the shops being of the
latest European pattern, while in one hut I noticed a
middle-aged woman, a huge cigar stuck perkily in the
corner of her mouth, busy pedalling away at a sewing
machine stitching up a lungyi.
Time did not permit of my making any sketches of
Yandoon, as the steamer's stay here was of a very short
^ Partially cured and salted fish.
122
Rangoon to Prome
duration, and indeed, though there are a good many
cocoanut-palms and mimosa-trees scattered through its
streets, it is not so intrinsically pictorial as many other
villages I have visited.
Behind the town were immense tracts of paddy land,
and every here and there was a raised platform for the
use of men and boys engaged in the scaring of birds in
harvest time. I was sorry to notice one fact which
became increasingly apparent as we proceeded up-
stream, which was the substitution of galvanised iron
roofing for the more picturesque "thekke," and the
use of kerosene tins in place of the beautiful water
chatties of native manufacture.
On rejoining the steamer all the small fry of the
village who had been my companions on my tour of
investigation assembled on the bank to give me a
parting salute, some running down the steep incline
and plunging into the water, in which they disport
themselves like fish.
To me the main interest in Yandoon was centred
in the native craft moored along its banks, whose quaint
beauty seems to increase the more one sees of them,
their extraordinarily high sterns becoming quite a fas-
cination. Many of these structures, already rich with
carving, are still further ornamented by projecting
sticks on which are stuck inverted soda-water bottles,
which glitter in the sunshine. I am told that the
rowers frequently have beside them piles of bottles to
be used as weapons in case of dacoity, a not unusual
occurrence ; and as the use of firearms is forbidden to
123
Burma
the natives, these bottles serve as a very effective means
of defence.
The river here is wide, the banks on either side
being low and, generally speaking, heavily clothed with
foliage. The scenery is simple in character, consisting
generally of a succession of pretty " bits " of con-
siderable pictorial value. Here, for instance, crowning
a bank of peculiarly soft colouring and texture, is an
enormous banyan-tree shading a number of thatched
buildings, from amongst which rises a " tagundaing "
with its streamer, which marks a shrine. A short
distance from it a lofty toddy -palm rises from a
mulberry plantation, while close down to the water's
edge are a couple of " laung-zats," undergoing repairs
at the builders' hands. A simple enough scene, but
one in which the beautifully contrasting foliage and
local colour, perfectly repeated in the water below,
combine to form a picture of great beauty. Indeed,
some of these water-side bits are extremely pretty, the
different builds and rigs of the boats, the great variety
of tropical foliage, and the occasional pagodas or
monasteries giving to each its distinctive character ;
and in all cases additional beauty is derived from the
reflection in the water, which, due to its opacity, almost
perfectly repeats the life it carries and the picturesque
banks which confine it.
During the day Donabyu was reached, the scene of
the fight with Bandoola in the first Burmese war, but
now largely given up to the manufacture of cheroots,
which has become an industry here. In fact, of all
124
ON THE LOWER IRRAWADDY
Rangoon to Prome
Burman cheroots those from Donabyu are considered
the best and command the highest prices. They are
made and the trade entirely conducted by women, but
unfortunately it is difficult to ensure the same quality
for any length of time from any given maker, for no
sooner does the lady proprietress of a cigar manufactory
gather a good clientele about her than she either
lowers the quality of her cigars, or sells the business as
a going concern to some one else, and starts again in
opposition !
Henzada was reached after nightfall, the last two
hours of our journey being accomplished by means of
the electric search-light. The effect of this was very
curious when turned upon the banks, the trees appear-
ing to be quite flat, like the wings in a theatre, throw-
ing crisp black shadows upon those beyond in strong
contrast with the glowing silver of the illuminated
portions. In the band of light which traversed the
darkness between the steamer and the shore swarmed
thousands of insects, and, as corners in the river were
rounded, or the light thrown upon the bank whereon a
village stood, all the youngsters of the place would
rush pell-mell down the banks to gambol in its weird
illumination.
The following morning, having passed the last of
the creeks through which the Irrawaddy finds the sea,
we entered the undivided water which, coming from
an unknown source, is navigable for large steamers for
looo miles of its length. In many respects the river
is like the Nile — its banks are the same high mud walls,
125
Burma
cut into terraces by the scour of the water, and crowned
with foliage and native villages, and in its flow it has
the same oily swirl we know so well in Egypt. The
colouring of sky and water is also much the same, the
chief points of difference being in the build of the boats
and the nature of the vegetation on its banks. On the
other hand, the shores of the lower Irrawaddy are not
so full of incident as in the case of the Nile. The
people do not throng the watering-places as in Egypt,
and the absence of cattle on its banks is noticeable. I
was rather struck, however, near Myanaung to notice an
implement for water-raising almost identical with the
" shadoof" of Egypt. This consists of long bamboo
arms, erected on a high staging, working on a swivel,
and from which depend buckets and ropes with which
the water is raised for the cultivation of betel in the
farms behind, the raised water being emptied into
troughs of split bamboo, which serve as conduit pipes.
These are called, I believe, in Burmese " moung-le."
Myanaung is a pretty village, having a village green
and a very handsome group of pagodas, which by the
way are kept in excellent repair. Close by this
principal group, however, is a ruined pagoda, so
entirely encircled by ficus that it is difficult to discover
that it is not simply a huge tree, and it is only in the
dry season when the leaves have fallen that any signs
of the masonry of the pagoda are visible.
I found here that there was an English school-
master, and many of the native children are learning
to speak English, and, unfortunately, to adopt our
126
Rangoon to Prome
clothing. I met some boys idling on the green, and
asked them why they were not playing football or some
other game. Their reply was, " Oh ! this is a holiday."
I could not help speculating as to the future of these
little prigs ; superior to their parents in education, will
they grow up as Burmans, or develop into those
swaggering nondescripts now, alas, so often met with in
the larger towns in Burma ^
So far the river has been tidal, and the scenery
quietly tropical in character. After the second day,
however, the aspect of the river changes somewhat, and
from the west bank rise hills of gradually increasing
height, the beginning of the Arracan Yomas.
Some little distance above Myanaung occurs an
interesting feature in Gaudama Hill. This is a cliff
which rises from the water's edge to a height of
perhaps 150 feet, the whole surface of which is carved
into niches containing reclining or seated Buddhas,
while many other panels depict incidents of his life.
Many of these are gilt, others whitewashed, but the
whole effect of the cliff, partially screened as it is by
feathery tree-tops and hanging creepers, is striking and
curious. Unfortunately the steamers do not stop here,
and tourists have no opportunity of a nearer inspection,
and as we were under way even a " snap shot " in
passing was out of the question, the cliff facing north
and the light being insufficient for the purpose. I
understand that only at one hour of the day can this
be done, and that is when the first flush of sunrise
illuminates the cliff, which shortly afterwards, and for
127
Burma
the rest of the day, becomes entirely shaded. The
hills here as elsewhere in Burma are heavily clothed
with vegetation, amongst which the delicate green of
the bamboo is always conspicuous. Along the water's
edge native life is gradually becoming more apparent,
the villages more frequent and more populous, while
large herds of cattle wander along the shore. In the
fields agricultural pursuits are in full swing, and an
ingenious cradle formed of nets on a bamboo frame
occupies the fishermen at the water's edge.
This fishing cradle merits description. Two frames
of bamboo are fixed at right angles to each other, and
swing on a pivot formed by a dug-out canoe. The
frame towards the river supports the net, which by
means of a rope attached to the other is lowered
into the water, where it is allowed to remain for
some time. It is presently hauled up, particularly
immediately after the passing of a steamer, which
frightens the fish in-shore. As the cage is slowly
raised, such fish as the net has enclosed tumble into
the canoe, while the water pours through the meshes.
I asked a Burman one day how it was that a man of
his religion could bring himself to kill fish in such a
wholesale manner. His reply was ingenuous. " I do
not kill the fish," he said ; " if they are stupid enough
to get into my net and tumble into my canoe I cannot
help it ; besides," he added, " I do not kill them, they
die of themselves."
I understand that a license is required for fishing by
means of cradle, but a great deal of other fishing goes on
128
uciAWA>f«i 3h;
NET FISHING ON THE IRRAWADDY
Rangoon to Prome
in the Irrawaddy and other Burman streams, alike by
means of hand-net, spear, and basket. The Burmans
are very fond of flesh food, from which their religion
practically precludes them ; fish, therefore, is always
in great demand, their consciences being clear on the
point. In addition to the cradles along the shore,
almost every sand-bank in the river is occupied by
fishermen, many of whom build huts upon them and
reside there the whole of the period between floods.
Some of these fishing settlements are in reality villages,
to which the fishermen transfer their families and live
stock for the season, and in one instance I saw that
they had even gone the length of erecting a small
pagoda. At Prome quite an extensive and well-built
bazaar for the sale of ngapi is erected along the water's
edge, which, together with the settlements on the sand-
banks, is swept away by the monsoon floods, only to
be re-erected the following season as the river falls.
As is the case in all warm- water -streams the fish
caught in the Irrawaddy are usually coarse and some-
what " flabby," the one great exception being the hilsa,
which is usually caught in these tidal waters and is very
delicious, quite the best fish to be found in Burma.
It is, however, such a mass of bones, all jumbled
together like a tangle of fish hooks, that it is almost
impossible to separate the meat from the skeleton.
I signally failed in my eflforts to do so. The native
servants, however, have acquired the knack of carving
the fish both quickly and neatly.
The whole river trip from Rangoon to Prome is
129 17
Burma
one of quiet fascination difficult to describe, for though
it is without any specially marked feature, every hour
brings some object of interest, some fresh incident of
native life, or some new feature of the river itself or
the varied craft it carries.
Failing other attractions, the deck passengers on the
steamer are an endless source of amusement, and the
handling of the cargo at the various stopping-places is
interesting, and throws considerable light upon the
requirements of the people and the nature of the trade
carried on.
Here are some items of the cargo carried by the
Beloo^ in which I was travelling : —
Large cases of Japanese safety
machines.
Oil from U.S.A.i
Dried meat (in bales).
Pickled eggs from China (in
sealed air-tight pots).
Dried fish from the Straits
Settlements.
Soap, acids, and hardware.
Sugar.
Cocoanut-oil and ngapi.
Crockery and lamps (English).
Cases of " Scotch " whisky
(labelled "made in Germany").
Flour for native troops (Atta).
These items were gathered at haphazard, and in no
way complete the range of a very varied cargo. I was
forced to the conclusion, however, from what I saw,
that many articles imported into Burma ought to have
been of English manufacture, instead of coming from
other countries — Germany perhaps being our keenest
competitor.
^ The great bulk of the oil carried up-country is refined Burma oil
from Rangoon refineries, though a considerable quantity still comes from
America.
130
DRIFTING
i
?
';*«iiv4
Rangoon to Prome
Most of the stopping-places on the river are marked
by a covered barge moored alongside the bank as a
combined landing-stage and warehouse.
As the stage is neared, the crew, who are, I think,
mostly Chittagonians, dive into the water, carrying with
them a line with which to haul in the hawser. There
always appeared to be a good-natured rivalry among
them as to who should land first, and as they are all
good swimmers these periodical races were interesting
to watch.
In a great many places where there is no stage the
bow of the steamer is simply run into the bank, and a
plank put out from the sponson, up and down which
surge the crowds waiting to land or embark, laden with
their sometimes bulky impedimenta. Collisions of
course ensue, and many a wetting results, in one case
the postman carrying H.M. mails being swept off his
feet into the river below. He was quickly picked up,
however, fortunately without damage to himself or the
mail-bags.
Wherever I happened to land I found the people
polite and unobtrusive, and even when painting in their
villages I was entirely free from any annoyance. The
villagers would squat behind me in a semicircle talking
in whispers, no noise or rudeness ever occurring,
though one young lady to whom I passed my sketch
for her inspection, after looking at it for a long time
upside down, returned it to me with the remark that
" she thought it very bad " ! As a set-off to this un-
conscious rebuff was the action of an older woman,
131
Burma
who, after shikohing to me herself, made her one-year-
old infant place its little hands together and do the
same ! It was very pretty, but such graceful acts were
not infrequent.
Having promised myself some work at Prome I
left the steamer here with much regret. Though one
of the older mail boats, I had found the Beloo z very
comfortable ship in which to travel, while Captain
Wright, her commander, seemed unable to do enough
to add to my pleasure or further my work. I was
very sorry to part company with him, and am glad of
this opportunity of acknowledging his many acts of
kindness.
132
CHAPTER VIII
ONE THOUSAND MILES UP THE IRRAWADDY
(PROME TO BHAMO)
Instead of at this stage entering upon any narration of
my experiences at Prome, it will be more convenient, I
think, if I conclude my description of the river first,
leaving the consideration of this and other towns to a
later chapter. On the nth of January, therefore, I
joined the express steamer India^ and proceeded on
my journey towards Bhamo.
Prome seems to me to be the point which naturally
determines the upper and lower portions of the river.
The tidal waters and flat land of the Delta are past, and
from this point upwards the characteristics of the river
are entirely those common to all great streams which
are subject to periodic floods.
The highlands, which began some little distance
south of Prome, continue without interruption so far
as the west bank of the river is concerned, the east, or
left bank, being still composed of the same high and
verdure-clad walls of mud, on whose terraced surface
the varying levels of the water are recorded.
133
Burma
Between these banks the river "sweeps in majestic
curves, which impress with an ever-growing feeling of
bigness and dignity. Some of the reaches are wide,
having almost the appearance of an inland sea ; in
others the rocky banks confine the stream more
narrowly, but in either case it is always impressively
beautifuk
In flood time the whole width of the river is open
to navigation, but as the level falls this becomes increas-
ingly difficult, a fact plainly demonstrated by the wrecks
of steamers and other craft to be met with from time
to time.
Like all flood rivers the Irrawaddy changes its course
annually, and is at considerable trouble and expense
re-surveyed each year by the Flotilla Company as the
water falls and the sand-banks begin to appear.
The often tortuous channels are marked by buoys
of bamboo, which are anchored by sand-bags, and are
differentially coloured according to the side of the
channel upon which they are placed. Owing to the
glare of sunlight upon the water it was often a difficult
matter to pick up these buoys, until one of the captains
of the mail steamers suggested the ingenious plan of
suspending from the head of the buoy a disc of tin,
which, swinging about as the bamboo bent and vibrated
in the eddies, caught the sun's rays and flashed its
danger signal like a heliograph.
In addition to these precautions, the lead is kept
constantly going from either side, while in some of the
more diflScult passages a pilot launch is stationed in
134
Prome to Bhamo
order to give the larger steamers a " lead " through the
reach to which it is appointed.
Drift logs, debris of all kinds, as well as an occasional
wreck, may at any moment impede navigation, to
guard against which the Company have a small fleet
of salvage steamers constantly employed in removing
obstructions ; and, in order to lessen any risk of
grounding, barges are lashed alongside the steamers for
cargo purposes during the dry season, thereby reducing
their draught to about four feet.
On the Mandalay-Bhamo section these barges are
double-decked, and give an added interest to the jour-
ney, the main deck being allotted to general cargo and
any animals which may be carried, while the upper deck
is a native bazaar. The different sections, or stalls, are
held by the same people year after year, who, starting
from Mandalay well stocked with imports, do a thriving
business at all the stopping-places as well as among
their fellow-passengers en route. On the return journey
native produce takes the place of the imported article,
and as few of the villages along the river have bazaars
of their own, this floating market is the only one avail-
able, and the business done is very lucrative. There is
great competition among the natives for accommodation
on these boats, but so long as they pay their tolls and
behave themselves, no holders of stalls are disturbed in
their possession, which I am told often pass from one
generation to another.
Independent of the regular stopping - places the
native frequently manages to board the steamer in a
Burma
variety of ways. Sometimes in response to their cries
the steamer will slow down and the would-be passenger,
plunging into the water, is soon alongside and is hauled
on board by many willing hands. More generally a
dug-out canoe shoots out from the bank, and the boat-
men hanging on to the after part of the steamer
manage to transfer its passengers and baggage while the
steamer is under way. Here is another filled with
bright -coloured fruit and vegetables. A half- naked
Burman is paddling at the stern, and at the bow squats
a woman dressed for the bazaar, and shaded by the usual
semi-transparent native umbrella which bathes her in a
golden half-tone. Courtesy demands a halt in order to
embark so attractive a passenger ; but more imperative
was the method adopted in another case, where the canoe,
manned by two men with poles, was held up across
stream and right in the middle of the only passage
available for the steamer, which was perforce obliged
to stop. The passenger scrambled in over the bows,
caring litde apparendy for the rating he received from
the captain for " stopping the mail."
Of the many incidents of the river none perhaps is
more interesting than the studies of human nature
frequenting the landing-places and river front. At
every stage is the usual crowd of natives landing or
joining the steamer, coolies handling the cargo which
is brought down seemingly impossible declivities by
bullock gharries, to which nothing in the shape of bad
roads seems impossible. At various points the shore
is stacked high with eng wood, — fuel for the steamer,
136
ifti VAC
WAITING FOR THE STEAMER EARLY MORNING
.sill
«
. ■ "-wmM
Prome to Bhamo
which is put on board by lusty young women who work
by piece work, and do not spare themselves.
Along the river's brink are seated groups of fisher-
men, offering for barter or for pice the fish their baskets
hold, and which from time to time are dipped into the
water in order to preserve in them some semblance of
freshness ; while against any convenient stone, or baulk
of wood, the village " dobie " beats the life and texture
out of such garments as he may be engaged in washing.
Girls come and go to fill their water chatties or bathe in
the river. They are always attractive, and swim like
fish in spite of their clinging lungyi, for they always
enter the water clothed. There is usually a dry
garment in reserve, however, and I noticed that it is
held out to the wind and inflated, and then quickly
slipped over the body as the wet one falls. Always
modest, the Burmese woman is never more so than
when bathing. Yet they are by no means bashful or
self-conscious, and 1 was much amused one day in watch-
ing the al fresco toilet of one of these dusky beauties.
The lady in question, carrying a chattie, came down
to the water's edge, and, squatting on a small bamboo
raft which happened to be there, filled the chattie with
water and commenced to wash her hair. Her hair was
very long, and she gave it a thoroughly good washing,
taking out the tangles from time to time with a small
wooden comb ; then quickly twisting it into a knot at
the front of her head, she left it to dry in the sun, and
drawing out of the chattie a long tail oi false hair,
proceeded to wash it as thoroughly as she had done her
137 18
Burma
own. Stepping into the water, clothes washing followed
complete body ablutions, and after slipping on a dry
lungyi she gathered up her wet belongings, climbed the
bank and disappeared. I have since learnt that this
false tail of hair is really the girl's own " combings,"
which she keeps and makes into an extra coil to add to
her already luxuriant tresses on festival days
At Thayetmyo I witnessed a somewhat similar
operation. A number of men belonging to a Punjaubi
regiment were seated in a line in front of their barracks,
each with a bucket of water by his side, and each
employed in washing and dressing the long hair of the
man in front of him. I do not know how the last man
in the line fared, but no doubt his turn came later !
These are some of the incidents of the banks. In
midstream the enormous teak rafts drift slowly on their
tedious voyage to the sea, others made of bamboo are
carrying the heavy pyingado logs which, unable to float,
are slung beneath the raft. Each has its crew of almost
nude Burmans or Shans, whose duty consists entirely in
keeping the head of the raft straight, which they do by
means of a number of oars, built of bamboo, which are
lashed at either end. Most of their time is spent in
drowsing, however, probably the effect of smoking
" g^^g^^j" ^ ^^^ ^^^ rafts, swinging across stream, often
impede the steamer's traffic, for they are heavy weights
to bump into and must be avoided. Many of them
are so crowded with huts as to resemble a village afloat,
and often carry live stock, while a great many smaller
1 A preparation of hemp seed similar to the hashlih of Egypt.
Prome to Bhamo *
rafts have been constructed specially for the transport of
cattle, in which a large trade is carried on, and for which
the boats or steamers at present on the river apparently
do not sufficiently cater.
It would be wearisome were I to dwell at length
upon every feature of the river, though a description of
a few of its specially characteristic reaches will serve to
give a broad impression of the whole.
We left Thayetmyo in the early morning, as soon
as the sun had finally dissipated the usual fog, the
river being wide and its scenery of the same quiet
character I have already described.
Under a hot sun and almost cloudless sky the oily
stream reflected each object, and against its deep-toned
blue the red sails of the boats and glittering sand-banks
stood out powerfully.
On the west the blue height of Mount Victoria is
only hazily visible above the wooded Yomas, and on
the east the interesting but now extinct volcano Popa
dominates the arid plain which surrounds it. On the
river bank and standing out in bold relief against the
distant mountains is Pagan-nge, or little Pagan, its gilded
and white pagodas glimmering among the foliage.
On the opposite side of the river a gentle slope,
covered with trees, among which appear the low-pitched
roofs of native houses, leads to a succession of zayats
and kyaungs which climax in an abruptly conical hill,
also crowned by its pagoda.
At intervals along the banks are little patches of
cultivation, onions, peas, and beans being planted in
139
* Burma
the soft mud as the water recedes. In the shallows
wild geese or cranes are fishing, or basking by hundreds
on the banks, and cormorants rest idly on the surface
of the river or fly, startled, across the steamer's bows.
Being January, autumn tints are beginning, and
here and there on the hillsides the white smoke of
forest fires adds to the general sense of warmth and
dreaminess. Indeed, not even on the Nile can one so
thoroughly enjoy an idle rest, or one wherein the
scenery so fully accords with one's dreamy instinct, as
on these quiet reaches of the Irrawaddy. Here all
nature is serenely beautiful, and from a distant village
the rich softness of a hpungyi's gong stealing over the
limpid water seems to strike the mellow keynote of
the scene.
In its general character the scenery of the Irrawaddy
is one of sun-bathed beauty, placid and perhaps a little
commonplace looked at broadly, for these beautiful
serrated hills, which rise tier upon tier to mountains
of considerable height, are so completely swathed in
tropical vegetation, that outlines which might under
other circumstances be full of character are so smoothed
down by vegetable growth as almost to appear like mossy
mounds, which the passenger enjoys with contentment
though without stimulation ; yet every bit of this
river scenery is full of interesting points, which excite
inquiry or demand a mental note. It is startling, for
instance, to pass in one week from the dark - green
mango swamps of the Delta to the dry zone, where
many of the trees are already bare and the rest in their
140
Prome to Bhamo
autumn foliage. The coloration is splendid, ranging
from the pale green of the bamboo to the scarlet-coated
cotton-tree, or the more lovely terra-cotta tint of the
dhak. Most of the tree-trunks are sun-bleached and
white, the general effect of the colour scheme being a
mauve or pinkish tint, relieved at the water's edge by
the vivid green of trees and shrubs, whose supply of
moisture is perennial.
On my return journey some months later, after the
dry season and forest fires had denuded the trees of
their foliage, the character of the river scenery had
undergone a marked change, and what on the upward
journey had appeared as gently rounded hillocks now
revealed themselves as bold and rugged mountains,
full of distinction and in strange contrast to their
gentler aspect of spring.
If the first dominant characteristic of the river
scenery is the luxuriance of its forest growth, the
second surely is the enormous number of pagodas
which adorn both banks of the river throughout its
entire length. It would almost seem as though the
Burman regarded each hillock as specially provided
by nature as a pediment for his religious buildings.
Their number is surprising and may, I think, be reason-
ably taken as a proof of the activity of the Buddhist
religion. Most of them, however, are ruinous, for
though the builder of a pagoda obtains " merit " by so
doing, no reward falls to the lot of the repairer of
such edifices, consequently any one able to do so
prefers to build a pagoda of his own rather than, by
141
Burma
repairing or beautifying an existing shrine, add to the
kudos attaching to its founder. This belief explains
the multiplication of pagodas, though it does not apply-
to some of the more noted shrines, such as the Arracan
pagoda at Amarapura, the Shwe Dagon in Rangoon,
and several others in the country which are the objects
of pilgrimage, and upon which devotees lavish gold
freely.
It is curious to notice the extraordinary positions in
which some of these pagodas are placed : in the heart
of the forest and unfrequented jungle they are
x:onstantly met with ; on the crest of a precipitous
Tock in the middle defile is a beautiful little zedi
which must have been erected under conditions of
extreme difficulty ; but most extraordinary of all, perhaps,
is that one built on the top of a boulder balanced on
the edge of a precipice at Kyiak-Ti-Yo in the Thaton
district.
There are two spots on the river which, beyond any
others, emphasise this extraordinary predilection of the
Burmese for pagoda-building, — the one, that beautiful
succession of terraced hills, literally covered with
pagodas, all that now remain of the old capital Sagaing ;
the other, that magnificent congregation of temples,
dating from the eleventh century, which render the
now ruined and deserted city of Pagan unique in
Burma.
1 will never forget my first approach to Pagan in the
early morning. The river wound along the base of fair-
sized hills which, rather curiously, were almost entirely
142
THE LANDING-PLACE AT NYAUNG-U
Prome to Bhamo
barren, though glorious in colour as the early morning
sun illuminated them. The opposite side consisted of
the abrupt edge of the plain, which rose gradually to
the base of Mount Popa, still visible in the distance^
Along the edge of this muddy cliff and stretching far
inland were the ruined monuments of Pagan, mostly
square-built temples surmounted by cupolas and
pinnacles, different in character from anything I had
hitherto seen, though the bell-shaped form occurs in the
golden Shwe Zigon and in the little Bu pagoda which
rises in a succession of terraces from the water's edge.
Unfortunately the steamers do not stop at Pagan
itself, though many picturesque and striking views
of the old city are obtainable as the river winds
in sweeping curves round the enormous sand -banks
to the north, until twenty minutes later the steamer
enters the expansive reach which lies above the city,
and draws up at the landing-place of Nyaung-u, the
modern successor to the glorious old city five miles
away. It is somewhat unfortunate that tourists have not
the opportunity of thoroughly exploring old Pagan, not
only one of the most historically interesting spots in
Burma, but one well worth seeing on pictorial grounds
alone. As it is, no means of communication exists
between Nyaung-u and Pagan proper, and at the best
the length of time the steamers remain here is barely
sufficient for the most active of her passengers to
undertake the tedious walk which will enable him to
enjoy a brief half-hour in the beautiful Shwe Zigon
pagoda. I would like to suggest the possibility of
H3
Burma
establishing a rest-house in the old town, under the
charge of an English-speaking custodian, where visitors
might remain until the arrival of a following steamer,
and so be able to see something at least of its more
celebrated monuments. Through the courtesy of
friends I was enabled to stay for some little time here,
but with that I will deal in another chapter.
Between here and Mandalay is an interesting reach
of the river where, at Pakokku,^ the Chindwin empties
itself into the Irrawaddy. The banks on either side
are flat, but evidently fertile, while the river is probably
at its broadest point. To the north, behind the belt of
foliage which crowns the banks, lies a plain which ter-
minates in the blue mountains that lie between the
Mu river and the Irrawaddy at Sagaing, against which
stands out in bold relief the white circular dome of the
enormous Kaung-Hmu-Dau pagoda.
This stretch of the river was peculiarly lovely as I
saw it. In the soft blue of the sky float delicately
tinted clouds, whose reflections long drawn down the
glassy surface of the water seem to add to the feeling
of fulness and expanse which characterise it. Along
the bank slide the always fascinating native boats, while
others glide slowly, almost sleepily, along the river.
Suddenly the stillness of the scene is broken, as the
powerful " marsia," pursuing the small fry on which it
^ Pakokku, by the way, is the great centre of boat - building on the
Irrawaddy. From here also the Flotilla Company run a service of steamers
274 miles up the Chindwin to Kindat, with an extension line of smaller
vessels to Homalin, 147 miles farther. I was unable to make this journey
myself, but I am told that the scenery on the Chindwin is particularly fine.
144
y ^OMA'i \h ilJ VJ H I fl
THE RIVER AT PAKOKKU
m
.;-*«
n
Prome to Bhamo
feeds, skims the surface of the water like a silver flash,
sometimes leaping clear of the water in its impetuosity,
while close by on a sand-bank an alert black and white
heron bides his time to strike the surfeited fish. To
the south and east the river is full of shoals, on which
thousands of water-birds, principally geese, are busy
feeding, a sight very tempting to a sportsman ; and as
the steamer could not by any possibility approach
within range for a shot-gun, we tried a few long-range
shots with Martini-Henrys, but without success, for
though in one or two cases we saw " feathers fly " we
failed to bag a bird ; what became of the ricochetted
bullets remained a problem ! I noticed one of these
geese swimming in the channel which, after a dive, had
managed to catch a large fish by the tail. Then
ensued an interesting struggle. Too big to swallow
and too heavy to lift, the goose's head was almost con-
tinuously under water, and it stood a very good chance
of being drowned. However, by vigorous swimming
and beating the water with its wings, it managed to
tow its unmanageable captive and land it high and dry
upon a sand -bank, where, after recovering from the
exhaustion of the fight, it devoured it at leisure.
The approach to Mandalay is very pretty, the limpid
river flowing between shelving banks of sand sur-
mounted by forest trees, behind which the lofty Shan
hills rise hazily into the air. From among the green
foliage of the banks appear the white temples of
Amarapura, and Mandalay Hill, also crowned by a
speck of white, shows up ruddy in the sunlight.
145 19
Burma
Presently the fort at Ava comes into sight, its red-
brick structure, covered by many pagodas, jutting into
the water from its wooded base ; while on the opposite
side, from the picturesque landing-place for the rail-
way ferry, commence the beautiful undulations of the
Sagaing hills.
This succession of hills forms one of the distinctive
notes of the river. The local colour of the rock is
rich and varied, the pearly grey of the shingle along
the beach contrasting with the ochres and reds of the
exposed portions of the rock above, while from among
the verdure with which the hills were generally clothed
innumerable pagodas, gleaming white, or brightly red
where time had removed the outer coating of stucco,
rose in successive tiers to the central hill, where the
largest of these pagodas crowned the apex. From each
of these pagodas flights of steps, bounded by whitened
walls, led to the lower levels, and from among the trees
which marked the extreme height of the river, enormous
leogryphs seemed to repel rather than invite the pilgrim
to ascend the approach to the temple they guarded.
The river is narrow here, and swirls in deep and
rapid eddies along the shore, across which gaily
coloured sampans act as ferries for dainty ladies and
their families from Mandalay, bent upon a picnic, or
perhaps devotions, at one of the more noted shrines.
Sagaing is an old capital of Burma, and, with Pagan,
shares the distinction of occupying a position of dignity.
In marked contrast, Mandalay, which lies some
distance from the water, on low-lying ground, is mean
146
EXPRESS STEAMER PASSING SAGAING
m
Prome to Bhamo
in its approach, and, except for the fact that three or
four landing-barges are moored along the banks instead
of one, has little to differentiate it from the poorest
village on the river.
From here a bi-weekly service of steamers runs to
Bhamo, but as their dates of sailing may not always be
suitable, an alternative route is offered by way of
Katha, at which point a daily service of ferry steamers
meets the trains, and thirty-six hours later reach what
is practically the frontier town, and the limit of
organised steamboat traffic on the Irrawaddy.
I travelled both ways — going up via Katha and
returning all the way by river.
Leaving Mandalay in the early afternoon by train,
Amarapura shore was reached at about 4 p.m., when
baggage and passengers were transferred to the ferry
which was to take us across the river.
During the time so occupied, a very refreshing
tea was served, and on reaching the landing-place at
Sagaing the train was alongside ready to receive us.
Here I found that without any request on my part the
stationmaster at Mandalay had wired to have a carriage
specially reserved for me, an act of courtesy which 1
appreciated not only for its own sake, but also because
it enabled me to offer to a friend more comfortable
quarters for the night (for we slept in the train) than
would otherwise have been possible for him to obtain ;
this coach, moreover, was marked " through," and so
saved us the worry of a change of carriages at Naba
junction in the early morning.
147
Burma
The line runs along the western side of the Sagaing
hills, now glowing in the sunset. To the west
stretches the great plain of arable land through which
the Mu river winds its devious way towards the
Irrawaddy. In the far distance, blue against the sunset
sky, rise the hills which border on the Chindwin, their
bases already lost in the rising mist which shortly
afterwards hides everything from view.
In the early morning, as we approached Naba,
the sunrise was very beautiful. To the east were
mountains, deep purple against the rosy sky, and
partially reflected in the irrigation water which covered
a foreground of paddy land, broken at intervals by
patches of forest growth. From the wet earth rose
wreaths of mist, winding slowly and snake-like among
the trees and up the sloping valleys, until, at a certain
elevation it blew off in clouds. Through these patches
of vapour the early sun shone in slanting beams, which
gilded the cane-brakes and tree-trunks, which shone in
contrast with the pearly greyness of the rest of the
landscape. It was a lovely and mysterious effect,
quickly succeeded by the full light of day, and our
own rapid passage downhill through rich forest scenery
until, at 9 a.m., we reached Katha.
Here our steamer, the Pouktan, was waiting to
embark us, starting upstream half an hour after the
arrival of the train.
The scenery above Katha is of the usual richly
wooded character, beautiful and varied as ever, but
calling for no special comment until at sunset we
148
AVA
> ,
f
Prome to Bhamo
moored for the night at Shwegu. Close to, on a spit
of sand by the water's edge, a native festival was in
progress. Here a town of booths had been constructed,
properly laid out in streets, and in its centre a pagoda.
Many thousands of people thronged its bazaars, enjoy-
ing the pwes, nautches, and other amusements common
to Burmese festivals. The river was alive with boats,
and the blaze of colour furnished by the crowd was
quite the most brilliant I had yet seen, and was admirably
set off by its background of tree-clad hills.
This festival, which I believe is called the Chun-
dau-pya, is an annual one, and is frequented by people
from the whole surrounding district.
The following morning we entered the middle defile,
and I was on deck early so as to miss nothing of what
is perhaps the strongest and most inspiring piece of
scenery on the whole Irrawaddy. As I came on deck
in the grey dawn the river was enveloped in fog.
Outside everything was dripping, and in our state-rooms
even the contents of our portmanteaux were damp and
clammy, so penetrating are these morning mists. The
banks were hardly visible, though the river is narrow
here, and the swiftly flowing water was almost black in
the lurid gloom which enshrouded us.
Almost suddenly the mist rose from the water and
hung upon the hills in heavy clouds just tipped with
sunlight. Below, in deepest shade, appeared the narrow
entrance to the defile itself, two walls of purple black-
ness between which still hung a slowly melting film of
grey. It was a very striking effect, perfectly repeated
149
Burma
in the absolutely still water. Very weird it was too as
our steamer plunged into this narrow gulf, from which
apparently there was no exit, until the sun finally
dissipated the last of the fog and revealed the whole
majesty and beauty of the scenery.
Now only about 200 yards in width, the river is
bounded by precipitous hills, which form a narrow
winding valley through which the confined water flows
in swift but silent eddies.
The whole passage of the defile, which occupies
several hours, is one of extreme beauty, culminating at
a point where a perpendicular cliff rises 800 feet clear
out of the water, at the foot of which, crowning a
pinnacle of rock at the water's edge, is the little Let-
saung-pan pagoda. From the brink of the river to the
crest of the hills is a dense mass of vegetation, every
crevice in the rocks affording foothold for forest tree
or creeper. Being winter the trees on the higher levels
are almost bare, exposing limestone bluffs coloured
with streaks and patches of red. Lower down the
golden brown of withered bamboo clumps contrast with
the vivid green of orchids. Along the water's edge
the dark-leaved banyan is still covered, and the white
and green blossom of the mango mingles with the
flaming scarlet of the cotton-tree or the purple cones ot
the wisteria. It was all extremely beautiful, especially
as the reflections in the water were almost perfect ; and
if this scene alone constituted the interest of the
Irrawaddy it would amply reward the traveller for his
journey.
150
\' (10 /-WAX
IJIK-KI <l /i>'.);i''. HHF '/I
IN THE SECOND DEFILE OF THE IRRAWADDY
Prome to Bhamo
Bhamo was reached at ii a.m., of which little town
I will have something to say later.
This point, however, 1030 miles above Rangoon,
terminated my river trip, for though the scenery of the
upper defile and the river to Myitkyina is extremely
beautiful, I am told, no service of steamers is provided
on these upper reaches, and the special launch which
had kindly been arranged for me, through some accident
was not available.
On the downward journey were many points of
interest, which I have not yet touched upon. Passing
through the defile from the other direction only served
to add to the strong impression already received, and
gave a second opportunity of noting many features of
grandeur or of beauty which at the first passage escaped
observation. Judging by the number of fishing cradles
along the banks, and the many hundreds of cormorants
which I saw, the river here must be peculiarly well
stocked with fish, and I noticed many new and
beautiful growths along its wooded banks.
At a point lower down the river were numbers of
elephants bathing in the stream. These had just been
caught in an adjacent " keddah," ^ and only a week
previously were roaming wild in the forests. At Tig-
yaung is a great and most picturesque bathing ghaut, and
some little way below Katha is the lower defile. This
cannot be compared with the one I have described, but it
is of extreme interest nevertheless, winding and rocky,
and is simply a variant in the general beauty of the river.
^ The large corral into which wild elephants are driven and captured.
Burma
Presently Thabeikkyin is reached, where ponies are
being laden with packs for the ruby mines, three days*
journey inland. Close by is a rocky islet, on which
stand a pagoda and monastery, the priests of which
are accredited with a curious power over the fish in the
river, which respond to their call and are fed by hand.
It was interesting also to notice the changed aspect
of the scenery in the hot weather compared with the early
spring, when I started upstream. The river had fallen
considerably, and the banks stood higher out of the
water, thereby changing one's point of view.
The luxuriant foliage of spring had given place to
bare trunks and apparently barren hill -sides, now
streaked with black — the tracks of forest fires whose
smoke was added to an atmosphere already heated and
opaque, while at night the hills were illuminated with
sinuous paths of flame.
At one place, many miles away from the nearest fire
(none indeed being in sight), continuous showers of
soot, charred leaves, and twigs fell upon our deck in
midstream, and during the period of these forest fires
the whole air seemed to become opaque, and even at
night was so dense that stars could not be seen below
30° above the horizon.
Many other points of interest occur to me, too
numerous to describe fully : the huge pagoda and bell
at Mingun, the fort at Minla, and the little frontier
station which, in the king's time, marked the boundary
between British and Native Burma. Here still stand
the two telegraph offices, each beside the pillars which
152
THE IRRAWADDY BANKS NEAR MYIN-GYAN
Prome to Bhamo
marked the frontier. In those days a telegram from
Rangoon to Mandalay would be received by the British
postmaster at his office, who, crossing the intervening
space would retransmit the telegram through the
Burmese office, paying for it as a new message. The
Burman in his turn was supposed to do the same, when
he had any money, but I am told that messages often used
to remain in his hands for days before being sent on !
Though my description of the life and scenery of
the river is necessarily very incomplete, perhaps I have
said enough to give a broad impression of some of its
essential features. Perhaps, not unnaturally, I have
compared it to the Nile, with which it has many
features in common, and though the local interest varies
it is in no way less interesting or beautiful.
Altogether the Irrawaddy trip is one of surpassing
interest, and the fine fleet of the Irrawaddy Flotilla
Company serves the tourist well. I have travelled by
many of their steamers, mail boats, cargo boats, and
little ferry steamers, and have in each case found the
accommodation, table, and attendance quite beyond
reproach. Indeed, not even on the Nile is the comfort
of passengers more carefully regarded.
There are, however, one or two suggestions I
should like to make to the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company
with a view of still further enhancing the pleasure of
the trip. In most of the steamers the fore part of the
upper deck, which is used as a lounge and for messing,
is so enclosed with curtains and wind screens that it is
sometimes difficult to appreciate the scenery through
153 20
Burma
which you are passing. 1 think it would add greatly
to the pleasure of the passengers if a small portion of
this deck, immediately at the bow, were left entirely
open both at the sides and looking ahead, so that it
would be possible to sit and enjoy the beauties of the
river in comfort, without having to move from one
side to the other as points of special interest are passed.
One of the steamers, the India^ has this arrangement,
which could, I think, be applied to the whole fleet with
advantage. At night also, when moored to the bank, a
-piano on all the steamers would be a great boon to the
passengers, who must depend for the evening's amuse-
ment upon themselves. ^
It might also perhaps be feasible for the Company
to put on the river some small steamers of the class of
their ferry boats, which could be hired by a small party,
who, free from any restriction as to times and dates,
would be able to enjoy this remarkable river at their
leisure. I feel sure that a system of steam "dahabiehs,"
such as exists on the Nile, would be well supported,
and could not fail to be remunerative to the Company.
Taken all in all, the river service is admirably done, the
steamers are as good as or better than any similar ones I
have seen elsewhere, and everything reasonably possible
is done to ensure the safety and comfort of their
patrons.
1 Since writing the above I am glad to hear that in all the later express
steamers the fore decks have a clear space, such as I have suggested, and I
am also informed that all the express steamers now have pianos on board.
154
CHAPTER IX
TWO CAPITALS
Never were preconceived ideas so completely shattered
as were my own with regard to Mandalay ! I had
expected to find a handsome city of Oriental character,
instead of which it proved to be as mean as its river
approach.
Climbing the high bund which protects the low-
lying city from inundation, a drive of two miles or
more, through streets lined with huts as poor as any I
had seen in the country, brought me to the " fort," in
the immediate neighbourhood of which is the only part
of the city which can boast of any architectural pre-
tension, though even here hovels lie between "pukha " ^
built shops or the bungalows of residents.
It must be remembered, however, that Mandalay is
but fifty years old, and the ancient habit of the Burmans
of removing their capitals to new sites as kings or
dynasties succeeded each other, has tended to check the
building of anything more permanent than a wooden
house. Pagodas and religious edifices are, of course, an
^ " Proper," i.e. of masonry or brick.
Burma
exception to this rule, and Mandalay, like other large
centres in Burma, possesses many of extreme beauty.
The city is well planned, however, and is laid out in
rectangles. Four main thoroughfares, called A, B, C,
and D Streets, run at right angles to the river ; crossing
these are others, which are numbered, though many
have names also, such as 29th Fire Station Road, 84th
Bazaar Street, etc. etc., a system which, though hardly
picturesque, has its advantages, for such an address as
" the corner of B and 22 nd Streets " could not well be
mistaken. Generally the streets are wide and shaded
by trees, but are, as a rule, badly paved and very dusty.
Each has its public fountain or well, at all times of the
day thronged by a continual succession of figure groups,
and at frequent intervals, rising from among the foliage
which hides much of the poverty of the place, are hand-
some pagodas, kyaungs, or Chinese temples, which come
upon one as a surprise, and please accordingly.
The commercial centre lies at the south-west corner
of the fort, and appears to be prosperous, though the
stucco buildings are as devoid of character as those of
Alexandria or Port Said. For the rest, the town is
simply an enlarged Burmese village, dilapidated but
picturesque.
But though their environment is somewhat sordid,
the people themselves wear the gayest of gay costumes,
and appear to be happily unconscious of their surround-
ings, which, however, they make some attempt to
beautify by planting about their homes sunflowers,
geranium, hybiscus, poinsettia, and other flowers ; and
156
A CHINESE PAWN-SHOP ^IVlANDALAY
Two Capitals
with some deference to the demands of taste, colour the
corrugated-iron roofings of their houses a dull terra-
cotta, which robs the material of some of its uncom-
promising ugliness.^
The Chinaman is much in evidence, and, as usual,
has a good house and looks prosperous and happy ; the
Burmans also look happy, because they allow nothing
on earth to worry them. Indian natives are numerous,
but by comparison appear mean and cringing, though
their women walk with agility and grace, while the
native regiments and police compel our admiration.
Broadly, Mandalay differs little from Rangoon so
far as its inhabitants are concerned, except in one par-
ticular, and that is, that its alien peoples are alien, and
the Burman predominates. It is a Burmese city built
for Burmans, and, excepting for a few of the commercial
streets, almost solely occupied by them.
Food-stuffs and fabrics seem to form the bulk of
the trade of Mandalay, and the streets are bright with
groups of animated ladies seeking fresh adornment in
the bazaars, or displaying the latest fashions in figured
silks and parasols as they promenade. Sober business
is only suggested by the houses of the Indian money-
lenders, curiously decorated in red and white, whose
evil influence extends far beyond Mandalay to the
mortgaged crops of the farm-lands ; while the reckless
' The use of corrugated iron is becoming more and more general in
Burma. Not only has it entirely supplanted the pretty wood shingles
formerly used for roofing, but in many cases entire houses are built of it
and sheet-iron, and with extreme ingenuity the builders (who are mostly
Chinese) often manage to invest them with some architectural character.
Burma
gambler (and Burma is full of them) finds accommoda-
tion at one of the many Chinese pawn-shops, whose
sign and lantern of vivid red strike a bold note of
colour in the streets.
Among the infinite variety of delicate tints which
glorify the streets of Mandalay, one costume alone
appeared to me to be disagreeable in colour, and that is
the "yellow robe of poverty" of the hpungyi. The
cloth is coloured by a dye extracted from the cutch
wood by boiling, which imparts a vivid and raucous
yellow tint to the material treated. In a few instances
where old garments, sun-bleached and faded, have been
patched by a newer material, a little variety of tint
renders the costume somewhat more picturesque, but
as a rule the colour is harsh and unpleasant ; the lines
and folds of the costume, however, are distinctly good,
it being worn somewhat after the fashion of the Roman
toga, the right arm and shoulder being exposed.
No type is more common in the streets than the
hpungyi, who every morning sallies forth to collect
" sun," as the offering of food is called. No request
for alms is ever made, whatever is given being the
voluntary and spontaneous act of the donor. Each
monastery, however, has its own particular quarter
from which to collect, the work being done by priests
and novices, each of whom has a particular number of
houses upon which to call. Some with bowls in their
hands, others carrying a larger receptacle, slung on a
pole resting on the shoulders of two of them, and
accompanied by the sound of a gong, they regularly
158
THE MOAT AT MANDALAY
Two Capitals
and in silence present themselves at the various thresh-
olds in their district, the food, consisting largely of
rice, being equally silently placed in the receptacles
without any exchange of compliments or thanks.
The most distinctive feature of Mandalay is perhaps
the fort, in and about which are the houses of the
principal residents and Government officials, military
quarters, and the supremely picturesque palace of the
king. Built by Mindon Min, Thebaw's father, the
fort is a space of i ^ miles square, surrounded by a high
battlemented wall of red brick, in which are twelve
gates, each surmounted by a handsome pyathat of
carved teak. Each gate is screened by a masonry
traverse ; and at a distance of 20 yards from the
wall, and entirely surrounding the fort, is a moat, 100
feet wide and about 12 in depth, crossing which five
bridges give access to the principal gates. The moat,
which forms the main supply of drinking-water for the
town, is covered with purple lotus and is the haunt of
ibis and other waders. The water is much the colour
of weak tea, has a strong flavour, and cannot, I think,
be wholesome ; but, especially in the evening, when
picturesque groups of people of varied costume and
type assemble to draw their drinking-water, it forms
one of the prettiest views in Mandalay.
Beside each gate is a large round post of teak, on
which, on an iron plate, is inscribed in Burmese characters
the following curious proclamation : —
The extraordinary Gate of the Great Golden Royal City
which was founded on the night of the 6th after 3 beats
159
Burma
(of gong) ^ at 4 Nayi and 2 pads o'clock. ^ of the entry of
Monday 7th waning Kason 1221.2
Such a pronouncement prepares one for the names
of the gates themselves, which certainly do not err on
the side of modesty ! Among these are : " Receiving
submission of the whole island." " Melodious drum."
" Conspicuous." " Mandalay's head." " Receiving
submission of 10,000 nations," etc.
From these gates wide roads run parallel to each
face of the wall, and lead to the gardens which surround
the palace itself. Thanks to a wealth of varied foliage,
all gardens in Burma are pretty, and in this case
ornamental waters add greatly to their charm. The
palace itself is in reality a collection of twenty or
more separate buildings, all built of specially selected
teak brightly painted and gilded, and having the same
upturned eaves and carved ornamentation common to
aU royal or religious buildings in Burma. It has many
audience-chambers, in each of which is a carved and
gilded throne. Above the principal one towers the
lofty and elegant pyathat called by the Burmans " the
centre of the universe"; on either side is a large hall,
one now being used as the English church, the other
remaining in its original condition, a large open pavilion
supported by rows of columns of teak-wood which,
together with the roof, are covered with gold-leaf.
Behind are several other buildings, used as domestic
offices or lesser chambers of audience, each of which
is gilded and contains a throne richly decorated and
* 3. A.M. 2 I ^_8 A.M. 3 23rd May 1859.
160
THE CENTRE OF THE UNIVERSE MANDALAY
Two Capitals
standing on a raised platform, access to which is
obtained from behind by a passage and door which
admitted the monarch to his throne.
On the west side is the queen's palace, which con-
tains the largest of these audience-chambers. Here in
1875 the special envoys sent by the Viceroy of India to-
conclude a treaty with Mindon Min were compelled
to remove their boots and, kneeling at the threshold,
carry on their negotiations with the king, who, with
cool insolence, surveyed them through opera-glasses
from his throne at the farther end ! By a strange
irony of fate this particular portion of the palace is
now the Upper Burma Club ! Though nominally con-
fined to members, natives constantly wander through it,
and it is no uncommon sight to see a group of Burmans
calmly inspecting the picture papers on the tables before
continuing their stroll through the palace precincts, and
I was much amused on one occasion while looking at
the papers, to see the doors of the throne suddenly fly
open and a lady tourist, clad in helmet and white duck,
step on to the dais. She appeared very much surprised
to find herself so suddenly introduced to a room full
of men, and retired precipitately. The question of
our using this building as a club is a source of much
discussion. The Burmans, not unnaturally, dislike
it, and have made several attempts to fire it, as they
have already successfully done with other buildings
within the fort ; I cannot but feel, however, that it is
better to use it for any purpose and so ensure one
portion at least of a really interesting pile being kept
161 21
Burma
in order, rather than hand it over to the Burmans to
be destroyed or allowed to go to wreck and ruin.
Since I painted my picture of the palace front the
pyathat has, I hear, collapsed, and no doubt the whole
structure will sooner or later follow suit unless care-
fully watched. This the Club does, so far as its own
portion of the palace is concerned, and it seems to me
that the Government might well take over the other
buildings, which are quite unique, and would form
an excellent and appropriate home for a museum of
Burmese art.
It would be tedious if I were to describe the whole
of the palace, many parts of which are extremely
interesting. In the Club room is a large screen
dividing the reading and dining rooms, effectively
panelled in glass mosaic and mirrors, which, though
tinselly in a way, has, like the thrones, a certain
barbaric splendour ; and in a gallery connecting this
with other buildings is a massive balustrade of wood,
the turned pilasters of which are composed of bottle-
green glass. The effect of this in the sunlight, and
amid so much vermilion and gold, is very striking and
harmonious. Throughout the palace the roofs are
entirely of corrugated iron, which, possibly on account
of their height and large superficial area, do not offend.
In the palace grounds are many other buildings, all of
some particular interest, but which have been so fuUy
described in other books that it would be idle on my
part to enlarge further on the subject.
One of the great sights of Mandalay is the queen's
162
A PORTICO OF THE PALACE MANDALAY
Two Capitals
golden monastery, an ornate structure of teak elabor-
ately carved and gilded, and certainly as fine an example
of native architecture as any in the country. Originally
all the wood -work, and the stucco buttresses of the
steps leading on to the platform, were covered with
vermilion before being gilded, and as successive rains
gradually wore off much of both, exposing the warm
colour of the wood itself, the combination of tint is
simply splendid in its richness of tone, the effect of
which is further heightened by the cool glass mosaic
and silver inlay which distinguishes the doors.
The surroundings of the monastery, however, are
very dirty, and curs yelp and snap at all intruders.
The priests I found to be most kind and affable, and
through the medium of an interpreter I often enjoyed
a chat with them while resting in its cool and equally
ornate interior. This is only one of many such
buildings, all of which are enriched with carving and
pleasantly surrounded by groves of trees, among which
are the pilgrims' rest-houses.
Mandalay is as rich in pagodas as in monastic
buildings ; many are of great beauty, though none
approach the Shwe Dagon in scale or magnificence, and
the most beautiful of all, "The Incomparable," has been
destroyed by fire, though much of its fine stone carving
remains. Of the others perhaps the most interesting
is Mindon Min's great shrine, the " Kuthodau." Here
the pagoda proper is surrounded by 729 cupolas, each
of which contains an alabaster slab upon which is
engraved a chapter of the Pali Bible, the whole being
163
Burma
■surrounded by a wall in which are two highly ornate
entrance gates of moulded plaster.
Opposite the Kuthodau is an interesting group of
pagodas and zeyats in carved wood or moulded plaster,
of widely different designs and detail of ornament, in
which Keinnaya ^ and figures of various kinds applied
as enrichments of the various moulded courses are a
very striking feature. In the centre of the group is
an ugly unfinished pile, containing a huge marble figure
of Gaudama, 25 feet in height, while behind lies
Mandalay hill, around whose base and peeping from
out its pretty woods are many others of greater or less
architectural interest.
The road round Mandalay hill is very pretty, and is
the pleasantest drive in the neighbourhood ; interesting
kyaungs and Burmese hamlets lie hid among the trees,
which give beauty to the road, and on the west side is
the racecourse, displaying in a marked degree that
shabbiness and dilapidation which characterises so much
of modern Mandalay.
All through the town are pagodas of considerable
size, and on the south, at Amarapura, is the celebrated
Arracan pagoda, one of the great shrines of Burma, to
which constant streams of pilgrims resort from all over
the country. This pagoda is built in the form of a
square tower, rising in a series of diminishing terraces,
each embellished with carved battlements with higher
finials at the corners. The whole is gilded and its
* " Keinnaya " represents the body of a woman in court dress with the
wings and legs of a bird.
164
Two Capitals
effect is very graceful, though it is so completely
hemmed in by bazaar buildings, zeyats, etc., that I
failed to find any point of view from which to paint it.
On the only occasion on which I visited it, it was
thronged with worshippers, so that I was unable to see
the brass Buddha, twelve feet in height, which occupies
the shrine. It is the custom for pilgrims to dab gold-
leaf on to the figure, which, with the exception of the
head, is now covered with gold to the depth of several
inches.
All about the pagoda precincts, and even among
those praying, were stalls displaying curios, food, or
toys ; but prettiest of all, and most fragrant in the
warm close air, were those for the sale of cut flowers,
which, however, were hardly more beautiful than the
exquisite tints and textures in which the worshippers
were clad.
This time of year (February), between reaping and
sowing, is a period when all the country people come
into the capital to worship at one or other of the most
famous shrines, and mixing with the Burmans present
were representatives of nearly every race or type to be
found in Burma. One Karen girl particularly caught
my attention : rosy-cheeked and regular in features, she
was quite the prettiest woman I had seen in the country.
Almost involuntarily I exclaimed, "Well, you are a
beauty ! " Blushing rosy red, the maid, though of
course ignorant of the words I used, took my evident
compliment in good part, and with a pretty little
" shikoh " returned her thanks.
165
Burma
Behind the pagoda were two large sacred tanks,
filled with what was at one time water, but which
is now literally green slime and alive with turtles.
I found the bazaar people calling to them and feeding
them with sweetmeats, no doubt an "act of merit,"
so I also spent a few annas in a basket of rice cakes to
do the same. Whether it was that the turtles were
overfed, or, which is extremely probable, found it diffi-
cult to make their way quickly through the thick and
greasy element in which they lived, I do not know,
but the hawks, which literally swarmed about the place,
nearly always succeeded in picking up the savoury
morsel before a turtle could reach it.
Many incidents added to the picturesqueness of the
temple enclosure : groups of musicians with their quaint
instruments, here a reciter of poetry, or again a sooth-
sayer telling the fortune of a credulous client ; but the
heat and the flies and the smell from the tanks put
a period to one's enjoyment of even such a brightly
picturesque scene as this.
It constantly struck me as curious that a Burmese
crowd, always light-hearted and happy, is never more
so than when participating in some religious function.
No matter how solemn the occasion, the spirit of
carnival would seem to dominate all other feelings. I
noticed this particularly on the occasion of a " hpungyi-
byan," which, with great good fortune, took place
during my residence in Mandalay.
A hpungyi-byan, which being interpreted means,
"the burning or cremating of a hpungyi," is a cere-
i66
A ZEYAT MANDALAY
Two Capitals
mony of such rare occurrence that even a senior
Government official, who came with me on that occasion,
had never before witnessed one.
For a week or more certain quarters of Mandalay
had been in a state of quiet ferment in preparation for
the event. The aged priest, who had died a year pre-
viously, had been a man of some notoriety. He had
been " ringed " by Mindon Min, and was looked up
to as a cleric of great sanctity and position. So the
" venerable " was preserved in sawdust and honey till
the time arrived to do him public honour. Hence the
compound of his particular pagoda had for a week
past been turned into a fair, crowded by jolly, laugh-
ing men and women, all thoroughly intent upon
enjoying the " show," and without much thought, I
am afraid, for the departed religionist, or paying much
attention to the lesson his life was supposed to teach.
The square in which the pagoda stood was practi-
cally full of booths and large pagoda-like structures of
bamboo and coloured paper, which ran on wheels.
These cars, called "tan-yin," are often fifty feet in
height, and are covered with tinsel, flags, and streamers,
their different stories being panelled with pictures by
Burmese artists, some of which are good and all
interesting.
Each car is built by the inhabitants of a different
quarter, or neighbouring village, and to honour his
disciples the coffin of the dead hpungyi was allowed to
rest a certain time on each in turn. While the body
was in the car, its proprietors on one side and a rival
167
Burma
team on the other engaged in a tug-of-war, good luck
to their district through the coming year being the
reward of victory ; and it says a good deal for the
structure of the cars that they were not pulled to bits,
or the coffin thrown out during the struggle.
Encircling the pagoda were two large dragons com-
posed of a framework of wood covered with carpets
(offerings to the monastery), the heads, which faced each
other, being composed of paper and tinsel, well modelled
and very fierce, while away to the rear ornate tails of
the same material stood defiantly erect.
Alternating with the cars, and overflowing into
neighbouring streets and compounds, were temporary
zeyats for the hpungyis attending the ceremony, where
for a week they reclined on carpets, receiving the offer-
ings of the devout, and generally enjoying a thoroughly
lazy time, most of which apparently was spent in chew-
ing betel. The offerings presented were of a most
incongruous nature, including brass bedsteads, clocks,
spittoons, and betel-boxes, and among others I noticed
were two marble statuettes, one being a Greek god, the
other Napoleon the Great I
Next to the funeral pyre, over which a lofty canopy
of bamboo and paper had been erected, was a long
booth occupied by the younger hpungyis and novices,
and just before the cremation I witnessed a distribution
of gifts to them. Each one received a pillow, a wash
basin, a spittoon (as big as a small bucket), a fan, a
lamp, a betel-box, and a religous book. A curious
combination, but one which, I understand, embraces all
1 68
EN PROMENADE
Two Capitals
their supposed temporal requirements. Each class of
articles was the gift of a separate donor, one giving all
the fans, another the pillows, etc.
Wandering about enjoying the sights were wild
Shans clad in sheepskins and heavy woollen clothing,
Chinese, Hindus, and a variety of other types ; pro-
cessions of boys, some quite naked, dancing and sing-
ing to the accompaniment of gongs or pipes, and
women of all ranks arrayed in their best, but, alas,
their sometimes pretty faces often disfigured with
" thanakka," ^ while Indian native police were present
to keep order in a crowd far too good-natured to mis-
behave themselves.
Refreshments were obtainable in sundry cooking
shops and stalls, and amusement provided in the form
of " pwes " for the elders, and games and a " merry-go-
round " for the children. The latter was very primi-
tive, but amusing. I gave the proprietor half a rupee,
and told him to give all the children a ride. It was
laughable to watch the bystanders, policemen included,
catching hold of the youngsters and throwing them
nolens volens on to the revolving "whirligig." I do
not know how far half a rupee was supposed to go,
but all the children in the district seemed to have their
turn.
Among the other games was one called " than-
kwin-pyit." This consisted of a long board, covered
^ Thanakka is the bark of a tree, ground to a paste and perfumed,
which Burmese women apply to their faces in order to lighten their com-
plexion ; the result, however, for from adding to their beauty, is very often
extremely repellent.
169 22
Burma
with cloth, on which were fixed at intervals coins of
different values. For two pies a boy (or girl) would
get half a dozen brass rings, which, from a certain dis-
tance, were thrown on to the board, and if successful in
encircling a coin without touching it, he or she would
be paid one of the same value by the proprietor. In
this way is the Burmese youth taught to gamble !
I noticed, by the way, that all the coins of higher value
were fixed quite on the edge of the board, where it was
almost impossible to obtain a winner ! Sometimes this
same game is played with knives, spoons, and other
articles substituted for the coins.
As is common in all such festivals in Burma, the
procession of cars includes grotesque animals of large
size ; one of these I noticed was a white elephant, con-
siderably over life-size, into which, through a hole in
the belly, a man crawled, and with cords caused the
trunk to rear, the ears flap, and the tail wag in a most
ridiculously realistic manner.
So much for the environments, but to describe the
crowd is quite beyond me. Every one was in holiday
garb, and I have never before seen so much beauty of
texture and colour together as here. A flower garden
may suggest the colours, but to these were added the
gleam of brown skins, smooth and lovely to look at,
hair of the blackest, beautifully dressed, and in the case
of the women always adorned with a flower ; all of
whom, with their quaint walk and pretty gestures, to say
nothing of their merry laugh and good-humoured
badinage, combined in forming one of the most cheerful
170
7 A. A
THE ROAD TO MANDALAY
* Two Capitals
and breezily jolly scenes imaginable, and a very anti-
thesis to what might have been expected on such an
occasion.
The cremation was announced for 9 a.m., but it was
after mid-day before the striking of gongs proclaimed
the formation of the procession, which, after marching
round the square, approached the pyre. It was really
a remarkable sight. The coffin, which was gilt, was
carried on the shoulders of four men and attended by
six hpungyis, each bearing a large silk umbrella fringed
with gold. Following came the leading hpungyis and
residents in a long procession which was swallowed up
in a surging mass of people, pressing forward to salute
the priest, or snatch a relic from the pyre.
This was the climax, and, had I known it, the time
to leave, as all picturesqueness ceased with the placing
of the coffin on the wood. The coffin was broken open
with a hatchet, and, after the embalming material had
been raked out, turned upside down and the body
unceremoniously rolled out upon the logs, then, after
it had been covered with sticks, kerosene oil was
poured over the whole and set alight.^
The moment the flames took hold upon the body
the resulting odour was too awftil for words ! Every
one fled, and for half a mile or more, as I drove
^ Usually the pyre is fired by rockets which run on a guide of canes.
These are supplied by the people of the different quarters, in the same
manner as the " tan-yin," large wagers being made as to whose rocket
shall first set the pile alight. In the instance I have described, however,
rockets were not used on account of the confined area in which the
ceremony took place.
171
Burma
hurriedly away, was an accompanying stream of
Burmans, each with his handkerchief held to his face,
escaping from this pestilence which floated heavily on
the heated air.
In strange contrast with this modern capital of
Burma, with all its gaiety and life, is the silent ruined
city of Pagan, whose once glorious epoch reached its
zenith at the time of the Norman Conquest of England.
Richest in archaeological remains, and most interesting of
all the old towns in Burma, Pagan, though on the river
bank, is the most difl'icult for tourists to see, the landing-
place of Nyaung-u being some miles away from the
ancient city, any investigation of which is impossible
without at least a brief residence in the neighbour-
hood.
There is a good dak bungalow here, perched on a
hill which commands an extensive view of the modern
village and the remains of the ancient city, which cover
an area of sixteen square miles.
Here again I was fortunate in finding friends to
look after me, Mr. Macfarlane, the police commandant,
most hospitably putting me up in his bungalow, while
Mr. Dunn, Assistant Commissioner, also did everything
possible to facilitate my work.
Thanks to the good offices of my friends, the
" myook " or native magistrate placed his fine travelling
bullock-gharry at my disposal, so that by starting early
with provisions and materials for my work, I was able
to put in a very full day, until sunset brought an
escort of mounted police and a pony for myself for
172
OLD PAGAN
Two Capitals
the homeward journey, a matter of two hours by
bullock-gharry, as against half an hour on pony-back.
Passing through the village my daily ride to Pagan
was very interesting. The road, hardly defined, is a
dusty track crossing a country parched and barren,
producing little else but thorns and cactus or desert
scrub, and even the little cultivated patches which lie
among this desolation only serve to emphasise the
poverty of the land.
These cacti which fringe the road and climb among
the temples are of many varieties, widely fantastic in
their growth, and their fresh green tinged with the
red of bursting flower-buds ; thorns and groves of
toddy-palms vary the vegetation, and at intervals along
the road groups of tamarind-trees give protection to the
little rest-houses, whose' shade is gratefully sought by
many weary pedestrians.
In all directions are pagodas, some still covered with
plaster, but more generally of rich terra-cotta brick-
work, which harmonises well with the general colour of
their surroundings. Enveloping all is a white heat,
which makes the vibrating sky appear as cast-iron and
the road a gleam of white. Oh, the heat and the
dust and the intolerable glare in which, day after day, I
had to work ! Yet this very discomfort only added
to the romantic picturesqueness which environed this
ancient city, dead for nearly a thousand years ! The
people and their habitations have long since disappeared,
and all that now remains are the twelve hundred or
more temples in various stages of ruin, while in place
173
Burma
of its once large population are the few priests who
occupy the kyaungs, and the six thousand poor villagers
of Nyaung-u.
Buddhism was introduced into Pagan early in the
eleventh century by Indian refugees from Thaton, and
one readily recognises the influence of Indian art upon
its temples, most of which have been erected between
that era and the end of the thirteenth century. In
general these are square-built structures in the form
of two or three diminishing terraces, their facades being
panelled by low relief pilasters with scroll ornaments
over doors and windows, the whole being surmounted
by a small cupola. Several, however, are more elegant
in form, notably the Ananda temple, whose elongated
stupa and innumerable pinnacles give it an airiness and
grace wanting in many of the others. Here the Indian
influence is marked, though in many of its ornamental
features as well as in the surrounding zeyats and
kyaungs the Burmese character predominates. In the
neighbouring That-pin-yu temple the Indian character
is even more pronounced, though built a century later.
Both of these are massive buildings, the Ananda being
200 feet square and 168 feet high, while the That-pin-
yu is 185 feet square and 201 feet high, both these
temples dating from the middle of the eleventh century.
The Sula-muni temple, however, built in the thirteenth
century and now very ruinous, covers a considerably
larger area than either.
There are a great many other temples of various
dates, the architecture of which is decidedly Indian in
174
THE ANANDA TEMPLE PAGAN
Two Capitals
character, though the beautiful Shwe Zigon is purely
Burman, as also is the little Bu pagoda which, built
right down to the water's edge, is said to be the oldest
in the country.
Unlike the "zedi," which is in almost all cases an
entirely solid structure, most of the temples in Pagan
have interior chambers, where, still reposing in their
niches, figures of Gaudama remain in placid contempla-
tion of the crumbling walls about them.
Structurally many of these buildings are good. The
pointed arch is a common feature both in vaults and
doorways, and in many cases, where the first arch is
low pitched, others of increasingly acute angles are
superimposed to take off the great weight of the
upper masonry, for, except for a long corridor and
image chamber, most of these huge piles are solid, the
staircases leading to the upper terraces, if any, being
usually on the outside of the structure. Originally, as
in the case of the Ananda, covered with white- washed
stucco, time has long since stripped the greater number
of this outer coating, exposing brickwork of a peculiarly
rich red, in which is revealed an interesting chapter on
structural methods.
While most of the temples and theins are entirely
ruinous, several are still in excellent repair, and are
the resort of pilgrims. Among these is the Ananda,
whose huge mass is pierced by lofty corridors, lighted
by windows, and to which access is gained by passages
leading from four porticoes which face the cardinal
points. In each corridor is a large chamber, curiously
175
Burma
lit from above, containing colossal upright figures thirty-
feet in height (not too well carved in wood, and gilded),
which represent the four Buddhas of the present cycle.
Round these corridors are many smaller niches, also
containing Buddhas and other images.
Severely simple in its architecture, the eiFect of
these silent corridors and their commanding effigies is
impressive to a degree, and it is difficult to realise that
these figures have occupied the same positions unchanged
throughout the long centuries which practically repre-
sent the history of England !
Outside ornamentation is profuse, one feature
being a string-course of panels running round the
plinth, composed of plaster and coloured green, in
which are figures in low relief representing allegorical
and historical subjects ; while in an adjoining chamber
the ceiling and walls are profusely decorated with
frescoes in fine preservation, depicting principally the
various tortures of the Buddhist hell. Inside and out
the temple is white-washed, which adds to its feeling
of airy grace, especially when seen from a distance or
under the spell of moonlight.
It would be quite impossible for me to mention
even a small proportion of the interesting remains
which cover the plain. Over a thousand temples have
been identified, many dating from the ninth century,
and there are probably as many more too ruinous to
be recognisable. Indeed, so great is their number that
"as the pagodas in Pagan" has become a native
equivalent for " innumerable."
176
PLATFORM OF THE SHWE ZIGON PAGODA PAGAN
- — r^r
Two Capitals
One other pagoda, however, claims attention, and
that is the beautiful Shwe Zigon. Situated on the
river bank, and built upon a slight eminence, its
golden dome is a very commanding object in the
landscape. It is approached from the village by a
gradually ascending path, paved and enclosed between
walls of white stucco. From the south-west is another
approach from the road, probably a quarter of a mile
in length, and much more distinctive. The entrance
is guarded by griffins, and the dromos which is rather
winding, is bounded by red-brick walls well built with
panels «and cornice. At short intervals it is broken by
square pilasters, surmounted by griffins and gaudamas
alternately ; all are built of brick from which the
original stucco has disappeared, but it forms a striking
approach to a striking monument.
On the platform are the numerous " tis," votive
bowls and sacred trees which stand about the shrines
and decorated kyaungs, while the plinth of the zedi is
gilded like the dome and enriched by panels of green
on which are slightly relieved figure-subjects, such as
we have noticed in the Ananda. The picture which
faces this page will perhaps give a better idea of the
temple precincts than any written description ; the
dome, however, does not appear in my drawing, but is
of the graceful zedi form, boldly moulded and heavily
gilded.
Altogether I was fascinated by the picturesqueness
of the place, though strongly impressed with its sense
of desolation. I asked a native one day how it was
Burma
that Pagan had once so many kyaungs and temples
and who could have maintained them, the place being
now so poor ? He replied that they were built long
ago, when Pagan was rich and the residence of a king.
The king's name was Naw-yat-ta-min-zan, into whose
service there entered a hpungyi called Iza-gawna, who
had the power of turning iron and lead into gold, and
the people in consequence became rich, and had built
all these monuments. On the conquest of Pagan by
Lower Burma, however, both wealth and population
disappeared. The hpungyi died eventually, but, as my
informant remarked, " his life is not dead, and people
still pray at his pagoda."
178
A BUDDHA NEAR PAGAN
CHAPTER X
SOME OTHER TOWNS
Nyaung-u is a pretty village lying among toddy-palms
and tamarinds, and though its narrow roads are usually
a cloud of dust from passing gharries it has many
attractions ; the men are very civil, the women shy
but infinitely graceful and attractive in manner, while
pretty children run about naked as they play with the
dogs and goats.
This is a great centre for the manufacture of red
and black lacquer work, quite the best in Burma being
produced here. As, however, the chance of direct
sale is limited to the wants of occasional steamboat
passengers, the people are almost entirely dependent
upon the dealers, who evidently do not treat them too
liberally. In fact they are desperately poor, and, I
am told, cannot even indulge in a full meal of rice, but
are obliged to mix millet with it in order to eke out
the meal. Yet in spite of this poverty, and many
fruitless tramps over miles of dusty road to await the
arrival of a steamer, only perhaps to be disappointed
of a sale, they are a cheerful community, who try to
beautify their lives and their surroundings.
179
Burma
The houses are, as usual, built largely of bamboo,
the matting, of which the walls are composed, being
plaited in bold designs, of two or three colours. In
front of many are stands of flowers in pots of various
kinds, some plain earthenware, others glazed in bright
colours. The plants are usually lilies, which, though
generally dusty, gleam brightly in the sunlight against
the dark background of the gloomy interiors. Sur-
rounding the house is often trellis-work supporting
bougainvillea, wisteria, and other flowering creepers,
and the footpaths, such as they are, are often shaded
by vines.
Except for the shops in which lacquer work^ is
displayed there is not much colour in the articles for
sale, food-stuflFs and utensils being the principal items ;
but on the other hand incidents are plentiful, and, like
their more prosperous brethren in more favoured spots,
the people are brightly clothed, nor do the women
neglect to place a flower in their hair.
' The method of lacquer manufacture is interesting. I think I am
correct in saying that the ornament or utensil to be lacquered is invariably
made of plaited bamboo or other fibre, this foundation of basket work
being in itself pretty and ingeniously shaped, and combining strength with
elasticity. The whole surface is coated with a resinous varnish, which when
dry is rubbed down to a uniformly smooth surface, on a revolving table or
lathe. On this black surface is then drawn the design which is to form
its decoration, this being done in enamel of whatever colour is to appear,
and is laid on with a fine pen or brush, the lines standing up crisp and
even above the surface like the wiring of cloisonne work. The whole is
then thickly coated with red enamel, and allowed to harden, after which it
is again reduced in the lathe until the wearing away of the red coating
eventually exposes the lines of the design, and a final varnish completes the
process.
1 80
o or three colours. In
IN NYAUNG-U
FW'^'^
Some Other Towns
I was very much attracted by the people here, and
one day asked the myook if he could procure me two
pretty girls as models for a picture which I had in hand.
Next day they arrived, and were quite the ugliest girls
I had seen in Burma ; so do our ideas of beauty vary !
However, as they wore very beautiful clothes, and
were neat little things, I was quite pleased to paint
them. As models, however, they were hopeless, for
the moment they were posed and I began to paint,
all their native grace fled and they became rigid as
automata. I was hopeless until it occurred to me to
pose them together^ and while pretending to paint one
(who immediately became petrified), I was in reality
painting ^the other, who, thinking I was not looking at
her, assumed naturally beautiful positions !
Being the daughters of a merchant in the town they
were far too high class to accept money, so I gave them
each a bundle of cigars and took their photographs as
a reward.
A dramatic episode terminated my visit to Pagan.
Macfarlane had gone on a tour of inspection, leaving
me in sole occupation of his bungalow. Sitting on the
verandah after dinner I noticed a fire in the distance,
glowing among the palm - trees, and, welcoming any
variety in the monotony of a lonely evening, I strolled
down to the village to see what was happening.
During my ten minutes' walk to the seat of the fire,
which was evidently extending, I met hurrying groups
of excited people carrying away their beds and furniture
to the river bank for safety, and as I neared the spot
i8i
Burma
1 found it was evidently a big blaze. Though terribly
sorry for the suiFerers, I have never seen anything finer
as a display, ten or twelve houses being alight, the
blaze shining on gilded pagodas and through the dark
palm groves, while the heat was such that I could not
approach without screening my face with my hands.
The fire was spreading quickly, and seemed likely to
burn the whole place down ; and the flames, leaping
across the street or dropping like molten metal from
the eaves, spread in all directions. No one appeared
to be doing anything, the police contenting themselves
with patrolling the place with bayonets fixed. I felt
really indignant at the apathy displayed, and through
an interpreter I got some men together and started to
grapple with the situation. The fire was progressing
at the rate of a house every five minutes, so, telling the
people to remove their belongings, we began to de-
molish the houses some little way down the street as
an interceptor. No one seemed to dispute my authority,
and it was almost amusing the way in which the crowd
seemed to enjoy the demolition of another's property !
Meanwhile palms and other trees had caught fire,
and the flames threatened the handsome group of
pagodas and kyaungs which was the pride of the
village. Fortunately the wind changed before they
were seriously endangered, and the demolished buildings
effectually arrested the progress of flames in the other
direction, but not before twenty-five homes had been
completely destroyed. It was certainly a great cata-
strophe, though the people took it for the most part
182
STREET IN NYAUNG-U
&JS».-=.Mtl'»4:JJ,
Some Other Towns
with apathetic indifference. One poor woman alone
became quite crazy and stood, crying and shouting,
until she was almost caught by the fire, before some
one dragged her away from her burning domicile.
I was much amused by one man who was comfort-
ably seated on his doorstep smoking a cheroot, and
entirely indifferent to the excitement which surrounded
him. His house, however, was one which had to be
sacrificed, and his disgusted expression, as we began to
pull the place down and his neighbours to remove his
goods, was truly comical. It was not so much anger
or distress at the destruction of his home, but simple
annoyance at being so rudely disturbed in the enjoy-
ment of his smoke !
Many of the women were engaged in bringing
water from the river, which they did in small chatties,
strolling quietly to and from the scene of the fire, then
waiting, chattering, until it would occur to somebody
to take the pot from off their head and pour the water
on the flames ! An absolutely futile operation, but it
kept them occupied and out of the way.
I was engaged in this way until after midnight, and
in spite of my sympathy with the sufferers hugely
enjoyed the fillip of this exciting experience. I had
certain doubts, however, as to the legality of my action
in ordering the destruction of so much property, but
was relieved to find afterwards that Mr. Dunn, the
local representative of authority, had been engaged in
precisely similar operations on the other side of the
conflagration.
183
Burma
The following morning before leaving I visited the
scene of the fire, where, over an acre or more of still
smoking timbers and hot ashes, strewn with innumer-
able water-pots and cooking utensils apparently none
the worse for their firing, roamed dozens of these
homeless people searching among the debris for lost
treasures. No one, I heard, was burnt, and those whose
homes had been destroyed had all been accommodated
by their neighbours, and even before 1 had left, life
was again going on as happily and placidly as if nothing
had occurred.
If my departure from Nyaung-u had been marked
by disaster, my return to Prome was ushered in with
festivities, for on arrival I discovered my host, Mr.
Litchfield, assisted by several young ladies, busily
engaged in transforming his usually severe drawing-
office into a ball-room ! Naturally I was pressed into
the service, and an unlimited supply of palms, bam-
boos, lanterns, and trophies being available, the result
of our combined efforts was distinctly successful. The
greatest triumph, however, was the decoration of the
large tent which served as a supper-room, which was
entirely the work of the ladies ; and, a piano having
at considerable trouble been procured from Rangoon,
everything appeared to be in perfect readiness for
the event.
With the arrival of the guests, however, arose a
problem. The whole social circle of Prome numbered
less than thirty, and the question as to who should
supply the music became acute. None of the men
184
LANDING-GHAUT AT PROME LOW RIVER
Some Other Towns
could play, and the ladies were too few to be spared,
and a fiasco threatened ! Happily our host, among
other provision for our amusement, had obtained a
gramophone and an ample supply of records, so that,
instead of the piano, the musical programme was
furnished by waltzes and quadrilles as rendered by
the best military bands of Europe, and the dance
was a huge success.
Under such pleasant circumstances was I introduced
to Prome society, and even if its circle was a limited
one, its amenities suffered not one whit through lack
of numbers ; and in many ways Prome stands out
prominent in all the virtues which are embraced in
the single term " hospitality."
Here was a nice little club, built on the river bank,
well finished and well managed, a billiard - room for
the men, and for the ladies the best room in the house,
admission to which was not denied ourselves. Indeed
one of the most charming features of club life in
Burma is this universal provision for the wants of the
ladies, whose comfort and need of amusement are as
carefully considered as those of the men, and it need
hardly be added how greatly their presence adds to the
social attraction of the club itself.
Built out into the water was a stage on which we
would sit and watch the after-glow spread behind the
opposite hills, pretty by day, but in the twilight full
of romance, as their bases, lost in gloom, merged in
the deep reflections of the silent river. These pleasant
evenings constantly recur to my mind, when, after
185 24
Burma
the great heat of the day, we would enjoy the cool of
the evening, and witness the slow transition from the
strongly opposed light and shade of sunset to the
silvery effulgence of the moon.
Prome is a picturesque town of considerable size,
having a population of some 30,000 people, and it
appeared to me to be one of the best built in the
country. The streets are wide, well laid and wooded ;
and the houses, which are frequently of two stories,
are large and more solidly constructed than in the
majority of Burmese country towns. Pagodas of
various styles and ages are frequent, and its local
life is interesting.
Though the offensive ngapi is perhaps its principal
trade, it has been famous for the manufacture of gold
lacquer, which, though ornate and handsome, does not
please me as much as the more simple black-and-red
work of Pagan. It has a handsome church, and the
bungalows of residents and officials are comfortable
and surrounded by pretty gardens. But it is insanitary
to a degree, and cannot well be healthy in its present
condition. In the middle of the town are tanks,
stagnant and covered with water plants, hidden below
which lie the usual sacred fish or turtles. Beside the
poorer roads, and crossed by wooden bridges which
give access to the houses, are open drains, often
without any fall whatever, and forming pools on which
the children sail their little toy boats or paddle at their
brinks. Consequently Prome is unhealthy, and I was
not surprised to hear that fever was a constant visitant.
186
AT THE WELL
?\.f«iVar.X«Hn.
Some Other Towns
I escaped fever, but had my first experience of prickly-
heat, and of the two I think I prefer the fever. How-
ever, I had not much time to consider ailments, with
so many interesting scenes to occupy my attention.
Every street corner was a picture ; picturesque houses
buried in handsome trees, below which were the pumps
and fountains surrounded by pretty groups of children
or their elders ; here a primitive ropewalk on wheels ;
there a lad kite -flying, his little sister sitting beside
him wondering how it is done ; or, again, a group of
half-naked youths playing " chinlon " or other games.
Chinlon is the Burmese form of football, and is the
national game. The name means "round basket,"
and the " chinlon " is really a ball of about six inches
in diameter formed of plaited rattans. The game is
played by several youths or men who stand in a circle
a few feet apart, and the ball having been thrown into
play, the one nearest to whom it falls kicks it up into
the air with the instep, knee, or side of the foot, the
effort being to keep it in the air as long as possible, and
without losing possession of the ball. A fancy stroke
is to turn right round as the ball falls and kick it with
the sole of the foot, though the elbows, head, or any
part of the body except hands and toes may be used.
While playing no one leaves his place, but waits until
the ball falls within his reach, when he in turn en-
deavours to retain its possession. This is a very pretty
game to watch, and the skill of the performers is often
surprising.
The great interest of Prome, however, is centred
187
Burma
in its pagoda, the Shwe'-Tsan-Daw, one of the largest
in Lower Burma, and in many respects even more
beautiful than the Shwe Dagon itself.
The pagoda stands on a hillock 138 feet in height,
and overlooks the river. As usual it is approached by
four covered stairways of brick, guarded by large
leogryphs of stucco, behind which rise the carved roofs
of the ascent. At the entrance a large notice-board
bears this inscription in English and Burmese, " No
one permitted to wear shoes in this pagoda but
Englishmen and Asiatic Europeans," an example of
baboo English which recalls another where, in a peti-
tion, the writer picturesquely describes himself as " a
man without a head (employer), and whose belly is fed
with debts " !
The ascent, which is as usual frequented by blind
musicians and other mendicants and forms a bazaar,
terminates in a gallery surmounted by a handsome
pyathat, beneath which are placed many large Buddhas,
coloured and gilded, all in the usual attitude of medita-
tion. Passing through this, the platform is reached,
which, though relatively small in area, is more than
usually rich in carved zeyats and gilded shrines. In
the centre the great dome itself, 180 feet in height and
particularly graceful in form, rises from a square base
of many moulded courses, each corner of which is
crowned by a lesser pagoda or cupola. Running
round the plinth, but joined together so as to form a
continuous wall, are eighty- three carved and gilded
niches, each containing a figure of Buddha, and each
PRAYER ON THE PAGODA PLATFORM PROME
Some Other Towns
surmounted by a cupola of different design. The
whole mass is gilt and enclosed in an ornamental
railing of metallic green ; while from the summit of the
great zedi, and from every lesser pinnacle, bells and
cymbals swing and tinkle merrily from the golden
" tis " which crown them. The effect is gorgeous, and
as no shrines have been built on to the pagoda itself,
its whole beautiful symmetry and proportion may be
properly appreciated.
On the outer edge of this platform are a large
number of zeyats and shrines, among which are in-
numerable bells which hang between their coloured
uprights, "tis" of silk or gilded metal and "ta-gun-
daing," whose streamers float softly in the breeze.
Many of the details of ornament are very fine, the
perforated carvings of the eaves or cornices are ex-
ceptionally delicate, as are the screens of carved teak
which arch the spaces between the supporting columns
of the roofs. Glass mosaic and tile -work in bright
colours form panels in the shrines, or encase pillars
which are otherwise painted or overlaid with gold.
The whole scheme of colour is a sumptuous play of
vermilion and gold, with an occasional accent of vivid
green or smoke-blackened altar as a foil.
In and about all this beauty of ornament were the
figures of the people, while numbers of squirrels chased
and gambolled among its pinnacles and spires. I
made no attempt to paint what I have described, it
was too hopelessly bewildering ; but, searching out the
simplest of its corners, I was fain to content myself
189
Burma
with the less ornate beauty of such " bits " as the one
I reproduce.
From the edge ot the platform are splendid views
in all directions, that across the Irrawaddy valley being
the most striking ; while all around, and climbing the
little hill upon which the pagoda stands, trees of various
growths effectually separate it from the busy town
below, as though jealously safeguarding the jewelled
temple they surround.
Of another kind is the town of Thayetmyo.^ Once
a frontier town and a military station of great im-
portance, Thayetmyo has fallen upon evil days, and in
place of a former large establishment its present garrison
consists of but half a battalion of British troops, and
two native regiments. Everywhere are signs of decay ;
large barracks and military lines are deserted and falling
into disrepair, and for want of tenants, officers' quarters
and handsome bungalows are allowed to go to ruin.
The town, however, has many attractions in its
shady avenues, wooded tanks, and charming environs ;
and the people, with characteristic cheerfulness, decline
to be despondent, and would convey to the casual
observer the idea that they are still an important and
prosperous community ! Certainly the bazaars are
large and well attended, the country and river trade
probably being as extensive as formerly. Many of
the shops are extremely good, and most of the stores
used in my first jungle trip were purchased here.
Some of the tradesmen appear to be enterprising, and
* " Mango City."
190
EVENING AT THAYETMYO
Some Other Towns
over one shop I read the sign, " E. Cheap Jack & Co.,"
which struck me as being quite up-to-date. But, all
said and done, Thayetmyo is a place of the past, and
its silent fort, grass -grown and gunless, speaks elo-
quently of its fall from high estate.
In and about the town are many pretty roads, some
wide and grassy, and often the scene of gorgeous
religious pageants ; others are narrow and winding,
overhung with trees and creepers which effectually
conceal the native huts, and having the appearance of
country lanes. Strolling up one of these lanes one after-
noon I came upon an open space, in which a football
match was in progress between a team of the Border
Regiment and one composed entirely of Burmans. I
joined the large crowd assembled to witness the match,
and was struck by the energy with which the Burmans,
who played barefooted, entered into the game, upon
which of course the crowd was betting freely.
Close beside the dak bungalow, shaded by mango-
trees, is an interesting group of pagodas, one of which
is a particularly fine example of plaster-work ; the river
banks also furnished many a good subject for a painter,
and I wish I could have spent a longer time here. As
it was, I thoroughly enjoyed my short time at Thayetmyo
as the guest of Captain Moffat and the mess of the
King's Own Scottish Borderers ; nor will I soon forget
the charming entertainment and Christmas tree given
by the officers to the children of the station, in which
I had the pleasure of participating.
Though in their general features one Burmese town
191
Burma
is much like another, I cannot leave this subject
without a reference to Bhamo, which differs essentially
from any other I have visited.
Far away in the north and close to the frontier of
China, its characteristics are more Chinese than Burman,
the bazaar, in which is a most interesting joss-house,
being almost entirely so. The population, however, is
of a very mixed character, as I had an early opportunity
of judging.
I had just arrived at the fort, where I was the guest
of Major and Mrs. Bernard, and with them I attended
the garrison sports, which were given that afternoon
on the parade ground. It was a most interesting sight,
and every event was keenly contested. There were
tent-pegging for the troopers, tugs-of-war and obstacle
races for the regiments, and indescribably funny flat
races in which the competitors were of all ages and
nationalities, from senior Non - Coms. of native
regiments to wonderfully clad Indian servants or
half-naked Chinese children. Earnest rivalry on the
part of the competitors was blended with hilarious
good - humour among the cosmopolitan crowd of
onlookers, which embraced every race I have mentioned
in this volume, and probably many more besides.
In view of its hybrid character one would hardly
expect to find much of purely Burman interest here,
though several monuments are noteworthy, notably
the bell-shaped stupa of the pagoda in my picture,
which was the only one of its kind I saw in Burma,
and is probably unique. For the rest Burmese and
192
BHAMO FROM THE FORT
^
"*-
i
I
Some Other Towns
Chinese jostle and intermix, each partaking a little of
the character of the other.
It is in its surroundings that Bhamo is most
interesting. The midan, where I witnessed a polo
match, is fifteen feet under water in the rains, and
instead of equestrian sports, fishermen in dug-outs drag
their nets with profit.
To the north is a pretty ride by wooded lanes and
through a picturesque Assamese village to the Taiping
River, on whose bank are the remains of the ancient
Shan city of Tsan-pan-ago, of which, however, little
now remains but interesting ruins of moated walls and
pagodas well worth exploring, and which, as is always
the case in Burma, nature has beautified with an
envelopment of trees and flowering shrubs.
Most interesting of all, however, is the " road to
China " — a broad highway cut through virgin forest to-
the frontier, bordered by forest trees and jungle, and
along which pass numerous caravans of Chinese bound
for Bhamo : strange wild folk, and strangely clad, who
wear a curious woven yoke or collar, which, with a.
rope across the forehead, enables them to support the
surprising loads they carry.
We drove a considerable distance along this road,,
and I was charmed with its alternation of lofty trees
and pretty clearings, in which were farmsteads strongly
reminiscent of home. Miles away from Bhamo we
found a little booth by the roadside where, among
other creature comforts, were sold American " Railway
Cigarettes " and Japanese safety matches, while all
193 25
Burma
round were thickets infested by tiger and leopard. I
was told of one tiger, a confirmed man-eater, whose lair
was here, which had adopted the habit of watching the
caravans pass and picking off the last man, whose
companions in front were often quite unaware of what
was happening. Finally his depredations became so
numerous that a hunt was organised and he was
eventually shot.
On our return home by way of the "circular road,"
also cut through the jungle encircling the town, when
passing a certain point. Major Bernard called in his
dogs, which had been running alongside, and took them
into the cart beside us, telling me that it was not an
uncommon occurrence for pets to be snapped up by
lurking tigers or panthers just thereabouts. This,
however, was the general, if not the only, drive available
for the ladies and children of the garrison !
194
IN THE BAZAAR BHAMO
ia
CHAPTER XI
A MONTH ON THE LASHIO LINE
"Well, I have seen your line, and I call it sheer
impertinence ! " was the comment of a fair American
upon that section of the Burma railways which con-
nects Mandalay with Lashio, a village on the borders
of China, and situated in the extreme north-east corner
of the Northern Shan States.
Through the courtesy of the agent, Captain Kincaid>
R.E., who most kindly placed an inspection car at my
disposal for the purpose, I was afforded the opportunity
of making intimate acquaintance with the section^
which, by repeated surmounting of almost insuperable
engineering difficulties, would seem to justify the
opinion I have quoted.
My stores of provisions, fuel, etc., having been put
on board, I joined the car overnight, sleeping in the
station in readiness for an early start, my car being
attached to the train timed to leave at 6 a.m., and just
as the sun rose behind the Shan hills on the east we
steamed out of the station.
It was a lovely morning, the mists lying on the
195
Burma
plain and hiding the base of the hills, whose tops stood
out sharp and clear against the sunrise. On the west
the pinnacles and domes of Amarapura were softly
white among the foliage, and here at last I was able
for the first time to obtain a real impression of
the Arracan pagoda, whose gilded mass, broken by-
innumerable pinnacles, gleamed softly through the sun-
suffused haze in which the waning moon was setting.
Turning sharply to the left, the line headed for the
hills, running through fertile fields broken by winding
rivulets and groups of trees, the whole swathed in a
mantle of haze which slowly succumbed to the growing
power of the sun.
At Tonbo we stopped to attach another engine
before attacking the almost perpendicular hill-side
which at Sedaw seemed to effectually bar our farther
progress. Here the stationmaster came to ask me if I
had any objection to being detached from the train and
remaining until a goods train in the evening could take
me on. Asking the reason, I was told that the engines
could only carry a certain weight up the steep gradient,
and that my car made the train just one coach too heavy.
As I had given ample notice at Mandalay, and I was not
sure that the same difficulty would not arise with the
succeeding train, I insisted on going on, and only upon
restarting found that, in order to oblige me, a whole
carriage full of third-class passengers had been detached
and shunted into a siding. I was very sorry for this,
but as my time was valuable I felt I could not reproach
myself too much, and I do not doubt that the unlucky
196
A Month on the Lashio Line
Burmans left behind had a sufficiency of light-hearted-
ness and philosophy with which to face the situation !
Any sense of meanness vanished as we slowly
climbed the precipitous hill in the early morning light,
the scene being one I would not have missed to oblige
a hundred natives ! It was one of the things I had
come to see, and I saw it and was glad !
By a series of reversing stations, up gradients of
I in 25, we slowly zigzagged up the face of the
mountain, while below the broad plain of Ava rose
slowly into the sky, a sea of paddy land and jungle
which disappeared into blue distance, and at our feet,
far below, lay the little station we had left. Along the
foot hills wound a sluggish stream, and through the
distant haze peeped the pink tops of the Sagaing hills.
Mounting still higher, Mandalay hill appeared above
an intervening spur of the mountain whose broad
shadow stretched half a mile across the plain, while like
a silver ribbon the Irrawaddy gleamed through the
mist which still obscured the horizon.
Reaching the crest, the line wound along a ridge
bordered by deep valleys filled with trees, glorious in
autumn tints which ranged from the crimson and
scarlet of the dhak and cotton-tree to the pale yellow
of the bamboo.
Still ascending through an indaing forest, we
presently reached a high plateau covered with jungle,
in which were a few cultivated patches ; this again was
succeeded by another rise, clothed with forest, through
which ran sparkling streams which scored the mountain
197
Burma
sides, exposing rocks and boulders overhung with
creepers, among which the clear water danced and leapt
in a succession of waterfalls. As elsewhere in Burma,
the vegetation was luxuriant, but, owing to the eleva-
tion, of a slightly diiFerent character from what I have
described elsewhere. Tall grasses, like pampas grass,
alternated with lilies ten feet high, and among other
flowering shrubs was one much like a pomegranate,
while the kidney -leaved bauhinia, whose blossoms
resemble the pelargonium, hung in clusters above
the trailing convolvulus. Among the trees also were
many new growths, including the wild plum, and at
intervals clumps of papaya marked the place where at
one time the nomadic Shans had made a home.
It had been my intention to stop at Maymu, 3600
feet above sea-level, and the Simla of Burma. From
the station, however, the little town with its trim
bungalows and military lines seemed to offer so little
pictorial inducement that I decided to push on to the
Goekteik gorge, one of the principal objectives of my
journey.
Passing many pretty villages, such as Hsum-Hsai,
and little hamlets and pagodas half hidden among
the bamboo clumps, we again wound our way uphill
and downhill through gorgeous mountain and forest
scenery, until, reaching a summit of 3000 feet of
elevation, a quick run downhill over a winding track
brought us to the Goekteik, where at 2.30 p.m. my car
was detached from the train and run into a siding.
Generally the line had been closely girt by jungle
198
oms
THE GOEKTEIK GORGE
A Month on the Lashio Line
and forest ; my little siding, however, could not have
been more fortunately placed, as here the land fell away
in front of me to the ravine below, so giving me an
almost uninterrupted view of the splendid panorama
before me.
Right and left stretched a winding valley, a mile or
more in width, surrounded by high hills clad to their
crests with vegetation. Behind me on the hill -side
hung the little station, while from my feet the sloping
ground, covered with jungle of many growths, swept
gently to the edge of a ravine which cleft the valley to
a depth of several hundred feet. Through this ravine
flowed a rapid river, which at one point entered a
natural tunnel which pierced a barrier of rock 400
feet in height. On the farther side high bluffs of
limestone, strongly marked by streaks of red and
yellow, rose precipitously from the river, perhaps to
the height of 1000 feet or so, they in turn being
capped by tree-clad downs.
This point presented the greatest engineering
problem in the construction of the line, which is here
carried by a graceful trestle bridge across the valley
and gorge to the bluffs beyond, where, by a series of
tunnels and tortuous windings along the hill-sides, it
eventually reaches the summit of the downs, many
hundred feet above the level of the bridge itself.
It is not easy by description to convey an adequate
idea of the difficulties surmounted in carrying out the
work, and though figures do not usually form attractive
reading, I am tempted to use them here.
199
Burma
The abutments and foundations for the trestles were
prepared by the Railway Company, an American firm
of engineers being charged with the erection of the
bridge itself, whose total length of 2260 feet is carried
on fifteen lattice-work trestles. The highest of these
trestles is 320 feet, and rests upon the natural bridge of
rock which spans the Chungzoun River, 825 feet below
rail-level. In its construction about 4300 tons of iron
and steel were used, including over 1,000,000 rivets,
its entire cost being about ;^i 13,200. The cost of
painting alone is enormous, being about ;^8oo, and the
surface painted 401,500 square feet.
These figures will give some little idea of the magni-
tude of the work, which, though carried on in the wildest
surroundings of mountain and forest, and notwith-
standing the fact that every pound of metal used in its
construction had to be shipped from New York, was
completed in the incredibly short time of nine months.^
Turning from the material to the pictorial, the
scenery was splendid, especially when at sunset the
warm light glowed upon the rocky projections of the
valley, and the creeping shadows lent an additional depth
of colour to the rich vegetation. From the comfortable
and well-built rest-house erected by the Railway
Company a pathway led through the dense jungle to
the edge of the ravine, where a zigzag path cut in the
face of the rock descended to the river bed itself.
1 The general design of the bridge is the work of Sir A. M. Rendel & Co.
of London, the detail plans and construction being carried out by the
Pennsylvania Steel Company.
200
A Month on the Lashio Line
This pathway is very beautiful. Heavily shaded
by forest trees, in which squirrels and lemurs play, a
pleasant green tone softens the light falling upon grey
stone or tree-trunks ; from every projection as well as
from the boughs hang trailing plants, and ferns and
flowers spring from the crevices of rocks whose rugged
contours are softened by mosses and brightly coloured
lichens.
At every point of vantage seats have been placed,
from which are views of extreme loveliness, and every
turn in the path reveals some new charm of colour or
effect. As the lower level is reached the air is cold
and damp, and the dripping rocks are covered with
clinging plants whose names I know not, while huge
lily leaves mix with the lighter foliage which partly
screens the river from view. It is a series of pictures
of almost unnatural beauty, which finds a strong note
of contrast in the dark-mouthed and sombre cavern in
which the river loses itself.
From the shingle bed of the river the scene is very
impressive. Almost perpendicular cliffs surround you
as the eye slowly mounts to the point from which, far
beyond the ordinary angle of vision, the delicate tracery
of the viaduct rises high into the air without offending.
Truly the Goekteik gorge is an amazing sight tempt-
ing to the use of superlatives, and one which no visitor
to Mandalay should fail to see.
Here I naturally settled down to work, though with
little hope of realising the half of its bewildering beauty.
Months rather than days might be spent upon any one
201 26
Burma
of its charming pictures, but the artist on tour must be
content if happily he accomplishes even a semblance to
the spirit of the scene which enthrals him.
Night fell early in the dark ravine, and the toilsome
ascent of twenty minutes to my camp, 900 feet above,
was through deepening gloom, and frequently under
the escort of panthers, which in twos and threes hovered
round me. On reaching the station I would find my
boy busy cooking dinner on a wood fire built beside
the line, and no matter where I was, he somehow
always managed to prepare a dainty meal, for which he
never failed to write a " menu." ^ Here is the facsimile
of one of these : —
DiNNR.
Browen sup. Roast mutton.
Fish cod roes. Sweetbread.
Mutton pancaek. Cabnet puding.
Brisciut baick.
As it was my home during the expedition, a descrip-
tion of the car may be of interest. In size it was about
the same as an ordinary coach, the half being fitted up
as a combined sitting and bed room. The bed was
roomy and comfortable, and the several easy chairs it
contained left ample room for dining table and seats.
All round the walls were cupboards and lockers, so
that everything in use might be easily stowed away,
and electric light and fans added luxury to comfort.
* Among other dishes, my servant on several occasions gave me boiled
bamboo shoots, which, though slightly astringent, were palatable and a
welcome substitute for vegetable food.
202
sar must b'.'
toilsome
THE BOTTOM OF GOEKTEIK GORGE
A Month on the Lashio Line
The supply of electricity was generated " en route "
and stored in batteries capable of maintaining a week's
supply, and should, as occasionally happened, a pro-
longed stay at any point exhaust the reserves, a run of
lOO miles attached to any passing train was sufficient
replenishment. Adjoining the saloon was a roomy
bathroom and lavatory ; beyond were the servants' room,
kitchen, and store-room. In reality it was a comfortable
maisonnette on wheels, and as the end of the saloon
had windows, I always arranged to be attached to the
rear of the train, so that I could sit comfortably in
a chair and enjoy the whole sweep of the landscape
uninterruptedly. Only one thing I missed, which was
a fire. The nights were very cold, and I frequently
found ice on the puddles in the morning, but during
the day the heat was often great. I was not careful,
I am afraid, to note temperatures very accurately, but
I find these figures in my notes for the 4th of
February : — 8 a.m., 38° F. ; noon, 82° ; 6 p.m., 64°,
these of course being taken indoors.
The morning fogs were very heavy, covering the
highest hills, and were damp and bitterly cold, and I
found it necessary to take a brisk walk along the
line to set my circulation going until at about 9 a.m.
the wind and sun finally dissipated the fog. Its
effect as it slowly melted was interesting, little
glimpses of rock and trees appearing in patches, some-
times lit by a gleam of sunlight in wonderful contrast
to the even greyness of the mist ; and I remember one
curious illusion of a man, seemingly headless, walking
203
Burma
towards me, the colour of his turban being the same
as that of the fog, in which it could not be noticed.
The railway line here forms the only high road, and
is freely used by the Shans, whose quaint costume and
enormous grass hats lent interest to the landscape.
I found these Shans very quiet, intelligent people, and
I was frequently surrounded by them when painting.
While at work one day upon a study of a ficus-encircled
eng-tree two women stopped to look at what I was
doing. " He is painting that tree," said one, point-
ing to the tree before me. " No," replied the other,
" it is that one with the creeper on it," which was
correct (as of course I was seated sideways to my
subject), and the old woman had compared my sketch
with the surroundings. I felt pleased to think that
when all these trees are so similar I had caught the
character of this particular one in a way which appealed
to the intelligence of a native utterly ignorant of art.
I regretted very much that I was unable to speak
to the natives, whose quiet demeanour and respectful-
ness appealed to me, and though my servant understood
Burmese, the Shan dialect proved a difficulty to him.
That they are nice in their nature I think the following
will show. A girl, the sister of the stationmaster's
wife, every day climbed down the steep declivity to
the river, returning almost immediately. I asked her
what she found to attract her so much down there, and
she explained that in the cavern grew a beautiful white
flower, a water-plant, which she gathered daily in order
to decorate the little station-house. These Shan girls,
204
JUNGLE ON THE LASHIO LINE
A Month on the Lashio Line
by the way, are often very pretty, and have really rosy
cheeks, and, except for their costume, might often pass
for English rustics.
From Goekteik to Hsipaw, my next headquarters,
the journey was much as I have already described, and
as we mounted higher into the heart of the Shan hills
the country seemed to expand itself into an immense
sea of tree-clad undulations. The exuberance of the
vegetation is extraordinary ; every inch of ground
supports some form of growth, each elbowing the other
for space in which to reach the light and air. Should
a tree die, a dozen creepers fight for its possession,
while its topmost branches are crowned with orchids.
In many places are clearings, where, in made terraces
flooded with irrigation water, Shans and Shan-tiloks^
are planting paddy, their little hamlets being almost
lost to sight amidst the vegetation, from which at times
rises a long bamboo flagstaff erected as a " tagundaing "
to mark a holy place. Cart roads and gharries are
almost unknown in this district, but in their place large
herds of pack ponies browse upon the hill-sides, or,
heavily laden, wind their devious way through the forest.
Such in general character was the country in which
1 was working, a rich succession of forest land inter-
spersed with pastoral incident, fascinating in the
extreme, but diflScult of description. To me, however,
this was a period of extreme loneliness, which the very
superabundance of natural beauty only served to
intensify. This was especially the case when, my day's
^ Half Shans, half Chinese.
205
Burma
work over, the mellow afterglow suffused the hushed
landscape with its mysterious light, and all nature
seemed to be looking westward, as though desiring
to follow the sun in its course, a longing my heart
often echoed in a feeling of intense home-sickness.
My arrival at Hsipaw was a welcome break in the
somewhat solitary nature of my existence, and as trains
from this point to Lashio only run on alternate days,
I thoroughly enjoyed the relative activity of its life
during the day and a night spent there. Very pleasant
too was the unexpected meeting with Messrs. Sterne
and Kindersley, who were returning to Rangoon after
a visit to the Great Eastern Mines, two days' journey
to the north, and of which I will have more to say
later.
While we were enjoying our dinner, sounds of
music reached us from the station, followed by a
personal invitation from the stationmaster to honour
a function with our presence. It appeared that
among the other passengers waiting to proceed was a
strolling company of Indian Nautch players and dancers,
who were giving a performance in that portion of the
station buildings reserved for third-class passengers.
This consisted of a large roofed compound enclosed
by an iron railing, which on our arrival we found to be
packed by an appreciative native audience. From the
roof all available lanterns had been hung and the floor
covered with clean white sand, the centre forming a
ring for the performers, into which the three easy chairs
placed for ourselves somewhat intruded.
206
A Month on the Lashio Line
We were received with acclamation, more especially
from the performers, who no doubt anticipated " back-
sheesh," and then the entertainment proceeded. 1 had
not before witnessed an Indian Nautch, and was more
pleased with the performance than 1 had expected.
The music, in which tom-toms figured largely, was
really pretty, and I should think capable of English
notation. The dancing girls, handsome and richly
dressed, performed well, the dance being graceful and
accompanied by a song of strange fascination. One by
one the dancers relieved each other, continuing the
same song which consisted of one motif, rhythmic and
flowing with a decided melody, but which was never
resolved, repeating itself interminably. The words of
the song were, as usual, immoral, but I could not help
feeling how beautiful a " fantasia " might have been
constructed from it by a capable musician.
Next morning at 7.30 I left for Lashio, the scenery
differing entirely from what I had already passed
through. For its entire length the line followed the
windings of the Myit-nge or " Little River," a stream
abounding in falls and rapids, above which rose forest-
clad mountains of from 2000 to 3000 feet in height.
Though to all appearance a likely place for fish, I learned
that during the construction of the line the river near
Hsipaw had been so persistently " dynamited " by the
work-people that the fish had deserted these waters,
and had never returned. Higher up the stream, how-
ever, the large number of otters frequenting its waters,
and the presence of fishing weirs at every hamlet on
207
Burma
its banks, would seem to show that the river is still
well stocked in places.
These fishing weirs are interesting, and are usually
of two kinds. In level stretches of the river the weir,
composed of bamboo wicker, is built in the form of a
large oval, having at each end a narrow entrance through
which the fish enter, and which, becoming confused, they
are unable to find again. Where falls occur, however,
the inside edge of the ledge of rock is fenced from
bank to bank, and the fish, unable to pass the obstruction,
lie in the slack water behind, and are picked up by hand
or basket. In many cases I noticed that in the centre
was built a raised staging, shaded by a thatched roof,
beneath which sat the fisherman, who, spider-like,
watched the line of fencing on either side ready to
pounce upon the fish the moment they struck the
barricade.
In several places, close beside the line, were
precipitous crags of limestone, covered with trees and
literally alive with monkeys, which, however, were by
no means common in the more open country ; new
growths also appeared in the shape of the areca-nut
palm, purple wisteria, crimson daisies, and a flower
which I took to be the familiar " love lies bleeding."
Birds abounded, including bulbul, jay, and peacock,
and near Lashio I saw many nests of the weaver bird.
At Lashio I had a rather amusing experience.
Provisions had run low, and being badly in need of
chickens, eggs, and butter, I sent my servant into the
village to make the necessary purchases. He returned
208
THE HOME OF THE PEACOCK
to
the
■'7
new
A Month on the Lashio Line
saying that the " stupid Shans " would sell him nothing,
as they knew it was for the " sahib " who would kill
the chickens ! Food had to be obtained somehow, so I
appealed to the stationmaster, who rather impolitely
declined to assist me.^ Finally invoking the aid of a
stalwart native policeman, he and my boy went on a
foraging expedition and simply stole what was required.
This was the first time in which I had ever compounded
a felony, but I felt justified in this case, more par-
ticularly when later the outraged owners, who came
clamouring round my car, retired well pleased with the
perhaps over-liberal compensation paid them.
For some reason the railway stops short of Lashio
and the Chinese frontier by some miles, and though
no doubt the Government has some sufficient reason
for prohibiting its farther extension, it seemed to me
that the completion of the section could not fail to be
commercially advantageous. A large trade is already
carried on with China — pickled tea, onions, ginger,
and other commodities being brought in, in exchange
for Burmese and British products ; but the trade is
hampered by the obligation on the people of carrying
their goods upon their backs, often for long distances,
before the railway is struck. These straggling lines of
figures, curiously attired and armed, added much to the
picturesqueness of local life, but I could not but feel
* In all fairness I must add that this was the only case of incivility I ever
experienced at the hands of any of the railway servants, who were invariably
most attentive, and, particularly in the case of Mr. Millar, stationmaster
at May-mu, put themselves to considerable trouble in order to make my
journey comfortable.
209 27
Burma
that here was the foundation of a trade capable of
rapid development, but which we were doing little to
encourage.
The immediate vicinity of Lashio offered no special
pictorial attraction, and I therefore returned to Man-
pwe, whose grand succession of waterfalls shares with
the Goekteik gorge the honours of the line for magnifi-
cence of scenic effect.
Here for many miles the river is broken by
innumerable cascades, which at a point some five miles
below the station culminate in a series of fifteen falls,
ranging in height from 50 to 120 feet, by which, in
single leaps over terraces of yellow rock, the river
drops many hundreds of feet in level. Between the
falls are deep pools, whose vividly green water gleams
transparent as an emerald amongst the forest trees now
in their autumn foliage. The coloration is splendid,
and the whole effect of the scene impressive to a
degree. From no point are all these falls visible at
the same time, but with great judgment the Railway
Company has built a dak bungalow in a position to
command a view of what is perhaps the finest group of
all, and ladders and paths cut in the precipitous rock
face lead to otherwise inaccessible points from which
nearer views of individual falls are obtainable.
Though completed structurally, the bungalow was
not ready to receive visitors while I was there, and
as no siding was available for mv car it remained at
the station, trolleys pushed by Indian coolies being pro-
vided by the Company to take me to and from my work.
210
FALL ON THE MYIT-NGE RIVER
A Month on the Lashio Line
These trolley rides in the early morning were most
exhilarating. The line descends in steep gradients of
I in 40 to I in 25, winding in and out of the spurs
of the mountains in abrupt curves round which we
swung at a speed which almost took one's breath away.
Indeed the pace was at times almost alarming, and had
the trolley jumped the rails at any point, or the brakes
refused to act when required, the consequences would
have been unpleasant to contemplate. As it was, the
daily journey of five miles was covered in little over a
quarter of an hour, and fortunately without mishap.
In contrast with this brief period of excitement, the
rest of the day was spent alone, amid surroundings the
grandeur of which gradually overcame its mere beauty
and often became oppressive.
It is difficult in a sketch to convey any real idea
of the scale of a scene in which everything from the
forest trees to the falls themselves was proportionally
large, but, as hour after hour, and day after day I
worked here, I seemed momentarily to become more
insignificant as the bigness of it all possessed me ; and,
in spite of the glorious light and colour which might
well have induced a spirit of cheerfulness, for the
second time during this journey I felt utterly and
painfully alone.
There is always, I think, a peculiar impressiveness, a
sense of majesty and power in rushing water, and these
magnificent falls, thundering as they fell, overawed me
more than others I have seen of greater height and
volume. This was particularly the case when, climbing
211
Burma
along the rugged paths in the rocks, I would stand
almost spellbound below the cliff over which the river
poured splendidly into the deep pool at my feet, again
to vanish into space over the edge of a succeeding
abyss. The perpetual noise of running water also has
a numbing effect upon the brain, especially when, as
here, it is with you daily to the exclusion of all other
sounds ; and it was with a sense of extreme relief that
at sunset, the tension of work released, I would return
slowly and toilsomely to camp.
Pushing the trolley uphill was hard work for my
coolies, and in contrast with the quick run down to the
falls, the return journey often occupied an hour and a
half, so that when possible I arranged to pick up a
ballast train, then filled with engineers and workmen
returning from their work some distance down the
valley.
The permanent way of the line requires constant
watching, for owing to its heavy gradients, the usual
*' creep " of a line in the direction of its traffic is here
exaggerated to an unusual degree, and instead of the
proper interval always left between rails to allow for
expansion, the downward slide of metals and sleepers
causes them to impinge closely, which if allowed to
continue beyond a certain point would result in a
" buckling " of the rails and inevitable disaster to any
passing train. The I.P.W. of this section therefore
has a busy time, and is constantly employed in inspect-
ing and reballasting the line, which is kept in wonderful
order, and even round the sharpest curves the rolling
212
A Month on the Lashio Line
stock travels smoothly. The navvies employed are
largely Indian, and I was interested in watching them
at work. Two men whom I noticed were engaged in
packing up the sleepers by hoeing in the metalling and
ramming it underneath them with a long-handled hoe ;
with great ingenuity labour was divided between them,
one exerting all his energy in a sharp backward haul
upon the handle, while his "mate," squatting upon
the ground, controlled its effect by guiding the blade
with his hands. The ballasting material, which was
quarried beside the line, was carried in baskets by large
gangs of native girls, who as usual proved able and
efficient.
Perhaps on account of the din of the cataracts there
appeared to be few birds in the woods impinging on
the river, and so far as I observed, little life of any
kind in the neighbourhood of the falls. Every day,
however, in going to and from my work I had occasion
to pass through a steep cutting in the laterite ; it was
only a few yards, but here, protected from the breeze
and revelling in the warm sunshine, were literally
swarms of butterflies big and little, of sober as well as
brilliant colouring, hovering and dancing over nothing
so far as I could see, but in evident delight in the
short life which was theirs. I have frequently mentioned
butterflies in these pages, and they have always uncon-
sciously attracted me, but never before had I seen them
in such numbers and varieties as here. I could have
caught many beautiful specimens, but had not the heart
to do so. Clad in beautiful apparel, happy and careless,
213
Burma
and entirely outside the cares of this work-a-day world,
they almost appeared to me to symbolise the spirit of a
people designed by nature to reflect the happy munifi-
cence of the sunlit land they dwelt in.
Covering the face of the rocks which bound the
river were many ferns and mosses, and amongst others
a climbing plant, half fern half moss, which threw out
feelers from its fronds and roots, its foliage lying flat
upon the surface. Maidenhair ferns were plentiful,
and a great number of small flowers hid among the
broken rocks which lay scattered through the jungle.
Bamboo was as usual plentiful, and in the thicker wood
I saw lemurs and peacocks and occasionally a bird of para-
dise. The jungle in parts was very dense and it was
difl'icult at times to reach the river-side, and in order to
obtain one of my subjects here I was obliged to cut a
path for several hundred yards before I could reach my
point of view. The result, however, amply repaid the
labour, as it proved to be quite the finest of a series of
splendid views.
Here a number of falls, higher than any of the
others, fell into a semicircular basin in which a perpetual
rainbow shone, and then shooting half transparent over
a sloping ledge of rock, joined waters with the green
pool which is seen in the middle distance of the picture
I reproduce. The colour of the water was curious,
evidently dyed green by vegetable matter, yet perfectly
clear, and its range of tint as modified by its varying
depths, through which the yellow rock shone, or when
broken by cast shadows or reflections, was very beautiful,
214
the man-pwe falls from the railway
company's bungalow
A Month on the Lashio Line
though as I soon discovered very difficult to realise
pictorially. Whatever the cause might be, here as
elsewhere in Burma, 1 found great difficulty in getting
enough colour on to my sheet. Either the intensity
of light or some quality of the atmosphere seemed to
impoverish the pigment used, and what at the time of
application appeared full and juicy and of sufficient
depth of tone, too often seemed to vanish as it dried,
necessitating partial repainting. All through my time
in Burma this proved to be a constant addition to the
many impediments which hampered work.
The lesser growths of the jungle in this district
were very prolific, creepers particularly abounding as
well as many small plants of succulent habit. Every
evening as the temperature fell, the air was pervaded
by a heavy scent, rather like the smell of hot bread
from a baker's oven, but sweeter, which I eventually
traced to the fermenting seed-pods of the convolvulus.
Whether this was the cause, or only coincidence, I
cannot say, but I found that whenever this smell
occurred I was more or less subject to attacks of fever,
and the scent had a very nauseating effect upon me.
As a matter of fact, this district is a very feverish one,
and though perfecdy safe to visit for a short time, I
found that constant working among more or less de-
caying vegetable matter told seriously upon my health,
and I was seldom without some degree of fever which
liberal doses of quinine proved powerless to prevent.
Probably owing to its elevation and general moisture,
forest fires do not appear to occur here, and the con-
215
Burma
sequent accumulation of decaying undergrowth is no
doubt the cause.
Orchids are of course numerous, and the little
station-house was festooned with them, though they
were not in flower at the time of my visit.
Close behind the station was a pretty stretch of the
river, falling in gentle rapids of a few feet and studded
with woody islets. Here otters abounded, and the
inspector of permanent way shot one through the
water, so that, stunned, he was able to catch it. It was
a fine dog of about 20 lbs., and for a few days was
kept in a kennel. At night, however, its own cries,
echoed by a number of others which surrounded its
cage, became such a nuisance that it had to be liberated.
Though the Man-pwe falls and the gorge at
Goekteik are unquestionably the great features of this
most interesting railway, the whole of its length is of
extreme picturesqueness, in which the scattered native
life adds human interest to forest scenery of great
richness.
In the occasional clearings the crops, raised on
stages above the moist earth, dry in a sun which
bleaches the straw to the same whiteness as the
weathered tree -trunks. Through forest glades are
glimpses of rivulets spanned by quaint native bridges.
Along woodland paths, or trudging beside the line, are
Shans tattooed round the waist and legs, and in the
centre of the chest, carrying on their backs their
bedding and such utensils as their basket-work pocket
may contain. Others bear bales of merchandise for
216
A Month on the Lashio Line
some distant market, or in baskets suspended from
bamboo poles carry their " household gods," and
occasionally their infant children. All are armed with
a " dah " hung over the left shoulder by a scarlet cord
and tassel, often beautifully made weapons and sheathed
between two well-shaped pieces of bamboo or wild
plum, bound together with vine tendrils or finely
plaited fibre. These are some of the incidents which
give variety to the " road," and at the stations the
clanging of the piece of railway rail which serves the
purpose of a bell, assembles on the platform all the
mixed types and nationalities which characterise the
Northern Shan States, curious to witness the infrequent
arrival and departure of a train.
217 28
CHAPTER XII
CAMPING IN THE NORTHERN SHAN STATES
Having accepted an invitation from Mr. Kindersley
to pay a visit to the Great Eastern Mines, I left my
luxurious car at Hsipaw, and, accompanied by Mr.
E. A. Sulman, the mines manager, on the morning of
the 1 2th of February started upon the fatiguing ride
over the mountain ranges to the north.
Everything was enveloped in a damp fog as,
mounted on rugged little ponies, we left the station
and commenced the ascent of the hills over which our
road lay. The ground was steeply undulating, and
the indaing forest which covered it was practically bare
of leaves and offered no protection from the sun, which,
fiercely hot, presently poured upon our backs and the
dusty road we traversed.
With the exception of the palms and a few ever-
greens, the forest trees of Burma are deciduous, and
particularly in the dry zone and at this period, the
green umbrage of spring gives place to sun-bleached
boughs and trunks and an undergrowth of parched
and withered shrubs.
2X8
Camping in the Northern Shan States
Lying in and about their roots are drifts of forest
debris, which, dry as tinder, crackle under foot as you
pass. The trees above are skeletons, and excepting
in the deep valleys where subterranean drip preserves
some vestige of greenery, the forest might be dead.
This is the season of forest fires, which in the economy
of nature no doubt serve a useful purpose, but against
which the forest officer wages constant war in his efforts
to protect the teak and other economic trees from
injury. This is done by cutting wide " lanes " through
the forests in which they grow as " interceptors " to
the farther progress of the flames, and so far as 1 have
learned this precaution is usually efficacious.
In the district through which I was travelling, how-
ever, " protected " trees are few, and no European
official is here to interfere with the administration of
his state by the Sawbwa of Hsipaw, the native
prince, and nature is left to the solution of its own
problems.
How these fires originate is uncertain. In many
cases no doubt they arise through the carelessness of
nomadic parties in neglecting to extinguish their camp
fires ; but I am told that they are generally spontaneous,
and it has been suggested that a probable cause is the
rubbing together of the silica-coated bamboo stems as
they sway in the breeze.
Whatever their cause may be, and however dis-
astrous their effect, there is no gainsaying the fact that
these fires are picturesque to a degree. At night
especially they are a beautiful sight, and I have often
219
Burma
watched their sinuous lines slowly ascend the sloping
hills, alternately bright with flame, or dully red as they
burn themselves out. On a still night the roar and
crackle of the fire may be heard to a great distance, and
the whole effect is weirdly picturesque. By day the
fire is less apparent, sunlight enveloping the flames,
only the silvery smoke wreathing through the valleys
and the blackened track it leaves behind showing the
existence of a conflagration.
On this ride to the mines, however, I was to make
their nearer acquaintance. In various directions fires
were burning, and our track often led through stretches
of burnt-out undergrowth and blackened tree-trunks
still hot and smouldering.
Unlike the prairie fires of the West, these conflagra-
tions travel slowly and do not engender the same fear
for life and property as elsewhere, so that when we
suddenly found our farther progress threatened by
fires which raged on either side of our path, we only
experienced a momentary hesitation before proceeding.
As it turned out, however, the fire was of greater extent
than we had imagined, and we soon found our narrow
track closely hemmed in by jungle now fully alight,
and our retreat cut off behind us. Unable to stay
where we were, nothing was to be done but push on
at our best speed. Fortunately the path was well
defined, and as there was no wind it was not crossed
by the flames, so that provided we were not headed off
in front the danger appeared to be slight. For two
hours we rode through flame and smoke, which singed
220
FERRY ON THE NAN-TU RIVER
Camping in the Northern Shan States
the hair on our ponies' legs and choked us with its
heat. Deer and sine broke from the thickets as the
flames caught them, birds wheeled screaming over
nests in which their young were being consumed,
themselves presently to fall asphyxiated into the flames.
Swarms of insects fell from the trees to earth, and what
was the fate of the squirrels, snakes, and tree frogs
admitted of little doubt.
Presently a serious danger threatened us, as forest
trees, burned through at their base, fell crashing into
the blazing undergrowth, so adding fresh fuel to the
flames which, leaping upward amidst a shower of
sparks, soon enveloped their dry crests in a sheet of
fire. Had any of these trees fallen across our path
the situation would have been serious, but as it was
fortune favoured us, and an exciting episode ended
happily on our reaching a rivulet which limited the
area of devastation, and in whose cool water we were
glad to bathe our scorched feet as we lay among the
reeds which fringed it.
Viewed afterwards the eff^ect of these fires is often
curious. Many trees lying upon the ground were
burnt to a white ash but still retained their form until
touched, when they crumbled into dust ; others of
harder texture remained practically intact, except that
the softer core had been entirely burnt out, leaving the
trunk a fire-hardened cylinder, and it is a common
practice among the Burmans to hollow logs in this way
for use as water pipes or pumps. Blackened and
destitute of life, a burned-out forest is a melancholy
221
Burma
sight, but a month or two later rejuvenescence begins,
and all signs of desolation are soon lost in the mass of
foliage and flowers which spring to life with the same
exuberance as before.
The vitality of plants is as extraordinary as their
luxuriance, of which I may give an instance. Lying
about the ground were many varieties of seeds, among
them being one about the size of a nutmeg, hard, and
covered with spines, several specimens of which I
picked up as curios, but afterwards mislaid. Six
months later, after my return to England, I found
in the pocket of my kit-bag one of these seeds which
showed evidence of sprouting, so, potting it, I kept it
in a warm place and carefully tended it. Nearly a year
passed without result, but, wishing to experiment
further, I repotted it in leaf mould, in doing which
I discovered that the seed had separated into three
lobes, though the sprout itself was no bigger. Con-
tinuing to water it, in August last I was rewarded by
the appearance of a small brown shoot above the soil,
which a week later had developed into a woody climber,
two feet in height, bearing large leaves like a con-
volvulus, and it is still growing rapidly ! No wonder
then that in these forests, where every condition is
favourable to growth, vegetation is prolific.
Though in many places there were bad bits, for the
greater part of our way a well-made road eased off many
of the difficulties of the journey, though the steepness
of the hills rendered it tiring for both man and beast.
The scenery was very fine, high hills alternating with
222
Camping in the Northern Shan States
stretches of flat land, cultivated in patches, and through
which ran shady rivulets.
Many spots of extreme beauty recall themselves to
my mind. At one place we rested our ponies under a
huge banyan-tree, which from one central trunk spread
its enormous limbs over an area of close upon an acre.
Beneath it was a rest-house where we lunched, and^ in
its deepest shade a little shrine and zeyat for pilgrims.
Here also, the ground being open, I was able to measure
a cotton-tree, the height of which I found to be 125 feet,
though this was small in comparison with many I had
noticed in the denser forests.
Another spot I remember with pleasure was the little
village of Man-sam. The road being well defined I had
ridden ahead of my companions, and eventually reached
a point which my pony refused to pass, but, breaking
sharply to the right, carried me to the village where I
was soon lost among the narrow causeways which wound
among its well-stocked gardens. Presently I emerged
upon a knoll crowned by an interesting group of kyaungs
and pagodas, from which I obtained a magnificent view
across immense stretches of hills and forest to distant
mountains far away in China. This was quite one of
the finest panoramas I had seen, for a view of which I
had to thank the obstinacy of my pony ; an obstinacy,
however, which proved to be justified, as, on " harking
back," I found I should have taken a path which broke
oflF at right angles to the left of the road at the point
where we had our disagreement.
High woodlands alternated with deep valleys, green
223
Burma
and cool, in which the creepers were perhaps more fan-
tastic, and the growth of ferns and fungi more prolific
than I had seen hitherto. Many of the trees also were
strangely formed, growing in curious elbows and abrupt
bends difficult to account for, but which gave this portion
of the forest a character all its own.
Presently, debouching upon a strip of well-cultivated
lowland, we reached Ta-ti, a village built upon the banks
of the Nan-tu river, which, rising somewhere in China,
eventually joins waters with the Myit-nge at Hsipaw.
Here we rested in a little tai while tiffin was prepared
in a cooking-hut adjoining. The scene was very pretty.
Emerging in a broad sweep from between mountains
which reach altitudes of 6000 and 7000 feet,^ the river,
here 1 50 yards wide, ran swiftly between wooded banks,
its sparkling blue telling strongly among the sunlit
foliage. Natives passed to and fro in dug-outs or
were engaged in fishing at the head of the rapids below.
Women came and went, some to bathe, others to fetch
water in buckets made out of a section of bamboo, and
at the water's edge " dobies " plied their trade. Around
us grouped the head men of the village, kindly souls
solicitous for our comfort, and on the shelving bank at
our feet, the pack -mules relieved of their burdens,
rolled in the dust. These pack -mules are sorry-
looking beasts, small and shaggy, but hardy and sure-
footed, and they will carry their loads of 140 lbs. for
long distances and over any kind of ground.
Here we had to cross the river, and collecting their
^ The highest point in this district is, I believe, 7579 feet above sea-level.
224
Camping in the Northern Shan States
scattered pack by a shrill call rather like that of i
peacock, our Shan drivers swam the mules and ponies
across, ourselves and baggage being ferried over in
canoes, when loading up we restarted on our ride.
The method of loading pack animals is interesting.
The baggage, usually carried in boxes or " pahs," ^ or
wrapped in canvas coverings, is tightly lashed on tO"
"cradles" of wood shaped like an inverted V, which
when loaded are lifted bodily and placed across a wooden
saddle firmly girthed over a pad of cloth or fibre.
The lashings consist of leather thongs many yards in
length, and the natives are good packers, and have x
wonderful knack of equalising weights so that a balance
is obtained. They have a curious craze, however, for
excessively tight binding, and I often feared for the safety
of many " breakables " in my pahs, and almost invari-
ably was obliged to ease off the thongs considerably.
This method of loading has many advantages. The
centre of gravity is low, and the pack being loose is
easily lifted off when halted ; and, as often happens in a
"jam, " or after collision with rocks or tree-trunks, the
load tumbles off the back of any fallen animal and it is
able to regain its feet unassisted.
I will not enlarge upon the scenery, which differed
little in essentials from what I have already described.
The rarity of animal life, however, was marked. I saw
few birds, and even insect life was not particularly
noticeable, and nowhere could I see traces of big game.
Once or twice we were followed overhead by troops of
1 Two baskets of matting — one fitting over the other as a cover.
225 29
Burma
monkeys, large brown fellows with long tails, who
chattered and screamed at us from the boughs, and here
also I saw a new variety of snake, which I have not
been able to identify. We were riding through a
cutting in the sand when I noticed the snake descend-
ing a smooth and almost perpendicular tree -trunk,
with its body perfectly straight, and without any
visible undulations. It wriggled slightly in crossing
the path in front of me, but again skimmed up the
surface of the steep cutting, apparently without any
lateral motion. The snake was a pretty one, and I
should think about four feet or more in length ; slender
and coloured brown, with longitudinal stripes of green,
in which were spots of red at intervals of a few inches.
From the shape of the head I judged it to be harmless,
but as it instantly disappeared among the undergrowth
I had no opportunity of examining it more closely.
I need not describe our camp at Pang-long, where,
pitched on a pleasant greensward, our small " double-
fly " tent shared with an ancient pagoda the shade of
a group of spreading mango-trees. Our next halt,
however, furnished an episode. This was at a Chinese
settlement called Myoung- young, which boasted a
rather large bazaar. In riding through it our atten-
tion was caught by the familiar red label of " Bass's
Pale Ale," stuck over a shop door. Hot and thirsty,
we determined to investigate, and dismounting, Sulman
interrogated the proprietor. Burmese and Hindustani
being alike foreign to him, Sulman pointed to the
label, saying, " John, have you got any of that } " With
226
MINING CAMP AT "THE RAPIDS
Camping in the Northern Shan States
a beautiful smile " John " in turn pointed to a shelf on
which reposed, cobwebby and dusty, four quart bottles.
We each secured a bottle, at the price of Rs.2 a-
piece, and returning to camp, knocked the heads ofF
the bottles, and enjoyed the unaccustomed luxury of a
glass of beer as we had never in our lives done before !
Our road had been generally parallel to the river
but separated from it by a range of high hills. On
the evening of the second day a sharp turn and steep
descent brought us to the river at a point called " The
Rapids," where the headquarters of the mine had been
established. In response to Sulman's revolver shots
we were soon put across by a rope ferry, and a final
climb up a steep hill brought us to our destination, the
still incompleted bungalow which combined office and
home for Sulman, and Park, the mines engineer.
The distance we had covered in the two days was only
forty miles, but I confess to having been more completely
done up by this ride than either the mileage or the nature
of the ground would seem to justify. The following
morning and for some days after, fever had me for its
own, and for the first time I was unable to work, but
lay stretched upon a cane chair enjoying the view from
the bungalow, and also Barrie's delightful Little White-
Bird, which with great luck I discovered in a packing-
box among a lot of waste paper.
The immediate neighbourhood of " The Rapids "
was interesting. Below ran the Nan-tu, impetuous
and broken, and here joined by the Sterne river, a
mountain stream which rose not far above the mines
227
Burma
I had come to see. On the shingle bed below, and
stretching some distance up the valley, was the mining
camp, or, more correctly speaking, village of bamboo
huts, its heterogeneous population being engaged in
felling timber in the forest, or constructing the railway
line by which the mines themselves were eventually
to be reached.
A year before this had been an uninhabited waste,
which even the birds and monkeys seemed to shun.
Now the population of the village was, roughly, looo,
composed of Indian coolies, Shans, Kachins, Yunnanese,
Chinese, and Burmans, all perhaps bad specimens of
their race, but here apparently living on good terms
with each other, and all submitting to the quiet
domination of two young Englishmen. Indeed, I was
•strongly impressed by the combination of pluck and
good-humour with which Messrs. Sulman and Park
maintained discipline, and exacted honest work from
this motley crowd of more or less lawless men and
women, over whom they had no legal authority, and
with whom, in many cases, they had not even a
language in common.
It was a position demanding the greatest self-control
and courage, and by no means unattended by risk.
Let me give a specific instance. The Chinese New
Year's Day had just been celebrated with the usual
firing of guns, letting off fireworks, and festivities
•generally, and as a concession to the occasion, the
inevitable gambling-house had been allowed an exten-
sion of time from lo to ii p.m. The day following
228
Camping in the Northern Shan States
the festival my hosts found the gambling-room again
open far beyond the ordinary hour of closing. With-
out a moment's hesitation, single-handed and only
carrying riding-whips, they raided the place, confiscat-
ing both money and appliances, and clearing it of its
half-drunken and fully armed habitues. Needless to
say, their lives were absolutely at the mercy of the
crowd, to whom the adjacent Chinese frontier offered
an easy asylum; but "grit" and personal force of
character accomplished more than many a fully armed
party would have risked.
This was one of those incidents which make for
pride of race, and I have among my curios the little
antique Chinese saucer used for collecting the " pice "
of the gamblers, which was among the spoils that night,
and which I treasure as a memento of the episode.
A few days later the house was allowed to open as
usual, and on the only occasion on which I visited it
it was a wildly picturesque sight, though the crowd
was for the most part orderly, and entirely respectful
to ourselves.
Among the mixed nationalities here the Chinaman
steadily gained in my estimation. All the servants in
the bungalow were Chinese, and I found that the
liking for them I had previously formed increased
upon further acquaintance. They are excellent house
servants, and as skilled mechanics are far above their
Indian neighbours. I could not help noticing the
difference between the work of two carpenters employed
in putting up the balustrading to the verandah of the
229
Burma
bungalow. The one man was an Indian, content if
the timbers fitted approximately, and relying upon
nails to complete the job. The other, a Chinaman,
would have nothing but a perfect joint, shaving and
paring till the part fitted with perfect accuracy, and in
many other ways I noticed the same care expended
upon whatever work they had in hand.
Among other people with whom I came in contact
here were the Kachins, many of whom had come into
camp. I had no opportunity of learning much about
their habits and customs, but their costumes interested
me and perhaps merit description. Most were clad
in a heavy woollen jacket and short wide trousers of
dark blue with insertions of red, the women adding a
short skirt of the same colours and material, prettily
fringed and embroidered, and hooped with rings of
white bamboo, much like a crinoline, only in this case
the hoops are outside the skirt. Their hair is tied in a
knot upon the top of the head, much like the Burmese,
and bound round by a narrow scarf of some thin
material, always brightly and variously coloured. In
some cases the hair is allowed to fall over the face to
the level of the eyebrows, the women covering theirs
by a coloured cloth folded flat upon the head. The
ears are bored, but instead of ear-rings, are often pierced
by a large cigar, or a curious silver ornament about
five inches long, shaped like a candle-snuffer, and from
the wide end of which falls a scarlet tassel. In most
cases hanging under the left arm a prettily embroidered
bag serves as a pocket ; and though none of those I saw
230
A JUNGLE STREAM
Camping in the Northern Shan States
were armed, I am told that they use bows or cross-
bows, and flat-headed spears, the shafts of which are
ornamented by coloured cloth and tassels. Altogether
they are a quaint people, strongly Mongolian in type,
though occasionally good-looking.
The thirteen-mile ride up the Sterne valley to the
mines was peculiarly interesting. The rushing little
stream winds through a tortuous and rather precipitous
valley, its waters coloured by oxide of iron, lead
sulphates, and carbonates of copper to a curious
opalescent tint, which contrasts prettily with the purer
green of the Nan-tu, into which it flows.
The steep hill-sides are densely covered. Trees of
all kinds, including rubber, rise in tiers from the water,
all more or less smothered in creepers, glorious among
which is the purple wisteria, whose flower cones, instead
of hanging pendent, stand up above its foliage like the
lupin. Large clumps of wild bananas give variety to
the stronger greens, among which are splashes of scarlet
flower and the delicate drooping leaves of the areca
palm. Drooping chains of flowering convolvulus
connect this mass of vegetation with the giant grasses,
which, often twelve to fourteen feet in height, spring
from among the fawn-coloured rocks which form the
river bed. Alternating with the trees are forests of
bamboo of many varieties, male and female, each species
growing separately in large masses without inter-
mingling with the others or losing its own individual
character. Ferns of many kinds abound, covering the
dripping rocks with greenery, and among other varieties
231
Burma
was a climbing fern which half hid the lower tree-trunks
to the height of twenty feet. The whole valley was a
garden of loveliness, in which seemed to be summed
up the vegetable glories of the country. Nothing
could exceed the beauty of it all, viewed as it was under
the varying effects of mist and sunshine, tropical down-
pour and the mellow tenderness of twilight ! Yet it
was a deadly district ; fever lurked in every mist, and
the smell of decaying vegetable matter or fermenting
seed-pods nauseated me.
The interest of the ride, however, kept me going,
as we alternately zigzagged across the rough river-bed,
scrambled through the steep cane brakes, or made
our precarious way along rocky ledges, whose height
often made me dizzy.
In contrast with the lower valley, the hills immedi-
ately around the mines were devoid of timber, all having
been cut down long ago for fuel, and our last two or
three miles was a hard climb through rough grasses and
dwarf tree-ferns over hills of considerable height and
excessive steepness. On some of the hills I found ordi-
nary bracken growing in large patches, much as at home,
but as we descended into the warmer and more humid
valleys it became rapidly larger, until at the water level
it had developed into a fern fourteen feet in height, each
frond of enormous size, and supported by a stalk black
as ebony and thicker than a stout walking-stick. Some
idea of their dimensions may be gathered from the fact
that we sheltered, mounted, under individual leaves
during a heavy thunderstorm which overtook us.
232
. ' iv; the loWCi . -.r-u i,i^^.^,
■■-:. The whole valley was a
: which seemed to be summed
ics of the CO- v-
' of ic a!' ' ' •■
ift 'txnd
leilow tenderness of tvviii^^ht ! Yet it
ever lurkc nist, :Lnd
''■!e m-;:.:- • •; i • •'■meriting
ON THE STERNE RIVER
■om the t:irt
ives
Camping in the Northern Shan States
The mines themselves lay in a gulch which wound
among the hills ; for 500 years worked by the Chinese
for silver, they have for the past fifty years been deserted,
but about the innumerable smelting furnaces which
still remain are huge mounds of slag, consisting, I am
told, of practically pure lead, which it was the intention
of the Great Eastern Mining Company to remove to
the Rapids for refining preparatory to export. To this
end Park had been engaged in building the light
railway which, by way of the valley we had just
traversed, was to connect the Rapids with the mines.
Not being a mining expert I can offer no opinion as
to the value or purity of the lead deposits, or the pos-
sibilities of the streaks of copper everywhere showing
in the rocks, but I can express appreciation of the
splendid manner in which the many and great diffi-
culties in the construction of the line were one by one
overcome.
These mines are of great extent, and at one time
had been famous throughout China, and all along the
ridges of the hills which encircle them are still visible
the earth - works and redoubts by which successive
Emperors thought it worth their while to guard them.
Along the river, spanned by quaint Chinese bridges,
are the ruined homes of many generations of miners,
whose galleries cut for immense distances through the
living rock open yawning from the valley. In one
place are a pair of leogryphs and the staircase leading
to the platform of a pagoda which has long since
disappeared, and in another was discovered a large
233 30
Burma
inscribed bell, the gift of a former Emperor to the
famous mines many long years ago. It is a mournful
place, however, whose remains savour rather of the
skeleton, and have none of those romantic memories
which usually cluster round what is old.
Our quarters for the night consisted of a range of
low mud huts roofed with corrugated iron, which,
however, proved to be quite comfortable, and as the
temperature had gone down to 40°, we ate our dinner
in the warmth of a bonfire of packing boxes and such
scrub as could be found, round which we afterwards
sat and talked till bedtime.
As I was still far from well, and in order to avoid
the excessively steep hills by which we had come, we
decided to return by the river bed.
In spite of a natural love for the horse, I am not a
believer in his " great intelligence," and I had frequent
cause in Burma to complain of the stupidity of my
mount. It is only fair to say, however, that these
Burmese ponies are wonderfully clever with their feet,
of which my ride back to the Rapids afforded a rather
striking proof.
The river was rough and tumbly, full of boulders
and small cascades, and quick alternations in depth
which the discoloration of the water effectually con-
cealed. It was very difficult riding, as the stones were
slippery and the force of the water considerable, yet
my pony took it all without a mistake.
After some seven or eight miles of blind stumbling,
the valley widened a little and we found a track which
234
A MOUNTAIN TORRENT
Camping in the Northern Shan States
we thought would eventually join the railway. The
path was narrow, on one side being the stream, on
the other the precipitous hill-sidq, covered with jungle
and creepers and practically impenetrable.
A sudden thunderstorm broke over us, quickly
changing the mountain stream into a raging torrent,
while the rain and mud added considerably to the
difficulties of an already uncertain bridle-path. Sulman
elected that it "wasn't good enough," and tether-
ing his pony to a tree, left it for one of the men to
bring along, he himself returning on foot through
the water. I decided to ride on, as the path seemed
to be quite a possible one. I found, however, that
the already narrow track still further diminished, and
at the same time rose higher above the river, so that I
eventually found myself in the unpleasant position of
being unable to turn, while thirty feet below me was the
stream, now in high flood, and above, a mountain-side
almost too precipitous to support any growth, and quite
impossible for climbing. Indeed, I very much doubt
whether I could have dismounted at all ; as it was, in
one or two places I had to throw my " off" leg over
the saddle and sit sideways with my feet dangling over
a precipice, while my pony squeezed himself along the
face of the cliff. To my great relief, however, the path
presently descended a little and visibly widened, though
it was still most dangerous riding on account of the
mud and trickling water, which rendered it anything
but a secure foothold for a pony. Eventually I struck
the new road to the camp, still in course of construction,
235
Burma
and thought my troubles at an end ; I was rather
disconcerted, however, to find myself suddenly con-
fronted by a smooth shoulder of rock, which jutted
out from the hill-side and effectually barred my way.
A deep crack, at about the level of the path, suggested
a solution of the difficulty, as it formed a ledge of
about six inches in width, the rock above sloping away
somewhat. I dismounted and had a careful look at
the place, and deciding that it presented no greater
difficulty than one or two places already negotiated, I
succeeded in leading my pony round the buttress.
My difficulties were not over, however, for a little
farther on I discovered that recent blasting operations
had left a gap in the road of about six feet in depth,
faced by a slab of perfectly smooth rock. A ladder was
there for the use of the men, but of course this did not
aid my position with regard to the pony. We could not
get down to the river, and the only option appeared to
be to retrace our steps over the many nervous miles
we had just traversed, or for the pony to make a jump
for it on the chance of being able to keep his feet on
the broken path below. The pony did neither, but
after a considerable time of urging and coaxing, and, I
must confess, also a good deal of hard pulling at the
reins which I was only just able to hold from my
position below, the pony elected that he " would have
to come," and performed the prettiest feat I have ever
witnessed. Gathering himself together, he allowed his
fore-feet to slide over the edge of the rock and shoot
down the incline, so that he was in the position of his
236
Camping in the Northern Shan States
nose and fore-feet almost touching mine, while his hind-
feet rested on the rock six feet above. Then, slowly
shuffling his feet along until he could stretch no
farther, he slid his hind-quarters down the rock in the
same manner as he had previously done, and half an
hour later we were in camp.
Looking back on this ride I cannot but regard it as
an extraordinary feat for any animal, and one which I
should have thought was well-nigh impossible, and
going over the ground later I could only wonder that
we had got over it safely. It is a ride I never wish to
do again, and one I do not think I could have dared
had I not been under the influence of fever at the
time.
In spite of the most careful nursing on the part of
my friends, I was unable to shake off my attack of
fever, and with great reluctance I decided that any
further efforts to work here were useless, and that my
only course was to return to Mandalay.
With great forethought Sulman had sent a native
some ten or twelve miles down the stream to survey
the river, and, on his reporting " good water " all the
way, had a raft constructed to take us so far on our
journey, and thus avoid a portion of the fatiguing ride
over the hills, for which I was hardly able ; and ponies
and pack mules having been sent on to Tapang-taung,
we waved our adieux to Park and started upon a
voyage which proved to be somewhat adventurous.
The raft was as usual of bamboo, manned by two
Shans, who, armed with paddles, one at the bow and
237
Burma
the other at the stern, were able to control our move-
ments to some extent.
For a mile or two we drifted slowly down the deep
and silent river, here running between lofty hills which
screened us from any wind, and seemed to focus the
hot sun within the steaming valley. Still, the heat
notwithstanding, it was a pleasant feeling as, lying
among our baggage, we idly floated over the placid
water in which every detail of the landscape was
repeated.
Presently our speed gradually increased, and a sharp
bend in the river revealed an alarming-looking rapid
right ahead. Though the Shans were satisfied that
they could navigate it we preferred to land, and,
scrambling along the banks, over fern-clad rocks and
roots of trees strangely contorted by variations of
humidity and heat, we reached the head of the rapid
and watched them go by, and, the raft behaving well,
and the boatmen evidently having experience, we
decided in future to take any others as they came.
I had never before shot a rapid, and would not from
choice have elected to do so in so frail a craft as a
bamboo raft, yet the very element of danger gave an
added feeling of exhilaration to the operation. It was
certainly a strange sensation as we gradually gathered
way and headed for the rocks and breakers which, being
on the lower level, we could hardly yet see.
On approaching a rapid — and there were many of
them — our Shans would begin to shout and yell in
order to frighten away the water " nats " ; then through
238
RAFTING DOWN THE NAN-TU RIVER
T^"^-
•*—.>»•
Camping in the Northern Shan States
the transparent water the bottom seemed suddenly
to rise below us, as, shooting over a water glide at a
speed which the force of gravity rendered greater than
the stream itself, we entered the long reach of leaping
waves and eddies, among which we were tossed about
like driftwood.
I noticed that in almost all cases the boatmen steered
the raft directly for the largest impeding rock, the
compression of water against its surface being such as
to automatically fend us off. In the case of smaller
stones which we often touched, the raft was gently held
by the bow, while the stern quietly swung round as on
a pivot, and we went over the rapids without any jar
or damage resulting.
I am quite ready to confess to a feeling of nervous-
ness on the first two or three occasions, but with each
succeeding one the excitement grew, and we began to
anticipate them with the same pleasure as is experienced
in putting a horse at a stiff fence.
Whether the native who had " surveyed " the stream
had ever seen the river at all is open to doubt, for
practically the whole distance was an alternation of deep
pools and rapids of various degrees of viciousness.
The climax came when suddenly on a double bend we
came into the tow of one which terrified even our
boatmen. In this case the bar, instead of being more
or less athwart stream, ran at an acute angle, which
had the effect of turning the full force of water side-
ways into the right bank of the river, here composed of
huge masses of rock, against which the water boiled
239
Burma
and foamed in high curling waves which it seemed
destruction to enter. In a moment we were caught by
the current and sent spinning into the vortex, in which
our raft absolutely disappeared. Then, reappearing,
its bow shot high out of the water and through the
succeeding wave ; once it was absolutely on its edge,
and it was all we could do to hold on. So reeling and
staggering, and barely escaping collision with the rocks,
we finally emerged from this maelstrom, wet to the
neck, but fortunately without loss of life or belongings.
This was at mid-day, from which time until nightfall
we were obliged to go on without a change, and with
the prospect of saturated bedding for the night.
This encounter proved to be the last of the dangerous
ones, which was fortunate, as in the buffeting our raft
had received many of the bamboos had split, and we
were practically waterlogged. Indeed, by the time we
had reached our destination the raft was barely above
water at all.
At Leone we picked up our ponies, and after a
steep climb of 1500 feet up a rough kind of stair-
case cut in the rocks, we entered the forest, and at
sunset started by an unknown track to find our way to
Myoung-young, where we intended to spend the night.
Quite dark, and with nothing to guide us, it was
marvellous that we did not lose our way, but guided by
some instinct we managed to keep our direction, and,
by dint of hard riding, at 8 p.m. we entered the little
setdement, and at last were able to dry ourselves and our
belongings at the huge fires which were soon ablaze.
240
Camping in the Northern Shan States
That night I was very ill, and next morning crawled
rather than rode to Ta-ti. Here I got rapidly worse,
and by evening my temperature was 104° and my heart
"all to bits," so that I dared not take phenacetin.
However, by constant sponging with cold water and
frequent doses of brandy, Sulman pulled me through,
though he afterwards told me he never expected me to
live through the night, and was mentally debating
whether he could have me embalmed, or would be
compelled to bury me there ! Next day we got safely
to Hsipaw, where Dr. Leeds of the American Baptist
Mission kindly took charge of me, and by the time I
had reached Mandalay a day or two later, I was quite
myself again.
So ended my sojourn in the Northern Shan States,
during the whole of which time I was more or less ill.
Yet, curious as it may seem, and in spite of many
incidental drawbacks, of all the scenes of marvellous
beauty with which from time to time I had been sur-
rounded, and the interesting and pleasant episodes which
had marked my tour in Burma, none recur to my mind
with such persistence, or engender such a longing to
return, as do my solitary journey on the Lashio line
and this brief sojourn in the Nan-tu valley, the fascina-
tions of which were in both cases such as far to out-
weigh all other considerations.
241 31
CHAPTER XIII
THE BURMAN
In the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to convey
an impression of some of the principal points of interest
characteristic of a country more than usually rich in
beauty of many kinds.
I find it impossible, however, within the space of one
volume adequately to describe even a portion of the
special features which appealed to me during my tour
of the country. Undoubtedly the most pronounced
impression I received, and one forced upon me re-
peatedly while off the beaten track, is the amazing
prodigality of nature.
The country literally teems with vegetation, and
practically anything will grow there ; and, as I have
previously pointed out, it is this over-exuberance of
growth which has resulted in the elimination from the
landscape of whatever of rugged character the country
possesses, presenting in its stead that generally placid
beauty we have noticed.
Living amidst such environment and enjoying a
climate which, to say the least, does not predispose to
242
The Burman
exertion, one need hardly expect to find a great deal of
backbone or moral fibre among the people. Provided
by nature with most of their requirements, or at least
with the minimum of exertion on their part, the spur
of necessity is absent and good-natured self-content
results.
Naturally perhaps their thoughts are directed largely
to amusement and personal adornment, and one is forced
to the conclusion that there is something peculiarly
fitting in the adoption of the peacock as their national
emblem by a people who modestly entitle the king's
throne at Mandalay "the centre of the universe."
Conceit and good-nature are perhaps their two most
striking characteristics. Even to-day, nearly twenty
years after the deposition of Thebaw, it is difllicult to
persuade the most intelligent Burman that any power
has been able to overcome the prowess of his country
and remove the king from his high position. The
majority seem to believe that Thebaw will reappear
one day to resume control of aflfairs now temporarily
administered by white " thakins."
One cannot but regret the introduction of our
strenuous Western life into this Arcadia, and, as a
matter of fact, our occupation at Burma had practically
destroyed a nation. Even after Thebaw's deposition
the Burmese fought long and ably, but with the final
subjugation of Upper Burma the native went to the
wall. Placidly accepting the position, he appears to be
quite content that we should administer the country
so long as he is left in full enjoyment of his gay
243
Burma
clothing and sporting events. Meanwhile other races,
notably Chinese, Japanese, and Indian merchants, have
not been slow to take advantage of the new order of
things and profit by the increased trade consequent
upon a more stable government. The result has been
the gradual ousting of the male Burman from all
employment, while his own easy-going nature limits
enterprise on his own part.
The women, on the other hand, have great business
capabilities, and conduct most of the internal trade of
the country. Despising the indolence of the men, it
has become an ever-increasing habit with them to mate
with the more energetic males of other countries, and
there is springing up a new race in which Burmese
characteristics are fast disappearing. An example of
the independent position occupied by women in Burma
was afforded during a trial in the High Court of
Rangoon. A woman who was giving evidence was
asked by the judge what she did. " Me keep stall in
bazaar." " But where is your husband .'' " " He stayed
t'ome and minded the children."
Personal adornment, though a weakness, is happy in
its results, for the Burmese crowd is perhaps the gayest
in the world ; and it is worth notice that the fabrics
they wear are good, and, though the women are often
over -bedecked with jewellery, they never wear any
but good stones, paste and imitations being unknown
among them.
Like their clothing, many idioms of the language
are extremely poetic. Take, for example, the Burmese
244
BEAUTY AND THE BEAST
The Burman
ideas of time ! The times of day are thus described :
" One crow of cock," " Two crows of cock," " Three
crows of cock," "Dawn great force," "When the sun
is one palm-tree high," " The hour when the hpungyis
beg " (9 A.M.), etc. The evening hours are no less
picturesque, as for instance, " The time when children
lay down their heads," " The time when old men lay
down their heads," " The time when feet become silent,"
" The time when young men go courting " (8 to 9 p.m.),
"The return of the young lads" (10 p.m.), when, I am
told, begins the courting proper !
Similarly, the names they give their daughters are
generally pretty. For instance : Ma Sein (Miss
Diamond), Ma San-hla (Miss Pretty Hair), Ma Pan-
byu (Miss White Flower), Ma Ma-gale (Miss Little
Mother), etc., etc. ; while periods of time are denoted
by such terms as " A betel chew," " A pot boil," or
" The passing of a train."
Though not essentially a brave race, the Burman
has plenty of moral courage of a sort, and apparently
an indifference to pain, whether in himself or others.
This story will illustrate this attitude. Two Burmans
attending a pwe, instead of confining themselves to
their native "toddy," procured a bottle of gin and
became very drunk. With the valour of liquor upon
them, they vowed to " go for " the first thing they
met on the road. This happened to be a pi dog, which
eluded them in the dark. ** Never mind," they said,
" we will take the next." The next happened to be
an old woman, whom they promptly cut to bits with
245
Burma
their dahs. On being accused they replied, " Oh yes,
we did it, we said we would, so we had to," and with
the most complete unconcern they submitted to the
beheading which followed. A Burman will go to
execution without flinching, but will often run away
and leave his wife and children unprotected if attacked.
Dacoits also, though occasionally showing extreme
bravery, are much the same, and it is usually a question
of which will run first should serious resistance be
offered.
Thanks to a very complete and vigilant police
system, dacoity seems to be on the wane in Burma,
though naturally isolated cases of robbery and violence
occur here as in other countries. Considerable in-
genuity is often applied to the conduct of a theft, an
amusing instance of which came under my notice at
Pyinmana. Several men armed with long poles, at
the ends of which were tied the prickly leaves of the
cactus, lined up alongside the railway and awaited the
arrival of the train from Mandalay. As the train
passed all shouted, the consequence being that every
one in the train put out their head to see what was
the matter, whereupon the thieves quickly hooked off
all the silk turbans with their " fishing rods " ! Shrieks
of laughter from the thieves greeted the speechless
indignation of the sufferers, who, with many a scratched
face, were carried helplessly away in the disappearing
train. Bribery also is not unknown in Burma, and 1
was rather tickled on one occasion in the forest when,
replying to a facetious remark on my part, a native
246
PYA-SHIKOh" (from a BURMESE PAINTINg)
The Burman
looked up and said, " If master will take I will
offer."
Like their prototypes in Ireland the Burmans are
fond of sport in all its branches, no business being of
sufficient importance to interfere with a cock fight or
a pony race, and relatively large sums are wagered on
these events. So keen are they that in their bullock-
gharry races partisans will mow down the grass and
remove stones and other obstructions which may possibly
come in the way of the wheels of the gharry they are
supporting, and from infants to old men all display
the wildest excitement during the progress of such
events.
This predilection for sport was rather well exemplified
a short time ago at Pegu. The bund broke, letting
in the river which inundated the whole surrounding
district, only the roofs of the houses appearing above
water. Cattle were swimming about and finding refuge
on any eminence available, poultry and other farm
stock scrambling up the roofs or drowning in the
stream. One Burman, whose house was flooded and
his wife, dry but disconsolate, seated on the roof,
concerned himself little about wife or struggling live
stock, but considering this a heaven-sent opportunity,
was seen vigorously paddling about in a canoe, training
for a coming race !
Cleanly and simple in their habits, the Burmans
live almost entirely upon rice, drinking little else but
water, though they chew an enormous quantity of betel
nut, which is a good stomachic, but has the effect
247
Burma
of blackening the teeth and imparting a curious
vermilion tint to lips and tongue. From one day
old infants are fed on rice, a small bowl of this and
another of water being measured out for them at
meals, the amount of each increasing as the child
grows. The rice, however, is not cooked dry as in
India, but the water being left with it it is soft and
glutinous, and is first chewed up by the women before
being given to the infant, together with a few drops of
water with which to wash it down.
Forbidden by their religion to take life, meat seldom
forms part of their diet, and to such an extreme is this
principle carried that they sometimes even decline to
milk their cows, who become dry in consequence.
Fish, however, is constantly used, and in the bazaars,
where meat is offered for sale by Indians and people of
other religions, the Burmans do not scruple to buy and
consume it.
There is no division of class in Burma. In the
king's time any one might become a prince, and the
office of prime minister or any other high position be
attained by people of the lowest rank.
Theoretically all are equal, the holding of office
alone marking a social grade. A good instance of this
was given me by the captain of one of my steamers,
who on one occasion, long ago, had been invited by the
Lord High Admiral of the Burmese fleet to attend the
ceremony of his daughter's " ear-boring," when a large
company had assembled to drink warm lemonade and
smoke Burmese cheroots as from the Admiral's box they
248
" DOMESTIC FELICITY " (fROM A BURMESE PAINTINg)
The Burman
witnessed the pwe which followed. It was altogether
a great festival, and attended by all the ceremony and
pomp due to the position of his host, who at that time
had power of life or death over every man in the navy.
Some weeks later he again saw him, but in the interim
he had been degraded, and was now paddling about in
a dug-out canoe, cutting and selling kaing grass to the
king's elephant-keepers ! It was a descent from the
palace to the hut, from robes of office to the simple
loin-cloth, yet he was the same dignified gentleman he
had been before, and though perhaps not so corpulent
as of yore, was still smiling and apparently contented
with his lot.
The Burmans have few modes of expression in Art.
I am not aware of any great literary work having been
produced by them, and their music is primitive if
pleasing, while — owing, no doubt, to the temporary
nature of their homes, due to constantly changing sites —
pictorial art is practically non-existent. Such pictures
as I have seen are the archaic frescoes on temple walls
and vaults, and the distemper paintings used in the
embellishment of " tan-yin " or kyaungs. As I have
mentioned, these are sometimes good of their kind, and I
reproduce two which were painted for me by Saya-Myo,
probably the best artist in Mandalay, and which may be
taken as excellent examples of pictorial art in Burma.
On the other hand, their silk fabrics are very beauti-
ful, and their silver-work quite the finest in the world.^
1 An authoritative monograph upon this subject has been published by-
Mr. H. L. Tilly, Collector of Customs, Rangoon.
249 32
Burma
This art, however, is only practised in a few centres,
such as Rangoon, Mandalay, and Thayetmyo, and is
characterised by the exquisite modelHng and extra-
ordinarily high relief of the figures or foliage with
which they embellish bowls and vases in themselves
beautiful in form.
It is in their religious buildings, however, that we
recognise the chief expression of their art sense, where,
influenced by their environment and imitating the
exuberance of nature, they are elaborate in design
and lavish in their decoration. Their plaster-work is
excellent, and teak carving almost unique. They are
fond of introducing human and animal forms into their
carvings, from life-sized figures of dancing men and
women to the innumerable little effigies of beloos,
nats, and other supernatural forms which decorate the
eaves and cornices of the kyaungs. In the pagodas,
guarded by griffins which have always a highly
decorative feeling, a common form I noticed was that
of the peacock perched upon a crocodile, no doubt
emblematical of the triumph of beauty over what is
vile, in which perhaps is also implied a religious
parallel.
I remember that on landing at Rangoon a friend
remarked to me that I would soon "become sick ot
pagodas," and certainly the great number one sees on
the Irrawaddy and throughout the country generally
almost justifies such a remark, every point of vantage
apparently being utilised by the Burman upon which
to build his temple. It must be acknowledged that
250
ENTRANCE TO THE KUTHODAU MANDALAY
The Burman
they add considerably to the beauty of the landscape,
but apart from any pictorial value they may possess, I
must say that, far from becoming tired of this con-
tinuous succession of temples, I found my interest
grow rather than diminish upon fuller acquaintance.
At first sight one temple or pagoda is much like
another, and it is a graceful object at that, but on
comparing the various periods and styles, what a
difference is noticeable ! All more or less conform to
the graceful zedi form of design, yet no two are alike.
The plinths are sometimes square, again octagonal or
polygonal, receding in successive stages — each differently
ornamented — to the base of the dome. This again is
built in stages, each representing in conventional form
some familiar object, such as the rice bowl, the twisted
turban, a plantain bud, etc, until the finial is reached,
itself almost always enriched with ornament of in-
dividual character, and surmounted by the gilt " ti,"
which is hardly ever the same in two pagodas. A
comparison between the Shwe Dagon in Rangoon, the
Shwe-Tsan-Dau at Prome, and the unique bell pagoda
at Bhamo will soon demonstrate this. Further, the
treatment of the panels, which often lend interest to the
plinth, the guardian leogryphs and votive vases, the
emblematical tree rising from its architectural base,
and the hundred odd architectural and artistic adjuncts
which combine in forming any given pagoda are all
as distinctive as are the different types of humanity.
Moreover, each is beautiful, and far from being *' sick
of pagodas," my only regret is that I had not sufficient
251
Burma
time at my disposal more fully to study and analyse
the undoubted charm each possesses. When to all this
is added the effect of gilding in one case, and the
subduing influence of age and weather in another,
combined with an infinite variety of environment, the
pagoda can never become monotonous, particularly when
seen as principal object in a landscape of tropical rich-
ness, whose beauties are reflected in one of the noblest
rivers in the world, and bathed in an atmosphere which
lends an enchantment to the whole.
The number and richness of these pagodas suggest
another thought, — that the religion of the Burman is
active and living, and though many of these buildings
are the tangible expression of the piety of past genera-
tions, new pagodas and kyaungs are constantly spring-
ing up, while many existing shrines are annually being
added to and enriched by devotees of the present day.
Indeed, herein lies a danger. In the Shwe Dagon
pagoda in Rangoon the religious enthusiasm of the
pious has led to structural additions which have
seriously impaired the beauty of the building, and the
same thing is occurring in other places. It seems to
me a pity that such acts of vandalism are not controlled,
and I would very much like to see the institution in
Burma of a department for the preservation of native
monuments such as exists in Egypt,^ in whose hands
would rest the restoration and protection of the best
' Since writing the above I hear that a Bill for the preservation of objects
of archaeological and artistic interest was announced in the Gazette of India
of March 5, 1904 (part v. p. 60), but it could hardly have become effective
while I was in the country.
252
PORTICO OF THE QUEEN S GOLDEN MONASTERY-
MANDALAY
^■^=j^^^H
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The Burman
examples of native art, and whose duty it would be to
guide the enthusiasm of present-day devotees into
channels of usefulness, and prevent the addition of
incongruous excrescences to buildings which are not
only historic but architecturally complete.
It is not only in the building of pagodas or kyaungs
that the Burman expresses his religious instinct. Every
male Burman passes at least a small period of his life
as an inmate of a monastery, and the practice of and
belief in his faith is universal and evidently sincere;
and there can be no doubt, I think, that to the influence
of Buddhism is due much that is lovable in the character
of the people, as well as the creation of an art at once
beautiful and distinctive.
They are affectionate to their offspring, and show
unbounded respect to their parents, while the unfettered
freedom enjoyed by their women places the Burmese
far above the generality of Eastern races. And even if
the Burman is somewhat indolent and conceited, his
indolence is largely that of the gentleman of leisure,
while so much of grace and beauty envelops the conceit
that we readily forgive it.
All in all, the Burmese are a people infinitely
attractive, and when to-day so large a proportion of
mankind is given up to ideas altogether material and
utilitarian, it is surely something for which to be thank-
ful that in Burma we can still find a country which is a
garden of wonderful beauty, and inhabited by a race
entirely in harmony with its surroundings, and who
understand what is meant by the "joy of living."
253
Appendix
It may be of use to any intending visitors if I add a few notes
of information not specifically given in the preceding chapters.
Burma may be reached by many routes, most of which,
however, entail transhipment and a certain amount of detention,
either at Calcutta or Colombo, as the case may be. The best
method, in my opinion, is to travel by either of the two direct
lines to Rangoon. These are the P. Henderson and Co.'s Line,
sailing [via the Canal) from Glasgow and Liverpool, and pro-
ceeding to Rangoon without intermediate ports of call j and
the Bibby Line, also from Liverpool, but calling at Marseilles
and Colombo en route. The steamers of both lines are large
and extremely comfortable, and give the maximum of cabin and
deck space, and in all respects are, I think, to be recommended.
By travelling per direct steamer the passenger is not only saved
the vexation of a transhipment, but is afforded the opportunity
of making acquaintance, if not friendships, with returning
Anglo-Burmans, a privilege hardly to be over-estimated, and
which may well prove of the greatest assistance to them while
in the country.
Should any lengthened stay in Burma be ^intended, the first
necessity of the traveller is a good English-speaking servant,
without whom travelling is difiicult, or, at any rate, uncomfort-
able. For this reliance must be placed upon one's friends, or,
failing any acquaintance in Rangoon, Messrs. Thos. Cook and
255
Burma
Son's agent would, I have no doubt, assist the visitor in this,
as in any other respect upon which his advice might be sought.
In Rangoon the Strand Hotel is comfortable, and in Mandalay
the Salween is, I think, the only one, and provides good accom-
modation. Elsewhere in the country travellers must rely upon
the frequent dak bungalows, which are always clean, and by the
aid of a good servant may be made quite comfortable. There is
a nominal charge for the use of the bungalows, and in all cases
utensils and provisions must be brought by the traveller himself.
The river trip is splendidly organised, and everything may
be left to the Flotilla Company, whose charges are as moderate
as their accommodation is good.
The Burma Railways also cater well for their passengers,
who may often have to sleep in the train, and at all the station
buffets excellent luncheons and dinners are provided. So much
is this the case that, in several places, men employed in work
in the district prefer to dine at the station rather than at home.
This was not always the case, however, but is the result of the
energy of the present agent, whose " surprise " visits to the
different restaurants have effected a marked improvement in
the catering.
During the winter months the climate of Burma is pleasant,
though hot, and no one need have any hesitation about visiting
the country, either on this account or through fear of its reptile
or animal life. Personally, I met with both snakes and wild
beasts, and had a fair experience of fever ; but it must be
remembered that I travelled considerably off the beaten track,
often in districts known to be unhealthy, while the necessity
under which I was of working all day and every day predisposed
me to illness, and was subjecting the climate to perhaps an
unfair test.
At the same time certain precautions are necessary, and the
visitor would be well to model his own upon the habits of his
fellow-countrymen in Burma. Over-fatigue and exposure to
256
Appendix
the mid-day sun are to be avoided, and, excepting in the early
morning and the cool of the evening, a solar topee is imperative.
A very good helmet can be bought at Port Said for a few
shiUings, the best pattern being a wide, quilted one of khaki,
which, if ugly, is I think the most serviceable. Silk suits, also,
are essential, and may be procured in Rangoon, together with
any light articles of clothing with which a visitor may have
neglected to provide himself.
Expeditions into the forest and jungle can only be arranged
through friends on the spot ; but should such opportunities
arise, certain stores and equipment will be necessary. Though
Peer Mahomet and Company in Mandalay supply excellent
goods, I incline to the purchase of everything necessary in
Rangoon. Provisions and all other tinned stores can best be
obtained from Barnett Brothers in Fytche Square, who also stock
the excellent X pattern of beds, chairs, etc., which I found to be
light, compact, rigid, and comfortable. Bedding (of which the
traveller requires an ample supply), light suits, mosquito nets,
etc., I purchased from Rowe and Company, also in Fytche
Square, and I can thoroughly recommend both these firms.
A riding suit of hard, light material will be required for a
forest journey, and I found putties preferable to leggings ; not
only are they more comfortable to wear, but they also keep out
ants and leeches, or other small insects, which are often a source
of annoyance.
Boots for jungle wear should be strong and well nailed, as
walking, when it occurs, is heavy and often slippery ; and in
camp, after a hard day's march, a comfortable pair of slippers is
a luxury.
As I did not indulge in any form of sport while in Burma,
I can offer no advice with regard to battery. I do, however,
strongly recommend any one who may think of making a forest
journey to include an entomological outfit in his kit ; the result
would, I feel sure, amply repay any trouble entailed.
257 33
Burma
Lastly, a certain supply of medicines should be provided.
I carried with me nothing but quinine, which was a mistake
for which I paid the penalty. As a preventative of fever quinine
is invaluable, but it is useless as a cure. Some form of anti-
febrin is very desirable, and, as constitutions differ, I would
recommend a visitor to provide himself with a small stock of
medicines, in tabloid or pilule form so far as possible, selected
under the direction of his own medical adviser ; though with
reasonable care on his own part, and having regard to the
peculiar conditions under which he may at any time be living,
their aid need never be invoked.
258
Index
Alien races, 6, 157, 165, 228
Amarapura, 142, 164
Ananda temple, 174
Animals, 8
treatment of, 51
Ant hills, 90
Arracan pagoda, 142, 164, 196
Ava, 146, 197
Bamboo forest, 95
giant, 103
Banyan, 91, 223
Barges, 135
Bassein creek, 1 1 8
Bathing, 137
Bells, casting, 29
cattle, 46
elephant, 97
large, 15, 33, 152
Bhamo, 133, 147, 192
Birds, 27, 48, 74
Bu pagoda, 143, 175
Buddha. See Gaudama
Bullock gharries, 136
Bungalows, 19
Burmese adornment, 244
amusements, 54, 169, 187
architecture, 250
boats, 3, 119, 123
bow, 105
carts, 70, 109
character, 243
costume, 17, 30
dishes, 58
food, 248
houses, 42, 54
markets, 57
Burmese music, 65
names, 245
paintings, 249
plays, 63
ponies, 51, 234
servants, 50
silk, 61, 249
silver, 249
social distinctions, 248
sport, 247
village, 42
Children's games, 54, 169
Chindwin river, 144
Chinese, 6, 34, 157, 192, 228
boats, 119
houses, 34
temples, 35
Chinlon game, 187
Chins, 100
Cold, 98
Corrugated iron, 157
Cotton-tree, 89, 92
Creepers, 89, 91
Cremation, 166
Cutch-tree, 47
Dacoits, 47
Dacoity, 123, 246
Dak bungalow, 43
Dalhousie Park, 24
Dedaye, 119
Defile, 149, 151
Delanchoon, 10 1
Dew, 88, 98
Donabyu, 124
259
Burma
Elephants, 71, -jj, 84
bells, 97
drivers, 86
travellers, 86
wild, 102
working, 85
Fever, loi, 215, 237
Ficus, 91
Fish, 129, 207
Fishing, 128, 208
Fogs, 40, 139, 149, 203, 218
Football, 191
Forest, 73
creeks, 82
fires, 152, 219
graves, 90
growths, 89, 92, 94, 198, 219, 231
roads, 94, 109, 222
sounds, 90
tai, 96
Game (wild), 41, 74, 98
Gaudama, 15, 31, 164, 165, 175
Hill, 127
Gharries, bullock, 136
tikka, 9
Goekteik gorge, 198
Gongs, 45
Great Eastern Mines, 218, 228, 233
Gymkhana Club, 25
Henzada, 125
Hilsa, 129
Hlai-bindoung, 96
Hpungyt, 59, 158
-byan, 166
presents, 168
Hsipaw, 205, 218, 241
Insects, 26, 89, 121
Irrawaddy, 2, 40, 117
delta, 118
fish, 129
navigation, 134
stations, 131, 136
steamers, 117
Jungle, 69, 215
food, 79, 202
scrulj, 46
Kachins, 230
Kalouk, 97
Katha, 147
Kaung-Hmu-Dau pagoda, 144
Kokogon, 71, 76
Kyet-thoung-doung, 106, 109
Kyouk-mee-choung, 77
Lacquer work, 180, 186
Lashio, 195, 207
Laung-zat, 40, 120
Leogryphs, 16
Lewe, 112
Mandalay, 104, 14c, 146, icc
Club, 161
fort, 159
hill, 164
palace, 160
Man-pwe, 210
Falls, 210, 214
Man-sam, 223
Maubin, 121
May-mu, 198
Meegyoungyai, 41
Min-byin, 103
river, 104
Mingun, 152
Monastery, 45
Queen's Golden, 163
Mosquitoes, 121
Mu river, 144
Music, 65
Myanaung, 126
Myit-ng6 river, 207
Myoung-young, 226, 240
Nan-tu river, 224, 227
Nats, 70
-sin, 90
NautcA, 206
Ngapi, 122, 129, 186
Nyaung-u, 143, 172, 179
fire at, 181
Orchids, 89, 92, 216
Otters, 207, 216
Pack animals, 224
Paddy, 119
harvesting, 71
Pagan, 139, 142, 172
260
Ind
ex
Pagan -ng6, 139
Pagodas, 141
Amanda (Pagan), 174
Arracan (Amarapura), 142, 164
Bu (Pagan), 175
Incomparable (Mandalay), 163
Kaung-Hmu-Daw (Sagaing), 144
Kuthodau (Mandalay), 163
Mingun, 152
Shwe Dagon (Rangoon), 3, 8, 11, 142,
252
Shwe-Tsan-Daw (Prome), 39, 188
Shwe Zigon (Pagan), 143, 175, 177
Sula-muni (Pagan), 174
Sulay (Rangoon), 7
That-pin-yu (Pagan), 174
Peacocks, 95
Plays, 63
Pone, 83
Pongy't. See Hpungyi
Popa, 139, 143
Prome, 39, 129, 133, 184
pagoda, 39, 188
Pyask'tkoh, 45
Pyingado, 80
Pyinmana, 1 1 3
Pive, 63
Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay,
163
Rafts, 6, 41, 138, 237
Rangoon, 3, 5
river, 3, 122
Rapids, 238
the, 227
Religion, 252
Rice. See Paddy
River fogs. See Fogs
Roads, 49, 69, 71, 94, 107, 222
Sagaing, 142, 143, 144
Salween river, 49
Sathwa, 66
Shans, 204
States, 195
-til&k, 205
Shikoh, 21, 72
Shwe Dagon Pagoda, 3, 8, 11, 142, 252
Bazaar, 13
Shwegu, 149
Shwe-Tsan-Daw pagoda, 39, 188
Zigon pagoda, 143, 175, 177
Silk, 61
84, 108, 109, 226
Sittang river, 48
Snakes, 27, 57, 83
Steamers, 117
barges, 135
cargo, 130
Sterne river, 227
Stockades, 43
Sulay pagoda, 7
Ta't, 96
Tai-ping river, 193
Tanks (sacred), 30, 166, 186
Ta-Ti, 224, 241
Tattooing, 50, 100, 216
Tat-yin, 167
Taungdwingyi, 39, 49, 53
jail, 55
market, 57
Teak-cutting, 80
Temperatures, 4, 23, 203, 234
Thabeikkyin, 152
Thayetmyo, 41, 138, 190
Thityahgouk, 48
Tiika gharry, 9
Travelling car, 203
Victoria Lake, Rangoon, 24
Wingaba, 29
Yandoon, 122
Yomas, 46, 48
Arracan, 44, 127
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125 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR AND TINT OF WHISTLER OIL-COLOURS, WATER-COLOURS, PASTELS,
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16 EXAMPLES OF THE MASTER'S WORK, RKPRODUCED IN COLOUR FACSIMILE BY A SPECIAL PROCESS
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16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
SIMON HARMON VEDDER
BY ASCOTT R. HOPE
THE
ADVENTURES OF PUNCH
12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
STEPHEN BAGHOT DE LA BERE
ANIMAL AUTOBIOGRAPHIES
THE BLACK BEAR.
BY H. PERRY ROBINSON
BY VIOLET HUNT
BY G. E. MITTON
BY G. M. A. HEWETT
Others in preparation
EACH CONTAINING 12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN
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THE CAT.
THE DOG.
THE RAT.
TRAN-SLATED AND ABRIDGED BY DOMINICK DALY
THE ADVENTURES OF
DON QUIXOTE
12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
STEPHEN BA(JHOT DE LA BERE
GULLIVER'S TRAVELS
16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
STEPHEN BAGHOT DE LA BERE
BY JOHN BUNY.\N
THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS
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GERTRUDE DEMAIN HAMMOND, R.I.
BY P. G. WODEHOUSE
WILLIAM TELL TOLD
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16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BV
PHILIP DADD
BY G. E. MITTON
CHILDREN'S BOOK OF
LONDON
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JOHN WILLIAMSON
BY THE REV. R. C. GILLIE
THE STORY OF STORIES
32 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
BY THE REV. R. C, GILLIE
THE KINSFOLK AND
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16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR AND SEPIA
BY HARRIET BEECHER STOWE
UNCLE TOM'S CABIN
8 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTR.\TIONS IN COLOUR, AND
MANY OTHERS IN THE TEXT
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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, LOS ANGELES
COLLEGE LIBRARY
This book is due on the last date stamped below.
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